Question about Refrigerators
Ice and water were working perfectly before we shut off the water. Now all we get is a "hum" when depressing the water " paddle" ( what is that part called anyway?)
First, replace the filter. Sounds like the water may not be getting past there.
Posted on Nov 07, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Ok, I show parts that are available for that model, sounds like the control board is defective for your dispenser, or possibly the Ice maker control board. It also could be a break in the wiring or the control itself. Below is a break down for those parts, wiring and the control behind the push to dispense ice or water. Hope it is not that control because some places don't provide that part. Now if it's a connection problem that we can find, I will do mu best to help you solve this.Could you insure the model number is correct as this is very important? firstname.lastname@example.org
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
HI. In most cases, this will be the result of a failed inlet valve. There are some other causes, as well. I would suggest to inspect the water lines for freeze over, and obstructions, as well. Normally, the inside lines will freeze over, thus, producing ice within the lines, this will obstruct the flow. Another issue will be the filter. Once this device reaches its filtering limit, it will shut down, thus, preventing the flow to the dispenser/ice-maker assembly. Once you have ruled out these more common issues, Move on to the procedure below for the inlet inspection.
The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.
The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors
Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).
Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
Posted on Dec 08, 2009
The problem could be with the icemaker itself or with one of the controls that supplies power to the icemaker. It could also be a temperature problem. If the freezer temperature gets above 10 degrees, it won't cycle. You can check the temperature by placing a thermometer between some packages. Air temperature is not a good check. For more specific information, a complete model number will be needed.
Posted on Jan 21, 2011
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