Question about GE Profile 30" Built-In Double Electric Wall Oven - Black-on-Black

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GE Profile oven does not heat on either broil or bake elements after self clean display is ok

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  • GE Master
  • 9,472 Answers

What is the model number of the unit?

Posted on Nov 08, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: self-clean not cleaning

I was wrong (I think).  the baking element probably was burnt out as the repairman said.  He replaced it and I thought selfclean still wasn't working.  In fact, I think I just had to give the self-clean function more time.  Also, I was judging by smell.  We have become used to a bad odor during self clean which was missing when it was broken and still missing after the repair.  Bottom line, the oven was clean after the baking element was replaced, sans smell.

Posted on Apr 22, 2008

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP56 double oven controls OK top OK bottom no heat

have you inserted the business card as described in the solutions?

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

  • 157 Answers

SOURCE: No heat after cleaning cycle.

set clock

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile JTP85 (installed 1998). The lower heat

Hi,


If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right, then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly

heatman101


..............

Posted on Dec 13, 2010

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1 Answer

My top oven won't reach temperature. Convection and broil work, bake doesn't. Over a year ago I did a self clean...hasn't worked since. I really need it to work especially with Thanksgiving next week.


It does sound like the element may be bad. The control will cycle the bake and broil elements to even the heat in the oven. if the element is out the oven won't heat well.

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I think your ignition does not work.
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My oven will not heat up to temperature


It may be the bake element that has gone out. The self clean usually uses the broil element to heat the oven. And most oven will either put 120 volts to the broil element while baking or pulse the broil element while baking. This will cause the oven to get warm but not hot. Check the oven bake element it cound be bad or a wire may have burned off.

Feb 14, 2014 | Ovens

1 Answer

My bottom oven ( non-confection) will not go on-it will just sat 100 degrees but won't get warm or hot. Top seems to be working fine. This started after I tried to use the self cleaning feature.


If broil and bake do not work on your bottom oven, it is probably your lower thermistor or control board. If the bake works but broil doesn't or broil works and bake doesn't, it is very likely your heating element. With an ohmmeter, the heating elements should be about 40 ohms. Much higher or lower signals a problem. If you suspect the control board is the problem, they can be repaired quickly and reliably at www.fixyourboard.com

Oct 11, 2010 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

2 Answers

Bottom oven doesn't heat after running self-clean cycle


Usually, when an oven won't heat, it's because the bake element is burned out. The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.

Aug 17, 2009 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

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GE JTP56 double oven controls OK top OK bottom no heat


have you inserted the business card as described in the solutions?

Jun 26, 2009 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

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Ge wall oven will not heat up on bake,boil or clean cycle


GE JKP86BF3BB COMBO MICRO/ELECT OVEN

NO HEAT ON BROIL OR BAKE ELEMENTS

CKD WIRING FROM PANEL OK
CKD TERMINALS AT ELEMENT HAVE 120V ON EACH ELMT
FAN COMES ON
THE ON INDICATOR SHOWS WHEN TMP &START PUSHED
MICROWAVE WORKS FINE
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Mar 16, 2009 | GE JTP15 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Err on display when I try to set the bake temperature


Usually, when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake element is burned out. The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.
or try doing this
1. Turn the clock selector knob to OFF
2. “Tweak” the oven control by turning the clock selector knob slightly to the left (counter clockwise). This may stop the flashing message/beeping and clear the display window.

Nov 12, 2008 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Self-clean not cleaning


I was wrong (I think).  the baking element probably was burnt out as the repairman said.  He replaced it and I thought selfclean still wasn't working.  In fact, I think I just had to give the self-clean function more time.  Also, I was judging by smell.  We have become used to a bad odor during self clean which was missing when it was broken and still missing after the repair.  Bottom line, the oven was clean after the baking element was replaced, sans smell.

Apr 19, 2008 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

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