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That's what I thought was wrong with mine to I had 1.75 in change and a piece of a wash clothe in the screen. I toke all that out and it still leaked. Took it apart further and found a piece of the weight that is made out of cement broke of and rubbed through the drum. That sounds like junk to me!!!
since a needle broke, & a new needle was put in, was the needle inserted correctly, normally flat side to the back of the machine, & pushed all the way into the needle holder rethread the machine top & bobbin make sure the bobbin is inserted correctly into the bobbin case. if none of these suggestions help, then it's possible that when the needle broke it could have caused the machine to jump time & would have to be checked at a sewing machine shop
You have a bad fan and your probably blew the high-limit in the back of the unit. If this is a built in oven, it's not an extremely simple fix. If it's a stand alone range, you probably broke a heating element during the clean. If its gas, you would have a bad ignitor.
If it is not practical to glue the base back together with metal-filled epoxy (e. g., J-B Weld), then consider whether you can adapt the hardware to a custom wood base. If you are not comfortable with your woodworking skills, any cabinet shop could probably make a base for you. Be sure to include space for the base weight in the bottom of the wood plate, and specify that it must be capable of supporting the set. (The entire weight of the set including the original stand is 50.7 pounds; subtract the weight of the stand to find the minimum support capacity.) If the vertical arm broke, it may be better to replace it with steel or aluminum channel or tubing.
If the original stand mount scheme is not amenable to a hardwood base, you can build a stand to use the wall mount holes in the back. Be sure to offset the base weight forward enough so the weight of the mounting bracket doesn't tend to tip the set backwards.
Nope! Leave side panels alone. There are three screws under the front lip (ones that hold the top) and several up the sides of the panel with the faders and the LOWER row of screws on the narrow piece that bends down from the panel with the sliders. Be careful as there are two cables between the top and the lower stuff. One goes to the power supply and the othe goes to a connector under the cover of the power amp module. If you don't have a way to support the top panel while working on the fan you will have to disconnect thosee connectors and they put goo on them which if not careful can break them.
Please be aware that the fan is this is throttled based on temperature sensors on heat sink. Also if the bearings are bad you best replace with exactly the sme model as it has to work with the temp sensors. They have strips that are threaded to act as nuts for the fan mounting. The fan almost doesn't run till you start pushing power... since there are electronics that control the fan, make sure the fan is the cause of inoperation. If the fan is seized up, then replace it.