Question about Kenmore 24622 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I am down to the attachment with the 4 small cylinders that act as a brake in one direction--after removing them I see no bolt holding the agitator to the spindle. This unit makes an excessive amount of noise and vibration when spinning as if the spindle or something to do with the rotation is loose.

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  • bill lewis Nov 06, 2012

    Apparently the small cylinders are the dogs (doggers)--never saw any that looked like these---they are plastic and bounce around in the slots quite a bit with the vibration of the spindle. For C> Caldwell---pressing down on the agitator during the wash cycle did not produce any thing abnormal.

  • bill lewis Nov 08, 2012

    No one answered my question at this site but I found a number of videos on "You Tube" that detailed putting a rope or small cord under the entire agitator and yanking the it out---no nut holding the agitator to the spindle. The agitator and the spin cycle both work, but in spin cycle the assembly seems to be off center, as the wobble and vibration during spin is unacceptable.

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 9,472 Answers

It will pull straight up with a rope or a belt underneath the agitator.

Posted on Nov 09, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 156 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore top loader washer noisey agitator

the gear case bad if it spining makeing a loud noise and makeing a bad ratching noise in spin cycle

Posted on Mar 03, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: top load kenmore washer

Your problem could be a bad gear case assembly (transmission), bad clutch, or a bad motor coupling. The easiest to diagnose and repair is the motor coupling (it's also the least expensive). All, however, will require access to the inside of the machine. This can be accomplished by: FIRST, UNPLUGGING THE MACHINE 1. Remove the console. Depending in the model you have, the console can be removed by removing the two end caps by placing a flat screwdriver in a groove on the top rear and gently lifting up. The end caps should pop off, exposing a philips screw under each one. Remove the screws and the console should lift up and back. If the end caps are not removable, then you need to place a putty knife under the front corner on either side of the console to release the retaining clips holding it on. Once the clips are released the console should lift off. 2. Disconnect the lid switch connector (white plastic plug with three wires going to it). 3. Remove the two brass-colored clips under the console. These hold the case to the washer frame. Once removed, the case should come off. 4. Lift the washer lid and place one hand under the front rim. Lifting the back up first, pull the case towards you and slide off the frame. 5. Check the floor under the wash tub area, first. If you notice any pools, or dripping of oil, then your gear case is probably shot. Once they start to leak, they should be replaced. 6. Now, you will see a small plastic (white or gray) pump with two hoses coming from it. This is the drain pump. DO NOT take the hoses off. Remove the two retaining clips with a flat screwdriver. Remember how they go back on. There will be a keyed slot on the top and bottom that they must go back in. Leave the hoses attached, remove the pump from the drive motor shaft and push aside. 7. The driver motor is attached in the same manner as the drain pump. Except, the drive motor clips usually have screws holding them in place and are a bit larger. In addition, you will need to remove the wire harness connector. Be careful when removing the retaining clips as the drive motor is heavy. Behind the motor is the motor coupling. 8. The motor coupling consists of two plastic triangular shaped pieces with three forks on each one, connected by a round rubber bushing with holes in it. Typically the plastic forks break off, or the rubber bushing rips apart. Also, the center hole of the plastic pieces can round out to the point that they just spin on the shaft. The center hole should have two flat sides and should NOT be completely round. The coupling usually costs less than $10 to replace. The gear case and clutch are a little more difficult to replace and generally are for the more seasoned techs to handle. If you inspect your machine and find that the motor coupling is fine, then let me know and I'll try to give you pointers to further diagnose.

Posted on May 21, 2007

duby1990
  • 367 Answers

SOURCE: terrible noise when agitating

Your transmission has gone out. The reason the spin cycle works is because the transmission spins two different ways and you agitate way stripped the gear. Some places rebuild them. Try with your local stores maybe they can rebuild it or get you a good used one. If not you can order a new one from sears.com

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

  • 66 Answers

SOURCE: ge top loader washer agitator does not work

To check the agitator. Start the washer into wash cycle. Once started Push down on top of agitator. If it catches some times or all of the time when pushing down, then then doggets are worn, under the agitator. You`ll have to remove the agitator to see these. If by pushing down on the agitator, nothing changes, Then you probably have a transmition problem. Check this and let me know what you find.

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

  • 181 Answers

SOURCE: I think something is stuck under the washer basin I don't know how to remove agitator

on the old type you turn the centre top to unscrew it. pull up the agitator and replace the same way

Posted on May 14, 2009

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1 Answer

Replacing the rear drum brakes cylinder


remove upper shoe return springs, loosen but do not remove brake line using line wrench, remove 2 bolts holding cylinder. Have new cylinder ready to install. pull shoes back from cylinder. remove line from cylinder and pull out of housing. Replace with new cylinder, first attaching line, then bolts. reset shoes into cylinder and make sure nothing else has slipped out of place (eg, parking brake cross bar and spring). Replace return springs on post. replace drum. open bleeder valve and allow gravity bleed until all air is out or bleed manually. any questions, lemme know.

Sep 05, 2010 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Am

Tip

Washing Machine Repair Direct Drive Dyanamo's 1


Daunting as it may seem, washing machine repair, for the most part is not all that difficult. I refer mainly to the Whirlpool, Kenmore, Estate, and Crosley brands. These direct drive wonders use so few parts to get your clothes clean that they should be listed in the Guinness book of world records as Most Efficient Machine of the Decade.

Other brands use such methods as Tub suspension and Electric pumps and belts to accomplish the same task, with less positive results.

If there were a leader of the pack ratings system for Washing machine failures, the leader would most definitely be Frigidaire.
This applies to both their Washing Machines and their Dryers. What compounds this problem is the fact that most of these failures are catastrophic, expensive, and a major parts replacement headache.

Nobody wants to buy a Washer or Dryer that has an average lifespan of 6 months to 2 years, and that is what most of us end up with these days.
This isn't entirely the manufacturers fault however. In an effort to please their customers, many manufacturers try to add innovative features and advancements which make your appliance more user friendly. The competition is often tough and heated with the end result that the manufacturer is often rushed, to market a machine that competes equally with it's name brand rivals.

The case for Front Loading Washing Machines

If you own one, or have owned one in the past, I won't surprise you with the statement that these are the most problematic and troublesome machines in this field. Front Loaders are prone to leak from their silicone aprons, burn out their rear bearings, slip off of their suspension brackets and kill their own motors and brains. That's why I Dub these the Suicide Machines.

When it comes to repairing these I take the, (Why Bother) approach.
After all, I can be virtually guaranteed that whatever work I have done it will come back to haunt me, and in the long run, damage my reputation.
The customer is reluctant to blame the maker of the machine, and only too happy to insult the technician, no matter how hard he has worked to make their pride and Joy function again.

By now I hope you grasp the fact that this article will not be your saving grace for that ailing Frigidaire, or that nasty leaking front loader with the glaring FF failure light.

This article applies only to those machines that earn the right to be called true Direct Drive Washing Machines.

Now On With The Show !

Direct Drive Washing Machines consist of 4 distinct parts.
The pump, the motor, the coupling and the transmission.
All of which can be disassembled and replaced by the least educated among us with very little difficulty.
Basically, if you can change the oil and filter in your car, fill your own dishwasher or de-lime your Mr. Coffee, you have all the skills you need to fix your OWN Direct Drive Washing Machine.

Tools required

1. A standard Flathead Screw Driver (Motor and Water Pump Retention Clips)
2. Water Pump Pliers for hoses (Channel Lock Pliers will also work)
3. A 1/4 inch socket and Handle, or 1/4 inch nut driver.(Motor Nuts)
4. A 9/16 to 5/8 inch socket and 3/8 inch ratchet (Transmission)
5. A 3/8 Socket and 3/8-8 inch extension plus 3/8 ratchet (Agitator)
6. Phillips Screw Driver

Symptoms and Cures

1. Symptom: Leaking water from the front of the washer

Cure: Tighten the Water hoses(Tools #2) to your machine or Replace your water pump (Tools, #1, #2 ) Remove the retention clips that hold your pump to the motor. Squeeze and slide your water pump clamps away from the water pump and remove the hoses, then replace the pump.
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2. Symptom: Washer drains the water, but fails to spin or agitate.

Cure: Replace the Lid Switch (Tools #6)
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or Replace the motor coupling located directly in front of and attached to the motor by removing the water pump (Tools, #1, #2 ), hoses, then the water pump Retention clips (Tools #1) then the nuts holding the motor clips down (Tools #3).and finally the clips holding the motor (Tools #1).
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Pry the plastic tripod shaped plastic piece from both the motor and the transmission (Tools #1) and throw them away along with the Rubber cushion between them. Replace the Tripods with the new coupling parts exactly as they were before removal. The plastic tripods will be tight so you can tap them down flush to the motor shaft and transmission to seat them in place. Replace the rubber dampener on the transmission taking care to match the motor tripod to the empty teardrop shaped holes and seat the motor back in place then clip it all back together. I never replace the screws since they make no difference at all when locking the motor down. The clips are more than enough to keep this all together.

3. Symptom: Washer fills with water, but doesn't spin, agitate or drain, and no motor noise is heard

Cure: Again this may be a lid switch depending on the year and model (Tools #6) or it is the Start up capacitor (Tools #3 or #5). The capacitor is usually a long 4 to 5 inch black to brown cylinder with 2 electric leads recessed into the head. It is located in one of 3 places. In the head and timer area, Mounted to the back inside wall of the machine or Screwed directly on the motor with a circular bracket. You can usually remove the capacitor easily if it's mounted to the inside wall or the motor. The head/timer area will require you to remove 2 Phillips head screws (Tools #6) slide the head forward and unhook it from the base of the machine.
The capacitor may either be mounted in the head itself, or the top of the steel base.
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4. Symptom: Motor spins, water fills, pump drains water, lid switch activates the motor, timer hums but washer neither agitates or spins.

Cure: Replace the transmission.(Tools # 1 through #5). there are 3 bolts that hold the transmission in place, as well as the nut that holds the agitator in place.
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I usually remove the agitator bolt first,

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then tip the Washing Machine 60 degrees on it's back to access the transmission for this repair, then I remove the wire loom attached to the motor as well as the capacitor if it is screwed to the motor. Then remove the wires from the small plastic loop that locks the motor wire loom in place on the transmission. Next, remove the 3 bolts that hold the transmission to the machine and slide it out without bending the agitator shaft. Replace the transmission with a used or new transmission that exactly matches the old transmission agitator shaft length. Assembly is the exact reverse of disassembly.

5. Symptom: Washer does exactly what it is supposed to do, except that when the lid is opened, the tub makes a howling or grinding noise, and sometimes a shrieking or whistling sound, followed by a burning smell.

Cure: This is caused by the Tub Brake (Clutch) which is located directly on top of the transmission and has a loose rubber noise dampener ring attached to the outside of a shiny silver/chrome looking wheel. Inside this wheel you will find a circular ring with a spring and 2 dog eared bends in it like this /.
063ed3c.jpg
This piece is the actual brake (Clutch) shoe, and if every other hole on that shoe does not have a white pad riveted to it, your brake has either begun to fail, or has already failed completely. Replacement is easy, just grab your pliers, squeeze those 2 dog eared bends together and lift it out.
When you install the new one, be careful sliding the transmission back on because there is a white plastic cam on the drum that must be free spinning to activate the brake.

3b0e7af.jpg
This cam must not rest between the Dog ear bends "/ ( a common mistake) but to either side of them " / or / ".

6. Symptom: Lower Agitator rotates, upper agitator spins freely, Clothes are still dirty.

Cure: Replace your Agitator Dogs.

d0faa1b.jpg
This is a typical agitator dog replacement kit above, but in most situations, you will only need the 4 beige dogs you see in the picture.
You will need to remove your Agitator bolt to release the agitator assembly. Then you will need to pull the large white piece as seen at the top of the photo straight up to access the dogs directly. Most of the time the entire top half of the agitator breaks free, so don't get excited, this is to be expected. Replace the dogs in the slots provided exactly as they came out with the teeth grabbing the inner rim of the agitator. Then reassemble and bolt in place.

I will add to this as time goes on, but for now this should get you through some common problems that may arise.

Please Vote for this Tip if you found it helpful.
Bob S.

on Mar 17, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Need to replace brake power booster on 1992 buick limited with AB


Heres a way to save you a lot of time. remove the two bolts that hold the master cylinder to booster, leave all brake lines connected, pull master away as far as it will go, you may have to pull on the line some, next go inside and remove the pin to remove the rod from brake pedal, you can let brake switch stay, back to booster, remove vacuum line from booster, back inside the car remove the 4 nuts that hold the booster to firewall, make sure rood is clear, go out and pull booster out and remove, install new booster make sure rod hooks to pedal before bolting it up, because sometimes the rod may go in the wrong direction, reverse directions to install, when your done theres no need to bleed brake system. hope this helps.

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How do i replace a power brake booster on a 97 ford taurus


  1. Step 1 Mark the brake lines coming into and out of the master cylinder using masking tape and permanent marker.
  2. Step 2 Orient the tube wrench so that it grabs the end of the nut by first sliding it over the brake line.
  3. Step 3 Pull the brake lines out of the master cylinder.
  4. Step 4 Unbolt the two bolts that hold the master cylinder to the brake booster.
  5. Step 5 Slide the master cylinder off the brake booster.
  6. Step 6 Remove the bolts that hold the brake booster to the firewall.
  7. Step 7 Remove the cotter pin from the pin holding the back of the brake pedal to the master cylinder.
  8. Step 8 Slide the brake booster to brake pedal pin out of the mounting bracket.
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Apr 24, 2010 | 1997 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

How do you get a power booster off a 1999 town and country van?


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1 Answer

1999 nissan quest rear brake shoes need changing


help is here:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

Drum Removal
  1. Remove the rear wheel and the tire assembly. Refer to Section 204-04 .
  1. Retract the brake shoes and loosen the brake adjuster screw.
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  1. Remove the brake drum.
----------------------
May require big hammer to loosen drum from axle flange. Hit between the the lugs, not on them.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#10 is access plug to back off adjusting wheel.

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Item Part Number Description 1 2261 Rear wheel cylinder 2 — Dust boot (part of 2128) 3 2197 Wheel cylinder piston (part of 2261) 4 — Cup (part of 2128) 5 2204 Wheel cylinder piston cup spring (part of 2128) 6 — Wheel cylinder housing (part of 2261) 7 — Brake shoe hold-down pin 8 — Access hole (part of 2212) 9 — Rear brake bleeder screw (part of 2261) 10 — Access hole plug 11 — Rear wheel cylinder bolt 12 2212 Rear brake backing plate 13 — Rear brake backing plate bolts 14 2N790 Parking brake lever clip 15 — Spring washer 16 — Secondary brake shoe and lining (part of 2200) 17 — Brake shoe hold-down spring (part of 2B514) 18 — Lower retracting spring (part of 2B514) 19 2A637 Parking brake lever 20 — Parking brake lever pin 21 2A177 Brake shoe adjusting lever 22 — Adjuster lever pin (part of 2A177) 23 — Primary brake shoe and lining (part of 2200) 24 — Upper retracting spring (part of 2B514) 25 2041 Brake adjuster screw

--------------
Shoes Removal

Take a picture and remember how each part goes and attaches
  1. Remove the brake drum, refer to Drum in this section.
  1. Remove the upper retracting spring.
  1. Remove the lower retracting spring.
  1. Remove the self-adjuster.
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  1. Remove the hold-down springs.
  1. Remove the parking brake lever clip and the parking brake lever.

Apr 17, 2009 | 1999 Nissan Quest

3 Answers

Cloth stuck under agitator in washing machine.


there is a bolt under the fabric softner dispenser (if you have one) if not, its a plastic cap on the top of your agitator which pops off by hand or a butter knife.. then there is a bolt under there that holds the unit down..grap the bottom of your agitator and loosen the bolt and remove it...then lift up carefully on the whole thing..careful not to loose the seal and bolt to put the agitator back in place....good luck..

Apr 15, 2009 | Amana ALW480DA Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Top agitator not working properly


Check the agitator by turning it back and forth. It should work like a ratchet (turns one way, locks the other way).If you're able to turn it in both directions, the agitator dogs are worn and need to be replaced. To do this remove the agitator cap and the bolt that holds down the agitator. With the bolt out you can remove the top section of the agitator (auger) where you should see 4 small white or beige plastic gears (dogs). Replace those and it should be ok.

9988a7f.jpeg
Agitator dogs part number is 80040

Mar 03, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore Series 80 washer that agitates a little but is very weak. Spins Ok. Clothes don't clean very well. I need help.


Check the agitator by turning it back and forth. It should work like a ratchet (turns one way, locks the other way).If you're able to turn it in both directions, the agitator dogs are worn and need to be replaced. To do this remove the agitator cap and the bolt that holds down the agitator. With the bolt out you can remove the top section of the agitator (auger) where you should see 4 small white or beige plastic gears (dogs). Replace those and it should be ok.

Feb 23, 2009 | Kenmore 80754 Top Load Stacked Washer /...

1 Answer

94 landcruiser brakes


Rear DRUM instructions are first If you would Like Pictures and all They Must Be Emailed as TOO LARGE For FixYa's Format im at aol.com
Just use my Knickname@ and let me know where to send.


  1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assembly.
  2. Remove brake drum. If brake drum cannot be removed easily, insert a suitable screwdriver through hole in backing plate, then push adjuster lever away from adjuster and back of adjustment tension.
  3. Remove tension spring, using a suitable tool, then remove rear shoe hold-down spring and pin. Remove rear brake shoe and anchor spring, Fig. 7.
    1. On Land Cruiser models, remove front hold-down spring using a suitable tool, then disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake bellcrank, Fig. 7.
    2. On Pickup, 4Runner, 4WD T100 and 4WD Tacoma models, remove front shoe hold-down spring and pin, using a suitable tool, then disconnect No. 1 parking brake cable from No. 3 parking brake bellcrank.
    3. On 2WD T100 models, proceed as follows:
      1. Remove E-ring, then automatic adjusting lever and C-washer, then parking brake lever. Disconnect brake line from wheel cylinder using a suitable container to catch fluid.
      2. Remove wheel cylinder. Remove following parts from wheel cylinder: two boots, two pistons, two pistons cups and spring.
    1. On models except 2WD T100, remove front brake with strut, then disconnect parking brake cable from front shoe. Remove parking brake cable No. 2.
    2. Remove adjusting lever spring, then the adjuster from front shoe.
    Inspection
    1. Measure brake drum inside diameter. Inside diameter should be 11.61 inches,
      1. Measure brake shoe lining thickness, Fig. 3. Minimum thickness should be .04 inch on models except on T100 models and .039 inch on T100 models.
      2. Inspect brake lining and drum for proper contact and replace drum or shoes as necessary.
      3. Inspect wheel cylinder for corrosion or damage.
      4. Inspect backing plate for wear or damage.
      5. Inspect bellcrank components for bending, wear or damage.
      6. Apply a suitable lubricant to backing plate contact areas.
      Installation
      1. On 2WD T100 models, proceed as follows:
        1. Apply lithium soap base glycol grease to piston cups, pistons and boots.
        2. Assemble and install wheel cylinder.
        3. Connect brake line to cylinder.
      1. Apply high temperature grease to following parts:
      1. Apply a suitable lubricant to adjuster bolt threads and end.
      2. Assemble adjuster to lever, then install adjuster lever spring.
      3. On Land Cruiser models, install parking brake lever cable to parking brake shoe, then attach cable to bellcrank.
      4. On Pickup, 4Runner, 4WD T100 and 4WD Tacoma models, install No. 1 parking brake cable to parking brake lever shoe, then attach the other side of cable to No. 3 bellcrank.
      5. Position front shoe in place with end of shoe inserted into piston, then install shoe hold-down spring and pin using a suitable tool.
      6. Assemble anchor spring to front and rear shoe, then install rear shoe with end inserted in piston.
      7. Install rear shoe hold-down spring and pin, then the tension spring.
      8. If necessary, adjust bellcrank as follows:
        1. Lightly pull bellcrank in direction "A", Fig. 8, until there is no slack in part "B".
            1. Rotate adjusting bolt until dimension "C" is .016-.031 inch.
            2. Lock adjusting bolt with locknut, when connect parking brake cable to bellcrank.
            3. Install tension spring.
          1. Ensure proper parking brake travel.
          2. Pull adjusting lever cable upward, then release and ensure adjusting bolt rotates. If bolt does not rotate, check for improper installation of rear brakes.
          3. Adjust strut to shortest possible length, then install drum.
          4. Pull parking brake lever fully upward. Repeat process several times.
            1. Remove drum, then check for proper clearance, Fig. 4. Clearance should be .024 inch. If clearance is not as specified, check parking brake system.
            2. Install brake drum, then bleed and refill brake system.
            3. Install wheel and tire assembly, then lower vehicle.

FRONT ROTORS & PADS
  1. Remove caliper.
  2. Remove cap and snap ring, Fig. 10, then remove cone washers with tapered punch.
  3. Insert suitable length bolts into flange bolt holes, then tighten bolts evenly and remove flanges.
  4. Remove free wheel hub cover and snap ring, then remove nut, spring washer and cone washer with suitable tapered punch.
  5. Remove free wheel hub body and gasket.
  6. Remove locknut, lock washer and adjusting nut.
  7. Remove axle hub and brake disc as an assembly.
  8. Remove oil seal and inner bearing from hub.
  9. Reverse procedure to install. Torque adjusting nut to 43 ft. lbs., then back off nut. Torque nut to 18 ft. lbs. Using spring scale attached to hub bolt, check that preload is 1.4-12.6. Install lockwasher and locknut, if equipped. Torque locknut to 35 ft. lbs., and recheck preload. Secure lockwasher by bending one tab inward and one tab outward.
  1. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove tire and wheel assembly.
  2. Remove clip and hole pins, Fig. 9.
  3. Remove anti-rattle spring and shim(s) if equipped, then remove brake pads.
  4. Lubricate caliper housing with suitable brake grease at pad contact points.
  5. Reverse procedure to install.

Jan 28, 2009 | 1994 Toyota Land Cruiser

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