Question about Kenmore 24622 Top Load Washer
It will pull straight up with a rope or a belt underneath the agitator.
Posted on Nov 09, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: top load kenmore washer
Your problem could be a bad gear case assembly (transmission), bad clutch, or a bad motor coupling. The easiest to diagnose and repair is the motor coupling (it's also the least expensive). All, however, will require access to the inside of the machine. This can be accomplished by: FIRST, UNPLUGGING THE MACHINE 1. Remove the console. Depending in the model you have, the console can be removed by removing the two end caps by placing a flat screwdriver in a groove on the top rear and gently lifting up. The end caps should pop off, exposing a philips screw under each one. Remove the screws and the console should lift up and back. If the end caps are not removable, then you need to place a putty knife under the front corner on either side of the console to release the retaining clips holding it on. Once the clips are released the console should lift off. 2. Disconnect the lid switch connector (white plastic plug with three wires going to it). 3. Remove the two brass-colored clips under the console. These hold the case to the washer frame. Once removed, the case should come off. 4. Lift the washer lid and place one hand under the front rim. Lifting the back up first, pull the case towards you and slide off the frame. 5. Check the floor under the wash tub area, first. If you notice any pools, or dripping of oil, then your gear case is probably shot. Once they start to leak, they should be replaced. 6. Now, you will see a small plastic (white or gray) pump with two hoses coming from it. This is the drain pump. DO NOT take the hoses off. Remove the two retaining clips with a flat screwdriver. Remember how they go back on. There will be a keyed slot on the top and bottom that they must go back in. Leave the hoses attached, remove the pump from the drive motor shaft and push aside. 7. The driver motor is attached in the same manner as the drain pump. Except, the drive motor clips usually have screws holding them in place and are a bit larger. In addition, you will need to remove the wire harness connector. Be careful when removing the retaining clips as the drive motor is heavy. Behind the motor is the motor coupling. 8. The motor coupling consists of two plastic triangular shaped pieces with three forks on each one, connected by a round rubber bushing with holes in it. Typically the plastic forks break off, or the rubber bushing rips apart. Also, the center hole of the plastic pieces can round out to the point that they just spin on the shaft. The center hole should have two flat sides and should NOT be completely round. The coupling usually costs less than $10 to replace. The gear case and clutch are a little more difficult to replace and generally are for the more seasoned techs to handle. If you inspect your machine and find that the motor coupling is fine, then let me know and I'll try to give you pointers to further diagnose.
Posted on May 21, 2007
SOURCE: terrible noise when agitating
Your transmission has gone out. The reason the spin cycle works is because the transmission spins two different ways and you agitate way stripped the gear. Some places rebuild them. Try with your local stores maybe they can rebuild it or get you a good used one. If not you can order a new one from sears.com
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
To check the agitator. Start the washer into wash cycle. Once started Push down on top of agitator. If it catches some times or all of the time when pushing down, then then doggets are worn, under the agitator. You`ll have to remove the agitator to see these. If by pushing down on the agitator, nothing changes, Then you probably have a transmition problem. Check this and let me know what you find.
Posted on Nov 27, 2008
on the old type you turn the centre top to unscrew it. pull up the agitator and replace the same way
Posted on May 14, 2009
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