Question about Pool & Spa
Electrical diagram from circuit breaker box to hot tub connection
120Volt or 240Volt?
Hardwire or plug-in-outlet?
Where is the GFCI? On the outlet or on the breaker?
Here is a starter:
Are you connecting a new spa?
Or is old spa having problems?
Exactly which problems?
Or if the element getting wet and causing GFCI to trip?
Is circuit breaker tripped?
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Posted on Nov 07, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You have 220v running into your motor, the red and the plack are in most cases the same 110v line and what your calling a white netural is a common line. In other words the second half of your 220v line. If your red and black are the two opposing 110v lines that make up your 220v and they are put on the motor and turned on they short aginst each other and blow the breaker. One of your 220v lines should come into your hi -low switch and then split to your high and low on the pump. The other half of your 220v line will go to the common or what your calling nuteral. The difference is a netural completes a 110v circut and a common completes the 220v circut it will take to run the motor. One of the splits will complete the low speed circut and the other will complete the high speed circut. You need to check your voltage comming into the spa, the way the spa is wired (110v-220v), and how the motor is wired (110v-220v). For your spa this will be in your owners manuel or on a scematic inside a panel or door and is quite often a plug you change from one spot to another. On your motor will have a scematic on the back of the motor that will tell you haw to adjust the wireing already in place on the wire board of the motor. This may sound deep but if all your voltages are set the same and your high and low are the same leg of power, this should fix your problem.
Posted on Oct 31, 2009
SOURCE: no power to hot tub...
In all liklihood, your problem is a breakdown in the insulation of the heating element. The elements tend to be mineral insulated then metal jacketed. Once you get a bit of corrosion on the jacket and a little water gets into the mineral powder, it's insulation properties fall off sharply, shorting out the power supply.
There are two practical ways of testing this:
The pro way of doing it is to borrow a high voltage insulation tester, disconnect the power leads from the element and check the resistance between one of the elements terminals and the jacket. Treat anything less than a megohm as a failure requiring replacement of the element. (nb. This is one of those rare cases where you need to use a proper insulation tester - an ordinary multimeter often fails to find this problem)
The alternative is just to replace the element and see how much difference it makes.
Posted on May 25, 2009
By code, this would require underground cable to a breaker panel with a double pole GFI (maybe that's what you were planning). Then from the breaker panel to outlets, pumps, etc.
40 amp breaker will require 8 AWG cable.
More info, let me know...
Posted on Aug 23, 2009
Testimonial: "BY CODE, means it's the law!!! I didn't want to cut thru my black-top driveway. It's about 130 feet around the yard to the hot tub."
your ozonator may have condensation water in it, try unplugging it and using a hairdryer to dry it out, otherwise you will need a replacement ozonator (i know where to get these at dealer cost if you need one). When replacing ozonator, make sure you request the correct plug type depending on if you have the white plugs or gray plugs that plug into either the side of your spa pack or the circuit board.
Good job on isolating the problem by unplugging each component when a circuit breaker trips. Next, your filter cycle is most likely set on constant filtration, you will need to reset it to 2-4 hours per 12 hour cycle. Don't put it in standby, leave it run in standard mode. Hope this helps,
Posted on Apr 09, 2010
Check for a bad heater controller board or burnt wire connection going to the heater. You can check for voltage across the white and black leads going to the heater from the heater controller board (upper left corner of the black control box
Posted on Apr 14, 2010
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