Question about Samsung 3.5 cu. ft. High Efficiency VRT Front Load Washer

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Samsung front load washer leaking water from underneath during spin cycle

Model # WF220ANW/XAA01 AND IT DOESNT LEAK ALL THE TIME OR ALOT OF H2O

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 43 Answers

SOURCE: Leaking Water

try pouring boiling water down soap draw possible blockage due to cheap wash powder take off lid and massage down pipe then put on wash with no clothing

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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57 varieties
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SOURCE: Samsung Front Load washer has odour

IMPORTANT: Read thoroughly. DO NOT add detergent or other laundry products to this cycle.
1. Remove all items from the washer.
2. Open the dispenser drawer and 2/3 cup (160 mL) of liquid chlorine bleach to the bleach compartment. DO NOT use more than 2/3 cup (160mL) of bleach per cycle as this will lead to product damage.
3. Close the washer door and dispenser drawer.
4. Select the Clean Washer cycle or a full wash cotton 104 F wash (40 C). DO NOT use any higher temperature as this will cause unnecessary fumes
5. Press Start and allow cycle to complete.
6. If the bad odour persists, repeat the procedure 1 or 2 more times. This may be necessary if this is the first time you have run this cycle.
7. After the cycle is complete, leave the door open slightly to allow ventilation and drying of the washer interior.
8. Repeat the cleaning procedure monthly.
To maintain the washer freshness:
1. Use only HE High Efficiency detergent.
2. Leave the door open after each cycle to for better ventilation and drying of the washer interior.
3. Use warm / hot water in your machine unless the fabric you are washing requires cold.
4. Use the correct amount of fabric softener.
5. If your laundry room is damp, use a dehumidifier.
6. Clean the door seal of visible residue.

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: samsung silvercare washer stopped working, won't unlock

here is the most common cause for this problem, according to the Samsung repair guy that was here to fix mine today.
On these washing machines it is possible for some debris (in my case it was a small screw from my packet) to make its way passed the drum and into the pump. Once this happens then the impeller of the pump becomes restricted or completely blocked which will result in the above mentione symptoms.
On some machines the pump is on the front, on others at the rear of the machine. In my case it was at the rear, removing the rear panel will allow easy access to it. Have a bucket ready, when the hose is removed from the pump the water will be draining from the machine. 3 bolts and a hose clamp on the inlet and another on the outlet hose. Disconnect the electrical plug from the pump and you can remove it from the machine for cleaning. A very easy job, requiring little skills and not much in terms of tools. (make sure machine is UNPLUGGED from AC outlet)
Remove obstruction(s) from pump and reinstall in reverse order of disassembly. The guy says these pumps are really tough so if you hear it buzzing, trying to go while it's jammed it's a good sign it will work. If not, replacement will be necessary.
Cost me $140. Could have been worse I suppose. Advise: Empty pockets BEFORE washing clothes...

Posted on May 26, 2009

  • 574 Answers

SOURCE: not enough water in the drum during the washing cycle

If its a High efficiency washer it doesn't use much water. Usually the front load washers are HE washers

Posted on Aug 30, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: samsung vrt washer will begin cycle but get so far

You might have an object jammed in the pump housing. First thing you must do is to unplug the machine from the power outlet.You will then need to remove the back panel of the washer to access the pump. Disconnect the wiring from the pump and remove the two hoses by compressing the two clamps. ( Be ready for water to pour out of the hoses) Remove the three mounting bolts that hold the pump to the frame of the washer and remove the pump assembly. It is easier to work on the pump if you remove it from the mounting plate. Remove the three screws that hold the impeller housing to the pump motor. Seperate the two parts being careful not to damage the rubber o-ring that seals the unit. Inspect the impeller housing for any debris. (I found a nickle blocking the outlet port in mine). Remove anything you may find and reassemble in reverse order. The machine should reset itself and run as normal.
Good luck!

Posted on Jan 23, 2010

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Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

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It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

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