Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Do u have both hot and cold water hooked up? if not u need to switch the buttons from hot to cold supply
Posted on Nov 08, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
hey there is a temo fix till some body comes to your home if you remove the soap try and reach in to the back of the opening you can rest the spring loaded wheel that controls the soap disspenser and that will stop the clicking and allow the machine to run!!!!! after reading all the post i could find i figured it out now my washer is running fine!!!
Posted on Aug 09, 2008
Hi, Both of these fault codes point to a pressure switch issue. If you remove the top panel, three screws in the back, you will have access to the pressure switch. With the tub empty, remove the vinyl hose from the switch and blow backwards through the hose to clear any restrictions. If the fault codes return after diong this, you will likely need to replace the pressure switch. If you have any further questions or concerns please feel free to comment again, Good luck.
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.
We had the same problem:
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
The Sears site for your washer may have a section on the gearcase. Check in that section for a Neutral Drain repair kit.
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.
OR ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
This advise is for Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet front loader washers and dryers with a Control Lock problem.
This may or may not be an indication of a serious problem. In the majority of the cases, this is a simple operator error. Nearly all these model appliances have some sort of Control Lock feature on the front panel now. This is a designed safety feature that is used to prevent small children from manipulating the controls. The controls can be easily locked or unlocked by pressing and holding the following button on the front panel:
Whirlpool Duet Washer - Press and hold the END OF CYCLE SIGNAL button for 3 seconds.
Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Press and hold the END OF CYCLE SIGNAL button for 3 seconds.
Kenmore Elite Washer - Press and hold the DRAIN/SPIN button for 3 seconds.
Kenmore Elite Dryer - Press and hold the AUTO DRY LEVEL button for 3 seconds.
These instructions may not be all inclusive for all Kenmore and Whirlpool models, but they are the most common. Chances are, if you have a Control Lock feature, the instructions will be printed on the front panel adjacent to the button that is required to lock or unlock the controls.
NOTE: These instructions may also work for newer model Maytag, Hotpoint, Admiral and Fridgidaire model front loaders as well. Refer to your owner's manual or front panel for instructions pertaining to your sepcific model.
If the Control Lock feature will not lock or unlock the appliance, unplugging the unit for AT LEAST 30 minutes is recommended in order to reset the main control board. In many cases this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches.
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Posted on Sep 18, 2010
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