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Laser 56 - leaking fuel at heater feed through

My 4 week old L-56 started leaking fuel at the point where the heating element feeds into the lower burner unit. the ceramic to metal seal can be rotated once the clamp ring has been removed. It is like the sealing stuff is gone. Also why would the fuel pump be pumping more than the burner can burn?

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Sky,

It sounds like the igniter is no good. Everytime you try to start the stove the fuel pump puts fuel into the burner. If the igniter works it burns it out, if not it just builds up. If it gets high enough it comes out the igniter. Now, there could be another reason for the fuel. Have you ever pushed the little red putton on the sump? I will say, do not push that button until you know what it does. It can flood your heater big time. Rule of thumb for the red button, one time for one second, only.

You need to sop up the fuel from inside the burner. Use a rolled up paper towel. Once you have proved the igniter you can try again. If you can't prove the igniter you need a new one.

Tom Hawkins
hawkins111@gci.net

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Propane turbo heater. After awhile why does it start to burn eyes and nose?


Hi Eric

It sounds like the heater is getting the air in the room so warm that it's making your eyes and nose hurt. That can be from dryness, from heat, or from combustion products.
Depending on the partucular model, you can try to:
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Last, but probably most important. If you are running a unit like this inside, make sure you have windows open. Please take me seriously here - installed propane furnaces have heat exchangers to pull in fresh air, heat it, and pass that air into your house. A propane heater burning inside your house is burning your inside oxygen and, depending on the flame quality, dumping Carbon Dioxide or, worse, Carbon Monoxide, into your house. You can end up dead pretty quickly, especially from Carbon Monoxide poisoning, and you'll likely be feeling fine right up to the time you pass out. These types of heaters are meant more for outside use, so please, if you absolutely feel you must run it inside, keep windows open and have a fan running. You're playing with your health

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How do I install my hot water heater?


Youtube offers many videos of the water heater installation. Drain first with a garden hose. after turning off water and unplugging electric or shut off gas.

If changing to a tankless, remember they often require a larger vent pipe to the roof. 4" usually, not the 3" for tank water heaters. Local building codes may require a permit and a larger Gas feed pipe.
Also if you're going to use the old Pressure Relief Valve DO NOT test the valve by activating the little lever. Once used over time their internal seals weld onto the closed seat and tend to rip and leak if you test the valves function. Replace with new ( $15) if it's been operated. Most plumbers now use Braded Feed Lines from/to the Water sources, making future replacements easier. You might find the replacement Tank is not the same geometry as the old one, having longer braided feed lines helps when they are on opposite ends of the tank top and the original feed lines are copper and wont reach the new tank pipes or the tank gas starter door is on the back side requiring you to rotate the tank 180. If you're changing size, measure the width and height. It might not fit the old installation.

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Water heater element


Use a clamp amp meter on one phase feeding the heater. With a volt meter you can determine which element is on. At that point look at the current, you should have over 10 amps. Depending if it is hot or cold change the tank temperature by running the hot water or letting it set and when the elements switch you should again have over 10 amps.

You can also put the clamp meter on one heater feed then the other but the above is faster for me.

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Bought a hot water heater made by whirlpool for 2 weeks only had enough hot water to fill 1/4 of the tub then the water turned cold . They have replaced the hot water heater and still has same problem....


The down tube in the tank has fallen off or the hot and cold lines are reversed at the tank. I'm going to assume it is gas , if its electric you need to test the heating elements for continuity and temp settings. as well as the down tube in the top of the tank that sends the cold water feed to the bottom of the tank..

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I have a Laser 30 oil heater . I did a cleaning and changed the fuel filter and cleaned the screen and wiped it out . I re-programed the time clock and the temperature as we had numerous power outages...


A host of problems develop on these heaters by draining fuel to supply the heater from the tank bottom. Use the bottom tank port to pull off moisture occasionally and get equipped with a top mount duplex tank bushing. Plug one of the 2 ports on the bushing, feed 3/8" soft copper tube into the brass adapter until copper touches bottom of tank;(you'll need to hand straighten it as it goes in), scribe a sharpie mark on the copper for a reference point and pull the tube back out 2-3 inches. Now your fuel supply is above any reasonable moisture accumulation in the tank. Bend tube gently and route to your heater. Don't think your heater impulse pump will **** from the tank, you have to prime it by sucking and it will work by siphon to feed your heater forever if the tank doesn't run out of fuel. Don't forget a good inline filter isolated with valve each side. Ideally this should be placed lower than the lowest expect fuel level in the tank.Best of good luck to you. jeffpeck22@hotmail.com

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Hi,
I hate to tell you this but you probably have a leak in the casting of the boiler...it is very slow... therefore the water will evaporate as long as it is hot and you do not see the water...but if you let it cool , not only will the casting shrink and open the hole a bit, but none of the water evaporates....
After 35 years it is time to replace that boiler...

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Toyo 55, igniter gets hardened build-up


Gartyl,

Your Laser 55 burner mat has erroded away. The fuel is pooling someplace in the burner rather than spreading smoothly over the bottom. The stuff on the igniter may be hardened carbon from a poor flame. Bottom line is some burner work. A new mat, ring and cleaning the burner air holes is in order. Don't be surprised if the heat chamber is cracked beyond repair when you get it off. NOW for the bad news. The Laser 55 and 72 are older heaters. You will find just about all the electrical parts are going to be hard to find. They are no longer being made. Your 55 will be able to use the newer 56 blower, mat and burner ring. You will also be able to use the heat element off a 56 as well. If there is a problem with the fuel pump causing your poor flame you will be out of luck.

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If the water still does not heat, then you have to troubleshoot to find the problem. With a voltmeter determine if 240VAC is actually getting to the water heater. Remember, the upper element has priority over the lower element, and if the water is cold, the upper element will try to turn on and this locks out the lower element (only one element is allowed to heat at any given time). The lower element comes on ONLY after the upper thermostat is satisfied. Therefore if the upper heating element is burned out you will never get any hot water. If you suspect this, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE HEATER and take a resistance check of the upper element.

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