Question about GE 36 in. Profile JP960 Electric Cooktop

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I have a GE Profile JP960 electric cooktop. The heat output from the large burner will increase over time. It still works, but gets to hot.

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: ge profile ceramic electric cooktop

No recalls that I know of.  The switch for that burner has shorted and will need to be replaced.  It will be fine once it is repaired.

Posted on Oct 26, 2007

  • 1214 Answers

SOURCE: GE profile performance electric cook

Confirm there is 240 VAC powering the unit (make sure a breaker has not tripped or a fuse blown.).

Did the burners ever produce enough heat?

If yes, then we can look deeper. If no, then the burners may not be adequate for your cooking style. Burners are like light bulbs. A 60 watt bulb will put out more light than a 40 watt bulb. A 100 watt bulb will put out more light than a 60.
Typically, a small burner will provide less cooking heat than a large burner.

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

appldoctom
  • 311 Answers

SOURCE: Electric Glass GE Profile Cooktop Burner popping

yes the knob is attached to a switch and the switch to the burner by way of wires..you can get into the cook top.but with your description of whats going on i would have the switch with me and then may only have too take apart once.there is a chance your burner is bad,but as you describe the way the switch is acting is seems pretty sure just the switch.you can order switch on line you need your model and ser#

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Right front (large) burner indicates hot, won't work, flashes F153

I hade a code 153 also. Changed the element(costly-$200) and had to recalibrate the pan sensors(in the manual). All works fine now.

Posted on May 29, 2009

Controlfrk
  • 304 Answers

SOURCE: Burner only cooks on high heat.

You need the switch for that burner. The contacts inside are stuck together. You will need to pull the unit and separate the glass from the lower body to access it. To get the right switch you need full model and serial number located on a plate at the bottom of the unit.

Your ability to perform this is dependent on how mechanical you are. The Whole unit must be removed from the counter opening and the base unscrewed from the glass, remove knobs before disassembling. For someone mechanical this is not difficult. De-energize whole unit first.

Once the two pieces are separated the remainder is mechanically easier. Disassemble the box on right containing the switches and replace the correct one. Reverse the process for reassembly. Good Luck

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

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You need the switch for that burner. The contacts inside are stuck together. You will need to pull the unit and separate the glass from the lower body to access it. To get the right switch you need full model and serial number located on a plate at the bottom of the unit.

Your ability to perform this is dependent on how mechanical you are. The Whole unit must be removed from the counter opening and the base unscrewed from the glass, remove knobs before disassembling. For someone mechanical this is not difficult. De-energize whole unit first.

Once the two pieces are separated the remainder is mechanically easier. Disassemble the box on right containing the switches and replace the correct one. Reverse the process for reassembly. Good Luck

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Did the burners ever produce enough heat?

If yes, then we can look deeper. If no, then the burners may not be adequate for your cooking style. Burners are like light bulbs. A 60 watt bulb will put out more light than a 40 watt bulb. A 100 watt bulb will put out more light than a 60.
Typically, a small burner will provide less cooking heat than a large burner.

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Hello
Welcome,
Sounds like you have a bad surface heat controller.
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please remember to leave a rating before you sign off

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