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Ge tfg27pfxa profile with cooling problem

I have a ge profile fridge/freezer, it was inherited. It has been sitting in garage for about 4 months, we have started bto use it, the freezer is not freezing and there is cool air being pumped into the fridge section, the light and sound of motors running are working. Between the frige and freezer it gets really hot and the back of the fridge is really hot too. Is it worth fixing? what do you think may be the problem? Also what would be trhe cost? Thanks, Paul

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  • GE Master
  • 9,472 Answers

Remove the back panel in the freezer to see if the defrost heater is running continually.

Posted on Nov 06, 2012

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore Trio 596.75509400

My problem is identical to jcalhoun on Sep 21, 2008..I have a Kenmore Trio 596.75502400. Freezer is ok..Lights are on. Any help would be appreciated.

Posted on Sep 21, 2008

Krames
  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer side cold, frige side warm

Defrost heater is open behind back wall. order new heater #wr55x10101 remove 4 screws 2 bottom, 2 top behind light shield, defrost freezer so ice is off of evap, replace heater with new one.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: the refrigerator section is not cold

Replace the freezer fan motor.

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: frige light on not cooling,freezer fan working but not freezing

Hello there. Let me see if I can assist you.

A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Posted on May 27, 2009

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: GE profile refrigerator line freezes, fan blows but no cold air?

OK, I think I understand. Thing is we need to do a few things to see if your control board is the problem or if the fan or a freon leak is the answer. You need to tell me if this began suddenly or if over a period of time. I have been having trouble lately from Fixya if the customer (YOU) responds to my solutions. Let me know if you want my help and I will see if I get a email letting me know of your response, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Posted on Jul 12, 2009

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If the cooling fan was stuck , that may also be a cause for your refrigerator wall becoming hot.Check that too.
Hope My info is useful....Bye

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