Question about Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer
Whatis the proceedure for replacing the drive belt?
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: maytag neptune mah3000aww
re original issue, see if R11 is burned. if so, need to change R11 resistor and associated triac, and probably wax motor so it won't do it again. temporary fix just cut out R11, door won't lock. if your model won't spin that way, depress actuator for microswitch from door wax motor. instructions on web.
Posted on Oct 23, 2008
can be done just need PATIENCE!.. youll need ot remove the door assembly, and the 2 screws oppisirethe heing willalow for the front "u" shaped panel to be reomved.. next remove the 4 screws from with in the dispenser area, and then there are perhaps (6) 5/16 screws holding the nextfront bulkead and maintop assy down.. after removing theese screrws youll be able to lift eh main top back wards( prop it with something, a few more screws will release te hlatch assembly.. from here you can probably install the new bellow, remove the spring and wire, and the work the new bellow around the tub lip. a third hand will come in handy, after working it around , youll needto reconnect the tension spring..HARDEST PART OF JOB>>> REQUIRES PATIENCE!!!!!. sometimes this goes on for me with out issue in 5 min, other times 25 min and im PISSED AT IT!!!!!!!,, wrap the wirer around bottom of lip and your going to hold one end of spring, needlenose vice grips work perfectly. then with another set of needle nose. stretchthe spring togethr to lock the wire around.. whern you finally get this reassemble the latch and drop the top back down replace all teh screws, and finally you need to retuck the bellow into the front bulkhead( tabbs line it up nicley.. good luck!!!
Posted on Feb 22, 2009
This is specifically for a Maytag Legacy SAV515DAWW, but may apply to the whole Legacy line.
There is only one drive belt on this washer and it is not accessible directly from the bottom as a pan forms the bottom of the case. All work can be performed through the bottom front panel, once it is removed.
Before one starts, an overview is helpful. The motor for the washer is bounted just behind the access panel. Attached to the shaft at the motor bottom is the drive pully for the drum belt, along with the belt tensioning pully and spring. Below that is the pump assembly attached by three screws in the shafts, which are accessible only from the bottom. What you must do, is remove the pump by unfastening four hex-head bolts, then rotate the motor and pump assembly bottom upwards to the front, so the bottom of the shafts containing the torx head screws fastening the pump are accessible.
While everything is all together it is helpful to notice that the far support for the pump is in almost a direct line with the motor shaft and the tum pully shaft. When you reassemble the components, this vertical pump support must go between the belt. As you face the washer, the tensioning pully will ride on the outside of the right side of the belt.
1. Unplug the washer.
2. Pull it out from the wall, so it may be tilted back at about a 45 degree angle and will not fall foreward.
3 Remove the two hex head screws on the right and left bottom front of the washer. The panel should lift out from the bottom, Two pins hold the top of the panel in.
4. Examine the mechanism as described above.
5. Detach (Unhook) the tensioning pulley spring from the front of the bracket above the pump..
It is not necessary to remove any of the hoses. There is adequate flexibility and slack for replacing the belt.
6. Remove the four hex bolts attaching the galvanized motor bracket to the frame.
7. Rotate the motor back, so the pump bottom faces the front.
8. Remove the three torx head screws in the pump support arms.
9. Detach the pump from the motor. Gently pry it off or gently strike the body of the pump away from the motor with a soft faced mallet.
10. Place the new belt on the motor pully and reinstall the pump, so the leg closes to the tub pulley is inside the two sides of the belt. Reinstall the pump screws in the plastic shafts.
11. Reinstall the motor and fasten the bolts.
12. Make sure the tensioning pulley is to your right of the belt and then side your hands to the rear and slip the belt under the drum pulley and completely around it.
13 Feed the belt onto the drum pulley. I did this by reaching back with my left hand and feeding the belt, coming from the motor pulley, into the drum pulley, then slowly rotating the right side of the drum to me with my right hand.
14 Check to ensure the tensioning pulley is to the right of the belts, then reattach the spring, so the pulley forces the righthand belt to the left.
15. Set the washer upright, open the lid and rotate the drum around twice using your hands. This will help seat the belt on the pulleys and ensure the drum is not stuck.
16. Make sure the cycle switch is pulled out (set to off) and plug the power in.
17. Set on a wash cycle and looking in the bottom , check for proper operation. If the motor appears to be stalling, immediately turn the unit off. Rotate to tub some more by hand and test for operation. If it still doesn't work, see help, your problem is more than just a belt!
18. If everything seems to work, toss in a test load of laundry and pat yourself on the back for being able to save some money!
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
I need to know what are the steps to replacing the door gasket, I would like to know what to take apart, and what not to take apart. Like a step by step lay out.
Posted on May 25, 2009
The answer is:
CAPACITY 3.1 Cubic Feet
The reference for this answer can be found here:
Seach in this document for "capacity".
SECTION 1. GENERAL INFORMATION Page 1-4
Posted on May 25, 2009
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