Question about Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
EE-22 means that the unit has tried three times to ignite. after this it goes into a "lockout" condition. remove the power and the computer will reset itself. it will then try to re-ignite. check for a fuel blockage, dirty filter etc. if there's water in your kerosene it will not fire! kerosene floats on top of water. bleed your system until you get kero and no water. use a gas additive to remove water. dry-gas will work. just empty the bottle's contents into your tank. on your computer type in toyostove error codes. this will take you to toyo's site and explains the error codes.
Posted on Nov 10, 2007
EE22 is a lock out code that keeps you from continuing to try to start the heater. This code usually pops up as the result of a problem with the fuel supply (i.e. no fuel, fuel sys obstruction, clogged filter, water frozen in line, faulty igniter), but could be more serious. To clear the code the easy way, unplug heater for at least 30 minutes. While you are waiting, check your fuel tank to see if you have fuel. Then check filter to make sure the element is not clogged and that there is no air or water (or ice) in the fuel line. If you find a problem with any of these things, correct it before trying to start heater again.
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Posted on Nov 21, 2007
SOURCE: toyostove laser 73
My Laser 73 does the same thing at least once, and sometimes twice, a year. The EE6 code is what the onboard computer gives when it THINKS the flame has gone out. Now, it COULD be that all that is wrong is you are out of fuel, OR you have water in the fuel. But....the more likely scenerio, (and what has always gone wrong with mine) is a common problem in the flame pot:
There is a stainless steel baffle near the bottom of the flame pot. (about 2 inches off the bottem). This baffle is used to "form the flame", cause it to curl up around the inside edges of the pot, where the air intake holes are, to create a clean-burning, high-efficiency blue flame. Over time, this baffle becomes horribly warped and distorted from the intense heat. (an engineering design screwup, IMO) (but you'll never get them to admit it) This warping of the baffle, in turn, causes the flame itself to become uneven, and to also begin burning poorly, with soot deposits. One of the first hints this is happening is lots of YELLOW flame, instead of the usual blue. When this happens, the flame SENSOR becomes sooted and dirty, and no longer is able to sense the flame. It tells the computer to shut down, because it thinks there is no flame, hence the "EE6" code. This sensor is simply a stainless steel rod poking into the flame pot. It's on the front of the pot, two screw fastening, and has a single wire attached to it, which runs to the computer. It is used to detect IONS (minute current) running from the flame front to the pot itself. (ground) And....(as if all this is not enough), the gaskets around the middle section of the flame pot, and at the top, usually develop cracks and leaks.
Cleaning the sensor (with steel wool) usually isn't enough to fix this problem. You will likely have to replace both of the fire-pot gaskets, the flame pot baffle, and also the burner "mat". (a round, flat, fiberglass mat glued to the bottem of the flame pot. Vacuum out all the dirt and soot. The baffle "unscrews" with about a quarter-twist CCW. (lift upwards on it, while turning CCW) Use fire-proof sealer on the new gaskets. Plan on all day taking it apart, and back together again. (a time consuming job...no fun) Good luck!
Posted on Jan 26, 2008
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