Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
When I select cold wash and cold rinse all I get is hot for either. Just replaced valve inlet. Not sure if temp was an issue before
Reverse the water hoses and see if you get just cold water. Post back the results.
Posted on Nov 06, 2012
Ok so I have no water going in when on cold cold. Warm and hot cycles work. Water is turned on. Hoses are not reversed. ??????
Posted on Nov 27, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
switch off power remove top switch off water and remove hose. remove inside pipe from valve - usually held by just a spring clip remove electrical terminals valve is just held with a couple of screws usually - remove these and valve will come away. put back in same order
Posted on Jun 22, 2007
SOURCE: Maytag washer
It sounds like you have the hot and cold water lines to the washer reversed. Try turning off the tap for the hot water then setting the washer to just cold wash and then hot washif you get nothing on the cold and cold water when set to hot they are probably reversed. Typically if the auto-temp control is broken you will only get hot or cold coming out on any setting.
Posted on Nov 19, 2008
If the cold works on cold wash but the hot don't work on hot wash . Then yes the switch is bad.give What model is it?
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
most likely cuase would be the inlet valve
you would need the complete model number to make sure you get the right part for that unit.
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
If you suspect you have a defective Water Inlet valve (also known as a FILL valve or MIXING valve) it can easily be diagnosed by performing the following steps:
- First, make sure the water taps are turned on all the way, and the fill hoses are not kinked in anyway. If everything checks okay, proceed to the next step.
- Now, turn the water taps off, disconnect the fill hoses from the back of the washer and place them in the wash tub. Turn the taps back on and make sure you have proper and forceful water flow (minimum water pressure should be 10-25PSI).
- Check the sediment screens on the Water Inlet valve on the back of the washer. Sometimes these screens will clog with rust or sediment and prevent water flow. Cleaning with some distilled vinegar works well.
If you've attempted all the steps above, but still have no luck, more than likely the inlet valve is bad and requires replacement. Please, read all instructions thoroughly BEFORE attempting. This is a simple repair that any "Do-It-Yourselfer" can accomplish. Follow the steps provided:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
7. The inlet valve is located on the back panel with two or more sets of electrical connectors attached to it. The connectors are usually color-coded to indicate which valve is HOT and which valve is COLD (In the case of a Mixing Valve, you may have additional electrical connectors). Remove the connectors and check the contacts for corrosion. Sometimes a good cleaning can restore a valve solenoid to working order. (You may want to label the connectors, if necessary, to ensure you know how they go back on).
8. Disconnect the small rubber water hose(s) attached to valve with a pair of pliers to release the hose clamps. Inspect the hose(s) for any evidence of cracking.
9. With the water hose(s) removed, loosen the mounting screw(s) and the inlet valve comes off.
10. Re-install new inlet valve following these steps in reverse order. Pay careful attention to make sure you correctly connect the HOT & COLD electrical connections (RED is usually the HOT water side). Make sure all hoses are fitted back in place and the hose clamps are snug.
11. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
12. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
13. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
14. Reinstall console.
It appears your valve has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question
Posted on Sep 15, 2010
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