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Rheem super quite 80 ignites and shuts off after 5 seconds or so, Here is what e have done: have 2 units so swapped the pressure sensor, flame sensor and manifold lit switch. all work fine in the other unit. checked ground and voltage ( 120 ) to the flame sensor. Checked poarity and everything else in the trouble shooting guide. Cleaned the unit checking for gas obstruction and dirt in the manifolds. Replaced all air filters. 2 units share exhaust so doubt blockage in vents as other unit would have an issue as well.Flame is strong, blue and all burners are lit. About ready to replace the IFC as we are basically out of options. Also should mention, no amber light. This all occurred after hurricane sandy and no power for 5 days. Unit fired up and heated for abou 30 minutes after powre restored before the problem started. Will check the roof tomorrow but doubt any issue. Could the storm have caused an issue or emerely coincidence?

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  • jack dagnese Nov 07, 2012

    Thank you for you helpful; insight. I ahve not replaced the board yet even though it is getting quite cold here in on Long Island. Hurricane Sandy and lack of power etc for 5 days has made us tough. Anyway, can advise as follows:

    1) Single flame sensor - have rechecked the voltage which should be between 70 - 120 v from what I know. Reading 24 or 48 v. Meter is a light up type not digital so cannot tell you the exact voltage only that it does not go beyond the 48 v light. Sngle wire from sensor leads to a mutliple ( 9 ) wire molex connector which joins another molex connector at the junction of the upper/lower unit. Have checked the connections etc at all points and they appear to be in good order. Trust that the low voltage to the sensor is the fault but if so, what is the reason/fix for this.

    2) The curent flame sensor was swapped out from my other unit ( 2 zone ) so I know that it is good. In addition the one that I removed from the non working unit is working just fine in the other unit as were all other parts.

    3) The flame is robust and blue, covers all burners with no jump etc. Looking at the 2 units, the does not appear to be any difference in the flame between the 2 units.

    4) I removed all filters to see if the improved air flow would help but it did not. Both units share an exhaust meeting the at a point above the units to the exhaust ipie. Checked the roof and it is clear up there and has a mesh cover to prevent critters etc. Is it possible that the exhaust manifold could have a clog? How about the pipe from the unit to the main pipe to the roof?

    5) Confirm that we checked for therm for problem by bypassing on the IFC. Jumper from r to w with therm wires disconnected yielded same result.

    6) Checked all gas conections for leaks and burners for clogs. All are clear and in fine working order. Again, the unit ignites, with robust flame and strong surge, but cuts out. All gas pipe is black iron with no copper anyweher.

    based on the above, I am convinced that it is either the low voltage and or blockage. We have no error code, except lock out after multiple failure trips it, robust flame with no amber light sensing same. I am really keen to know what the low voltage to the flame sensor may be caused by and fix as suspect this to be the cause. keep in mind that all grounds have been checked multiple times as well as polarity. Limit switches have all been checked except the blower motor which should not be a cause here. Appreciate your assitance and look forward to further feedback.

  • jack dagnese Nov 08, 2012

    Confirm that is was the board. After swapping, unit fires up and works as it should.



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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: heater problem

The first thing I would look for is a blockage in the gasline, or at the gas valve.

It sounds like you are not getting gas to the ignitor/burners. This would cause it to obviosly, not sense flame.

When a unit does not sense flame, it will shut of, and usually try again up to 5 times (depending on brand/model)

So here's what happens in that scenario.

Call for heat.
Inducer motor kicks on, the sensor detects the inducer motor is working, and the ignitor starts glowing/sparking (depending on type of ignitor)

It will then send gas through the gas valve and ignite.
If the flame sensor does not detect flame, the glow coil shuts down, the gas shuts off, the inducer shuts off and you get your error code.

(Some units will then send on the blower motor, and you have to cut power to reset.)

Do you have a copper line with natural gas?
If so, replace it with stainless steel or black iron.

Coper apearantly reacts with the aditives in natural gas and tends to form a gray ashy substance that builds up in the copper tubings walls and eventually cloggs gas valves.

At the inlet side of the gas valve, there should be a screen to catch such things.

Turn off the gas, turn of the power, and remove the gas line going to the gas valve. Look for anything clogging that area, also look for kinks in the gas line.

Remember to use a "flamable gas approved" pipe dope or thread tape when reinstalling the supply line.

Lets see what you find there and then we can continue the diagnostic if needed.

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SOURCE: LP Ruud furnace achiever 90+. Strange problem.

Sounds like two problems. Not enough combustion air or a defective high temperature limit switch. You enclosure may not be getting enough outside air to properly sustain combustion. If the unit has a rollout thermostat it may be defective and stopping everything.

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

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SOURCE: Goodman GMNT 60 Furnace. Burners shut off after a

No, the board isnt out. The board has a code telling you that its out. Its your flame sensor. You wouldn't have gotten any heat if the gas valve was out. check if that flame sensor goes to another sensor on the same circuit , if it does check that. If it just a one wire sensor make sure its in the right position. If its a one rod flame senor with one wire I would sand it down with sandpaper. if its a two wire senor ohm it out to see if you ger current going through it.

Posted on Oct 16, 2009

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SOURCE: Burner ignites and goes out (Goodman Gas-fired furnace)

The problem you have is water in the exhaust pipe.
Check to see if the pipe has sagged anywhere or if there is a trap in the line.
If you hear gurgling then it is definetly water....
Some times can be hard to find, even a pipe 1/4 full will cause problems. They are very sensitive to flue problems.
Make sure that the flue pipe either runs back to the furnace or out to the outside, a continuos slope either way witha high spot in the middle.
Also check the bottom drain of the blower if it has one, have had them plug and trap water also..

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!


Posted on Dec 24, 2009

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SOURCE: GMNT080-4B Goes into lock after 20 minutes or so of operation

Hi jump out the presure switch see if it lights check fan control is clean at the back of it check air filter is clean

Posted on Feb 22, 2010

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