Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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Kenmore Elite Model 110..71082000 Gas Dryer wont stay on to dry clothes

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  • Rene Bensel Nov 08, 2012

    I solved the problem by installing updated p/n 8577274 THERMISTOR. Thaks for everyone's input.

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1 Answer

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 9,472 Answers

If the dryer lights and then goes out, you will need to replace the flame sensor. Here is the part to order.

Posted on Nov 06, 2012

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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luxur4
  • 92 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Front loader washer doesn't spin clothes as dry as before

The out-put pump is possible clogged up and not moving the water efficiently, also check the pully belt is tight

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

  • 30 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore elite dryer model #110.63952102 start button wont stay on everything else works

I have the same problem with my Kenmore Elite dryer (model#110.74992300), and I replaced both the motor and heater relay and the problem solved. You can get the relay from www.mouser.com for $3 each. The model for the relay is T9AP1D52-48. You may want to open up the dryer to verify the relay model, it is printed on the relay.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

  • 1214 Answers

SOURCE: Clothes smell like gas

STOP USING THE DRYER AND CALL A QUALIFIED SERVICE PERSON TO TEST ALL GAS LINE CONNECTIONS WITHIN THE UNIT!

A gas leak can cause a fire in your home. Although, we have always used a gas dryer, and the clothes do have a fresher smell to them than an electric dryer. Any gas which may be in the area would be consumed when the gas flame was burning as normally the pilot remains lit throughout the drying cycle.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

  • 311 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore Elite washer spins to slow cauisng the

If this is occurring mostly on heavier loads your clutch may be slipping. If you take a flathead screwdriver and push down the lid switch so the washer will spin with the lid up, grab the inside of the drum. If you can easily stop the drum its most likely a bad clutch. If you tip the washer back and see oil underneath then its probably your transmission leaking oil onto the the clutch causing it to slip (in which case you need transmission and clutch assy). If you see oil I would probably not bother calling a tech it would be a pretty expensive repair.
IF the problem is with the clutch only it may be worth repairing but to replace the clutch you will have to remove the pump, motor, transmission, and the clutch mounts on top. The other less common possibility could be a bad drive block under the inner tub. hope this helps. _MJ_

Posted on Jan 28, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore elite h3t giving f dl code

1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.

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Posted on Sep 10, 2010

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