Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
The serial number is SM8525079. After doing a little research, I thought it was a model SQ9549LGO, though I was unable to verify with an image. The model number is kind of under and behind the lid. Apparently over the years it's been worn away by water. Whose bright idea was it to put it there anyway?? In trying to determine why it won't spin, I pulled the top off and checked the lid switch. It seems to be fine. While under the top, I found a schematic of some sort, which had a part number of 3955499. Researching this seemed to indicate model LSQ9549LW2. I'm concerned about ordering the wrong part, if I can ever figure out what exactly is wrong. Any suggestions?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Well I'm going to do my best to fix your washer. First unplug the washer and turn off the water. If you have a shop vac take the drain hose out of the drain,and through the drain hose vacuum the water out of your washer. If you don't have a shop vac go to the auto parts store and buy a pair of radiator hose clamps . Then facing the washer locate the two screws. They will either be in the front or rear of the control panel and back them out far as you can. Once you have done that pull the control panel slightly forward, and tilt it back on the hinges. Now unplug the lid switch wire but don't forget to plug it back when your done. Next locate at the rear of the washer body the two gold clips then push forward, and take careful note of how they fit. Then pop them out with a screw driver tilt the washer body forward at 45 degree angel and walk forward with the body, and set it down. Now you will see the white pump and motor assembly. You should see two clips holding the pump to the motor pop them off, and pull the pump off the motor shaft. Now if you fell the need to remove the pump use the radiator hose clamp. take them and clamp the hose coming from the tub but its not necessary for the repair. Next disconnect the wiring harness from the motor (note the position of the harness for reassembly). Remove the two 5/16 inch screws from the motor clamps and pop the clamps off. Once that is complete, remove the motor put the new coupling on the motor and transmission shaft. I use a socket and a hammer
Posted on Jan 26, 2008
If you are talking about a small plastic piece that is on the washer lid that pushes down on the lid switch when the lid is closed, it called a "lid strike". This is an easy fix and does not require opening the washer. If, however, the lid switch itself (which is mounted under the washer tub rim) is damaged you can replace it by following these steps:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. And, still there are some of the older models that have screws holding the console in place from the back. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in on the side of the tub opening and a ground wire attached to the casing. Remove the connector plug, by pushing in on the release tabs on either side and pushing it down through the opening in the washer casing. The wire harness will be held in place by clips under the washer rim. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.
Replacement parts can be found at searspartsdirect.com or repairclinic.com. Simply type in your COMPLETE model number (located along the opening of the tub rim under the lid) in the Search Index. A parts index with illustrations and prices is available.
Good Luck and I hope this helps you. Post back if you have any further comments/questions.
Posted on Feb 25, 2008
you both need to have the switch replaced or you can open top of washer and combine the lid switches wires together as a bypass and electrical tape
the lid switches are put in the washers to keep kids from opening the washer machine this is automatic shut down
you require this part for your washer
Part Number: WH12X10065
Posted on Jun 13, 2008
SOURCE: Old Washer won't spin or agitate
You found a belt? Most w/p washer do not have a belt they are direct drive. take off the pump and motor to replace the motor coupling, 2 plastic pieces w/ a rubber in between
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
This problem is commonly attributed to a loose or broken lid switch.
If your washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle or drain, the problem is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.
If you have any questions about this repair, or if you need additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
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