Question about Frigidaire FEF336BC Electric Kitchen Range

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Why wont my electric oven turn back on?

I was using all burners and the oven and a little later it turned off, now it wont turn on, Why?

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May have tripped a breaker should be about a 50 amp double breaker

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

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Oven wont work everything else is fine

As your oven is electric there is a heating element in the oven, have a look in the oven to find it and check the little plug in caps on the end to make sure they are not loose. If they,re ok check the switch on the front panel sometimes the knob comes loose on the spindle if that's all ok it may be the switch has failed. Good luck.

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We have installed a gas rayburn 480AG (CF) . We are just using the oven at the moment. The pilot light is lit but will not fire up when we turn the oven on. The burner is in pristine condition having...

You've all missed the plot. The pilot is on - the burner won't ignite. That sounds like the oven thermostat is turned down, or the electricity has been turned off.

Dec 14, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

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Kenmore model number 91193412000 burners went out

Its almost impossible to tell you how to repair it without being there to view what is going on. by what you are saying, it looks like you have a short between two or more wires, possibly stuck together from heat. After switching off, remove cover at the back and follow the wiring to the clock and the burner switches and look for anything obvious. Look for a wire possibly burned off and leaning onto another electrical wire.

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Frigidaire electric stove, burners work oven does not. No clock

one of the stoves does not work. What could be the problem and how to fix it?

Jan 06, 2010 | Frigidaire FEF336BC Electric Kitchen Range

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I have a kitchenaid gas stove model #KGRT607. The oven does not reach desired temperature and there is a smell of gas when oven is turned on.

I had what seems to be a similar problem with my range, which is a KitchenAid KGRT607HGL6. I'd turn it on, and sometimes it would light, sometimes not. If it didn't light, I'd start smelling gas and I'd have to ventilate the kitchen. If it did light, it took forever to heat up.

That said, I have just finished doing the things I'll describe below, and the oven appears to be operating correctly now. I'm not going to go as far as to say this will work for you, and I'm not even sure which step was the key (maybe it was a combination of everything), but I'll tell you what I did.

PLEASE be careful. Gas isn't something to be messed with. If you have any doubt, you're far better off calling a repairman than blowing the side of your house off, or worse, hurting yourself.

It might help to download this parts list, and refer to page 9, so you know which parts I'm talking about:

Here's what I did:

1. Removed the racks from the oven.
2. Removed the pan from the bottom of the oven (it just lifts out).
3. Removed the flame shield by taking out the 4 screws holding it down.
4. Turned on the oven, and saw that the element glowed, but that the gas took forever to ignite. When it did, the flames were weak, shooting out perhaps 1cm from the burner. NOTE: For whatever reason, if I opened and closed the oven door every 30 seconds or so, the oven would start. If I just left the door closed, no such luck. ANOTHER NOTE: If I started to smell gas while I was standing by the oven, I shut off the oven, opened some windows and tried again later. I'm not a fan of emergency rooms.
5. Shut the power off to the oven.
6. Unscrewed the ignitor from the bracket that holds it in place inside the oven at the back.
7. Wiped off the burner element (there was a little buildup, sort of like gray dust).
8. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burner to the oven, allowing the burner to be moved around (can't be entirely removed, just wiggled).
9. Removed the storage drawer from under the oven.
10. Using a hose attachment, vacuumed all around the area where the valve and regulator send gas up into the burner (about center, back under the oven). Look for a brass nut sticking up into the end of the burner tube. With the burner unscrewed from its bracket, you'll be able to lift the burner up a bit and vacuum around it a little better.
11. Reattached the burner and ignitor to the bracket inside the oven.
12. Turned the power back on to the oven.

Then I turned the oven back on, and the ignitor glowed for 30-60 seconds and then the gas kicked on with much more flow than before, (core flame cones about 1.5 cm long with more even flame out beyond the cores) and the oven heated up immediately. I'll replace the flame shield, oven pan and racks when it cools back down.

My guess is that there was something (lint, cobweb, dust bunny, who knows) partially blocking the gas flow into the burner tube.

One other thing I did after the oven seemed to be working was to adjust the air shutter at the base of the burner tube, right where it meets that brass nut under the oven. I got that from Installation Step number 28 (page 6) on the following PDF:

Like I said, I don't know if my solution will work for you. Try it at your own risk, and DON'T DO ANYTHING BUT SHUT OFF THE OVEN IF YOU SMELL GAS. :)

Aug 14, 2009 | KitchenAid KGRT607 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Oven takes up to 15 minutes to light. glow plug does appear to be bright orange immediately after turning oven on. it is a propane unit.

Hi, glow plug (element) should glow red, maybe you got faulty thermocouple, located ot bottom of oven burner, unit where gas enter oven burner, they could either be gas pilot or electrical element as metering device, give a little tap, could be stuck, could also be your thermostat, check oven thermostat, many ways to check oven thermostat, give thermocouple a little tap located at beginning of oven burner, if it didn't work, call a mechnic to make futher checks. good luck.

Aug 05, 2009 | Magic Chef CGR3725 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Blackened pans, high flames in oven even at 200 degrees

You still have not answered the questions I asked you, and you have posted your question under an electric range model. I will just have to guess and give you general info due to the lack of information you have given.
I will guess that you are using your range on LP gas. You don't compain of top burner performance, so I will take that to signify that the regulator has been changed from natural to LP, and that the burner orifices have been changed as well. That leaves only the oven. You need to find the spot where the gas comes out of the safety valve and travels up the venturi tube to the oven burner. There will be a small (about 3/4 inch square) adjustable air flow hole there, and right there you will see a brass collar. Use a 1/2 inch wrench to turn that brass collar three full turns clockwise. (it is usually easier to count 12 one quarter turns) If someone has tried to do this step, it may be part way turned in already, so you may not need to, or be able to, turn it three full turns. You do not want to turn it too far, but it will take a little effort. If flames are still too high, turn it a little more. Usually, the square air hole should be left all the way open.

Jun 28, 2009 | Frigidaire FES367 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Self cleaning ovens

i have the same problem. the burners work and f1 is flashing and the oven wont work. i turned the breakers off but it does not reset. i just want my oven back and i will clean it myself.

Sep 05, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

No heat at burners or oven

check your fuse / breaker box make sure you have power (sounds like you dropped a leg of power) make sure breakers/fuse is on/good flip it to off the to on if oven don't work then take a look at the cord to the range check power at the wall then open where cord goes into range check power or you may even find the cord burnt in there if so replace all damaged wires good luck

Dec 21, 2007 | GE JBP82 Electric Kitchen Range

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