We have a Pumptec protection system for a Franklin submersiable pump. It will run for a few minutes, then trip and the red light comes on. There is no waters coming out of the faucets. We were without power for a few days. Once power was restored, we had no pump problems for the first two days.
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Excessive current draw is the issue unless you have a breaker that is popping prematurely. When a motor has to work harder than specs, it will draw more current and a breaker will come to the rescue to protect it. The reduction of speed caused by bad motor bearings or a tight pump will cause the speed reduction and high energy usage.
Your symptoms are in most cases indicating that water is entering electrical connections area, which should be a tight seal.
it is in most cases slight, and the sensitive GFCI is catching a potential shock hazard and trips.
For informational purposes.... It may run just fine with no GFCI protected circuit. But.... This is definitely a NO NO.
tighten or replace the electrical seal. Also, water will have to be removed and allowed to completely dry out.
Once complete, reconnect to a GFCI protected circuit, all should be fine.
I would expect it especially if the tip is not on the wand or open to far. It is possible the pump is failing. How much is the pressure dropping, a few pounds I would expect but I am not familiar with that unit.
More than likely, your unit is equipped with a protective device which automatically trips the unit should the internal motor temperature exceed a preset limit. Then, when the temperature decreases, also to a preset limit, the device turns the pump back on. The purpose of the device is to prevent burnout of the motor. Have an electrician use a clamp-on ammeter to measure the current draw of the motor and compare that to the nameplate data. If the meter shows the motor near, at or over the normal Full Load Amps (FLA), investigate that condition. While there are numerous possibilities, the most likely causes are worn/defective motor or pump bearings. Try to determine if the motor is actually running hot. The nameplate lists a Temperature Rise which gives the normal motor operating temperature under expected full load conditions. Quick check:If you cannot place your hand on the motor surface for at least 10 seconds w/o undue discomfort, your motor is running hot. If the motor is tripping but not drawing excessive current nor running hot, it's very possible that the protective device itself is defective and needs replacement. Have the electrician check out whatever is used in the motor starter for overload device. Some overloads trip on overload and reset themselves on decrease in temperature. Others must be manually reset. If the starter overloads are not tripping but the motor is, then the problem is almost assuredly a defective trip installed in the motor itself. Important: If you are not electrically trained yourself, it IS NOT recommended that you attempt any electrical troubleshooting. Hire a pro.
I am assuming that this is not a brand new installation. If it is, go to http://www.femyers.com and download a manual for your pump.
If the pump has worked properly in the past, what seems to be happening is that the motor is locked up and the built in thermal protection is correctly protecting the motor. Or if by "safety switch" you mean the circuit breaker is tripping, then the following still applies.
The pump impeller may be jammed with debris, or the motor bearings may be worn out, causing the rotor to jam and stop rotating. Also a possibility - the seal between the pump and the electric motor has failed, allowing water into the motor and causing a short circuit which trips the breaker.
It is probably time to call the repairman, or replace the pump. Don't keep trying to turn on the motor; it will not fix itself and you may make things worse.
Remember, these pumps must be primed with water first before first use. Look in the Operating Instructions manual.