The dryer does not get hot

The coils on the gas valve are more than likley the problem they come in a set replace them both. http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/clothes-dryer-repair.html

Their is no pilot light. The system uses a glowbarOPERATION
The newer dryers use a silicone carbide ignitor for ignition. If the Fuse is ok the gas assembly gets power from the control thermostat. The flame sensor allows the ignitor to go cat go. The coils themselves cannot open the gas because the ignitor is using a lot of power. When flame detect gets warm enough then it shuts down the ignitor and power is redirected on the other side of the 3 prong coil. The ignitor is not finished. It now is hot enough to act as a path to the secondary coil which energizes and sends that raw gas to the 1800f screaming hot ignitor. Igniton occurs and keeps the ignitor hot. If ignition at this point were to fail the ignitor would cool down and shut off the power to the secondary coil. Clever ain't it? So what can go wrong? Worn out flame sensor takes longer to reset, ignitor open. Clogged vent overheat fuse blown, bad thermostat, and faulty solenoids.If all is good it should continually shut on and off all during the cycle to regulate the heat


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Possible cause is a bad ignitor. Alot of gas dryers have a ceramic hot surface ignitor. If you can access it, Look and check for cracks. Do not touch the ceramic portion. Oils from your skin will cause a failure if that is not the cause. Other failures can include limit switches and thermostat. In my expierece the hot surface ignitor is the most common failure.

The thermal fuse should only be replaced if the dryer will not start
If it starts the thermal fuse is good.
If you touched the ignitor with your fingers it may have blown out.
Open the dryer and check for voltage to the ignitor through the ignitor wires while the dryer is on.
If you have no voltage check the hi-limit thermostat for continuity as well as the operating thermostat.
Check the flame sensor for continuity while it is cold.
If you have power to the ignitor place a clamp on amp meter on one ignitor wire and turn the dryer on.
If you read 3 amps or less the ignitor is bad.
If it reads the amps or more the gas valve coils are bad.

Modern gas dryers do not have a pilot light. They have an electronic ignitor (glow or spark). A glow ignitor turns on several seconds before the gas turns on and should get orange hot. A spark ignitor should make a clicking or buzzing noise.

Most likely the ignitor is bad but you can check it fairly easily to make certain. The best instructions I have found are at

http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/dryer/gdryer/check/ignitor.php

If it is the ignitor it can be replaced with a few hand tools. Remove the bad ignitor. Write down the make, model, and serial # of your dryer. Call your local appliance parts store to see if they have one it stock before driving over there.

the ignitor needs to be glowing white hot not orange. it is not hot enough to ignite so you need to replace it.

I find that quite often the ignitor is out of alignment or the glass window is covered with lint.
a gas dryer blows air through a burner assembly to heat the air. The burner assembly consists essentially of a gas valve, ignitor and a flame sensor. If any part of the burner assembly malfunctions, the result will be low or no heat and slow drying of the clothes.
There are two common styles of ignitors, glow ignitors and spark ignitors. The ignitor ignites the gas either by heating up and glowing, or by sparking. If the ignitor fails, the dryer will not heat.

The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working.

First thing to check is the ignitor underneath the drum. (You have to open the panel to see it) It should glow shortly after the dryer starts, then the flame starts and the ignitor shuts off. If the ignitor does not glow then it or the thermostat is bad. If the ignitor is glowing but the gas does not light then the gas valve coils may have to be replaced. If the gas ignites but does not stay on either the flame sensor or the coils are at fault.

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Remove the vent line from the rear and try the dryer.
If it heats then that means there is a clog or kink in the vent line blocking the vent air from exiting which will stop the dryer from getting hot!
If not then it's another one of these problems.

Defective Ignitor (Gas Only)
When heated the ignitor used on your gas dryer must obtain a specific high temperature
in order to activate the flame sensor. This ignitor is fragile and susceptible to cracking.
A hairline fracture that is barely visible to the naked eye is enough to change
the resistance of the ignitor to a point that is will not work properly.
You can test the resistance of your ignitor. You should get a reading of 50-400 ohms of
resistance.

If the ignitor gets hot and then goes off after about 10-15 seconds and there is
no ignition, the problem is probably not the ignitor. It is most likely the gas valve
coils that are defective.

If the ignitor comes on and stays on, it is the flame sensor that is defective.

If the ignitor is not getting hot it could also be one of the thermostats that is defective.
The power for the ignitor is passed from the timer, through all of the thermostats,
limit switches and fuses to the ignitor. So if you are not getting power to the ignitor
during ignition, you should check the continuity of the individual thermostats and fuses.
DRYER DOES NOT HEAT



Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)

If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.

An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.

Recent Customer Symptoms:
The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.



Defective Flame Sensor (Gas Dryer Only)
The flame sensor's job is to monitor the ignitor for sufficient heat
to ignite the gas. A properly operating flame sensor will pass a
continuity check under room temperature.

Common Symptoms
If the flame sensor is defective in the open position,
the ignitor will not get hot when the dryer is started.
However, if it is defective in the closed position the ignitor
will get hot, but the flame sensor will not allow the flame to ignite.
In this case, the ignitor will usually stay hot for a long period of
time.



Defective Thermostat
The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature
in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the
temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change
the operating thermostat.

The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode.
It can prevent the element from heating at all.
A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.

There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw.
These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the
Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry
cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the
problem.


Defective Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor.
If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.

Location:
The thermal fuse is located in different locations according
to the model and brand of dryer.

Solution:
Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter.
If it is open, it will need to be replaced






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mounted on top of the gas vavlve is black electrical coils when energized it opens the gas valve,if one of the coils are defective it wont open and let the gas thru,its hard to test the coils so most repairmen just replace them all