Question about Kenmore 63012 Electric Dryer

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How many wires go to the moisture sensor on my kenmore elite dryer

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 9,472 Answers

What is the model number of the unit?

Posted on Nov 06, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Krazytech
  • 725 Answers

SOURCE: Moisture Sensor Location

It could be the sensor. However, check the exhaust vent for restrictions first. you can test the moisture sensor Damp Dry Test 1. Set the following Timer- DAMP DRY Fabric Care/Temperature switch- COTTON HIGH Wrinkle Guard switch- OFF Signal switch- LOUD Door- must be closed 2. Press the PUSH TO START switch. After approximately 16 seconds, the Timer will start to advance to the OFF position, and the ?End of Cycle? signal will sound. If one or more of these functions do not occur, proceed to the Factory Test. Factory Test The Factory Test allows factory/service personnel to test and verify all inputs to the Even Heat control. The basic operation of this test is to notify the operator with an audible beep every time the status of an input to the control changes state. Activating the Test Mode 1. Set the following configuration: Door- must be open Fabric Care/Temperature switch- AIR FLUFF Signal switch- LOUD Timer- TIMED DRY OR AUTO MOISTURE SESING PLUS selection 2. Turn the Wrinkle Guard switch from OFF to ON three times within a five second period. A single beep will sound to indicate that the factory test mode is activated. NOTE: If any of these initial conditions are not satisfied, the control will not enter the test mode. Test Mode Functionality When the control is in the Factory Test mode, every input change of state will result in a beep (with the exception of the Signal switch). This includes: Door switch Moisture Sensor (short/open Sensor will result in a beep) NOTE: A moistened finger or damp cloth may also be used. Fabric Care/ Temperature switch Wrinkle Guard switch Push to Start (PTS) switch (with the door switch closed) Timer (any cam input change will result in a beep) NOTE: Timer will advance during test. If any of the inputs do not result in a beep, proceed to the following component tests If the dryer shuts off too soon when set to the AUTO MOISTURE SENSING PLUS cycle, check the following: -HARNESS/CONNECTION -MOISTURE SENSOR -THERMISTOR -EVEN HEAT CONTROL Procedure: 1. Test the Moisture Sensor by following the procedure outlined in ?Factory Test?, beginning on page 3. If the Moisture sensor fails the ?Factory Test? (does not produce a beep sound), check the Moisture Sensor. a. If there is continuity to Ground for Yellow/Red (Y/R) wire with no load, look for a short in the Sensor or Y/R wire. Verify harness connections both at the Sensor and the Even Heat control. b. If the Sensor and Y/R wire are good, replace the Even Heat control. 2. If Factory Test passed, verify thermistor by performing test procedures outlined in ?Thermistor Test? 3. If problem persists after replacing Moisture Sensor and thermistor

Posted on Aug 27, 2007

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: Takes too long to dry or keeps running when clothes are dry

If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.

Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:

  • The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.

  • When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)

  • The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.

This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But…if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.

Posted on May 09, 2009

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: Sears Kenmore elite quietheat front loading dryer not drying. Moisture builds up on the window inside.

It normally takes about 45 minutes for a dryer to dry a full load. If your dryer is taking more than an hour, check these.

Vent
Heating element
Internal ductwork
Cycling thermostat
Vent Frequently there's an obstruction in the vent duct from the dryer to the outside of the house. For the dryer to heat properly, the duct must be clean and clear of lint or any other substance.

Heating element Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace it.

Internal ductwork Your dryer has some internal ductwork. If it gets clogged, your dryer can't dry properly. In most dryers, to get to the internal ductwork to clear the clog, you have to substantially disassemble the dryer. A quick way to check for internal clogs is to remove the lint filter and use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the duct. If it looks clogged and you can't clear it using your vacuum, contact a qualified appliance repair technician.

Cycling thermostat Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork with two screws.

Posted on May 28, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: kenmore elite 110 62974100, it heats up and the

kenmore dryer elite he model 110- runs but has no heat

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Turning Off before clothes are dry...

Repair of a Kenmore Electric Dryer Model 110.62942100
Dryer not heating

I just spent several hours repairing my electric clothes dryer, and wanted to share my experience with others that may wish to do a similar repair. Some of my time was spent reading online postings similar to this one. The majority of my time was spent driving a few times to the Sears Parts Outlet, until I finally got all of the right parts. I could have saved myself a lot of time and effort by doing some simple testing up front. And these tests are real simple, which I will explain below. I wish I knew then what I know now about the repair and troubleshooting steps. It was actually quite easy.

First, the Owner’s Manual is vague about the repair. Under troubleshooting, there is the category of “Not Drying Satisfactorily” with a possible cause that “One fuse is blown or circuit breaker is tripped. The dryer will appear to operate, but you will not get any heat.” The solution says “Replace fuse or reset breaker”. In my case, the circuit breaker was obviously not tripped since the blower motor and controls were still working on the dryer. With that, it felt like the Thermal Fuse 3390719 was the culprit.

Start by unplugging the dryer. Then, the Toe Panel at the front bottom of the dryer comes off easily by inserting a flat head screwdriver along the top edge of the panel, about 4” from the left and the right sides. Pull forward as the screwdriver presses on the retaining clips. The panel is supported by two clips at the bottom, and will then just lift off.

What I found when the toe panel was removed was several years of lint, dust, and animal hair. A surprising amount all over. Having seen this, I suggest that part of Spring cleaning is to remove the toe panel and vacuum the inside of a dryer. Next, to reach the thermal fuse easier, remove the black metal lint duct assembly. Start by removing the lint screen from inside the dryer. Then, remove the two ¼” sheet metal screws on the left and the right of the duct. Now, the only thing holding the lint duct in place is a metal clip at the bottom left, which is pinched in place to the dryer frame. I used a flat head screwdriver to pop it off. The lint duct assembly can now be removed. Here also, I was surprised at how much lint had built up inside the duct. Clean it out thoroughly. Any build up can restrict air flow and waste energy, or be a direct cause to the No Heat problems of the dryer due to poor air flow and heat build up.

With the lint duct out of the way, the thermal fuse is accessible on the top right of the blower housing, as well as the Thermistor 3976615 on its right. What I should have done right here is take the blue wires off of the thermal fuse connectors, and tested it in place for continuity with the fuse still in place. Clean off any dust built up on the inner face of the fuse itself. A basic tester sounded a beep when I touched both connectors, which indicates continuity – or that it is still a good fuse. Install new fuse if needed, and reconnect the wires.

I would do a little more testing first prior to attempting to turn the dryer back on. After all, if the fuse blew, there was a reason. There may still be other things to consider, and you don’t want to risk blowing a brand new fuse.

At this point, I firmly recommend removing the Heater Box and Wire Heater Element assembly. I say this because it actually becomes easier to clean out burnt lint as well as test a few more things. There was enough lint all around and inside this and in the back of the assembly that could have caused overheating due to poor sensor readings.

Start by removing the heat plate at the front. Then, disconnect the six wires from the three devices: heater element, Thermal Cut-Off 3977394 and the Thermostat 3390291. I wrote down the color sequence of the wires to make certain to put them back on the same way. Next, remove the two screws at the bottom of the mounting plate that holds the assembly in place. The heat assembly should now wiggle around some, and be connected at the back of the dryer. There are no screws at the back – all you need to do is rotate the heater assembly counter clockwise about a quarter turn, and it should come out. The entire heater assembly can now be removed from the dryer.

With the Greenlee, I tested for continuity on all three devices: Heater Element, Thermal Cut-Off, and the Thermostat. All three should return an audible beep from the tester, indicating continuity exists. In my case, only the Heater Element was bad and actually had a break in it from overheating. One screw holds the heater element in the housing, so it is easily removed. I had to press on the housing a little to unbind the sides of the heater element, and then it slid right out. The housing can now be cleaned out. Assuming the thermal cut-off and the thermostat tested fine for continuity, all I would do is reach inside the heater housing and clean off the lint and dust build up on these devices, since they appear to be working. Install the new heater element.

While I had everything apart, I cleaned out the flexible duct in the back, vacuumed everywhere inside and out, and even used compressed air to clean out any remaining lint and dust that I could. Reassemble the heater box into the dryer in reverse order. Make sure all of the wires are properly reconnected to all of the devices. Make sure everything is screwed back together properly. Now, reassemble the lint duct by attaching the clip to the dryer and setting the duct in place, and then screwing the two screws back in place. Plug the dryer in and turn it on. If all went well, the heater element should glow orange and there should be heat

Posted on Jul 23, 2010

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Takes too long to dry or keeps running when clothes are dry


If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.

Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:

  • The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.

  • When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)

  • The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.

This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But…if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.

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