Question about Maytag Epic Z and Performance Series 2000 Washer and Dryer Stack Assembly Kit 8572546

1 Answer

The washer will not start. It reads an error code F01.

I stopped the washer prior to the finishing of the spin cycle so I could put another load in. It had one minute left. I tried to start it with another load and it failed. Remaining water in the drum was shop vacced out but to no avail.

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  • Maytag Master
  • 9,472 Answers

The only thing which will solve an F01 error code is a new machine control board. These is a catastrophic control board failure. Here is the board to order.

Posted on Nov 05, 2012

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag washer

3E has something to do with the motor control. Apparently the design of this machine allows a water leak either from the water intake box or down a rubber hose which runs along with the motor wire harness. The water tracks to the harness and motor and shorts the whole mess out. a.k.a. fried motor.
pull the back plate off (3 screws) and look at the motor where the wire harness plugs into it. Notice a bunch of green stuff- that is corrosion from the electrical short circuit causing your problem. See the rust build up on the side rail below the motor (as there will be none on the side adjacent) this is indicative of a water leak.
Our machine started doing this within the first week and we had the "service" people come out and "fix" it, but it appeared they did nothing. When I opened the machine up I discovered the problem when I ohmed out the rotor contacts in the motor wire harness and found it to be open instead of the factory specs of appx 2.5 ohms.
Maytag (now Whirlpool) does not want to send me a new motor and harness because of their bad design. The machine is a sealed unit only 23 months old. Note to all...do not buy Maytag or Whirlpool. That Maytag repair man is sitting on his bum because the company does not care about their consumers and their cheaply made products (sold at high markups).
If you want pictures write me at aboxoffrogs@gmail.com
also in my model I found the troubleshooting guide in the bottom front kick plate. It is a plastic piece you will have to insert a screwdriver into and "pop" off. This will show you how to enter the "secret" trouble shooting codes into the front control panel. And a definition of exactly what 3E means.

Posted on Dec 24, 2007

dh1200s
  • 335 Answers

SOURCE: During spin cycle on Neptune TL, at around 12 minute mark, washer

Hi mgrey,

Thank you for the machine model number confirmation. Who ever offered up the clutch as a possible issue has a clue. Could be the Tub Displacement Sensor but from my experience 10 times out of 10 it’s the clutch. I’ll post this info as a solution, the next question is read the info look at the Service manual and see if you or someone you know that is handy can drop the clutch out of the machine and inspect. They can then evaluate the clutch to see if it’s what I call a soft failure, clean up and re-lube of the Clutch roller bearings. If the clutch roller bearings can be cleaned up and re-lubed and the clutch spring is not broken then you could be back in service today. If you call in a repair service and they have a clue and don’t shotgun parts into the machine the cost could be around $300+ for the clutch and labor. They won’t clean up and re-lube the clutch bearings. Please See this post for clutch maintenance it’s a recent post. I have some Pic’s that show the clutch and a replacement new clutch recommendation if it comes to that. I’m an owner of the machine and can offer phone support if you need. You can contact me at dh1200s@yahoo.com and I can forward you a phone number. Post back anytime and I or someone will be there to help, I hope you can tolerate the down time, so many of these machines are junked for fix that is easy for the average DIY’er. Rich

I'll paste in the basic steps to follow;

Access and remove the Clutch for maintenance
Disconnect 120VAC power cord.
The Service Manual and Sears Parts Direct for reference.
Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.
Remove the front panel see page 41.
Tools required;
3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM
1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt.
5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the SM.
1. Lean the washer back and blocked in that position for a better reach angle. Rotate 3/8” clutch Pulley Bolt CW to remove clutch bolt.
2. Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.
3. Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch, inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. Inspect roller bearings clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with bearing grease.
4. Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in clutch hub.
5. Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.
6. Reseat clutch on spinner shaft and rock back and forth while lifting clutch with upward pressure to reseat clutch. When seated properly you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).
7. Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.
8. Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.


Here are some folks that did this maintenance with positive results.
Positive Fix1/19

Positive Fix 1/18
Positive Fix 3/4
Positive Fix 3/4 different Forum


Posted on Apr 05, 2009

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: MAH 2400 AWW flashing error code "dc"

Hi Pepsi,
"dc" means that the control board is trying to ramp up (that is, send a signal to the motor controller), but has encountered an unbalanced load and so shuts down. Specifically, "dc" means "distribute clothes".

I took this opportunity to upload a Tech and Troubleshooting manual for you. Here is the link for it. Read it carefully. You will be required to perform a "board output" test after placing the machine in "Service Mode".

I gotta tell ya, though. Based on my history with these, I highly suspect that the machine control board has failed. Let me know what you find, OK?

(And don't forget to rate this solution as "FixYA!", deal?

SG
9f7d68a.jpg

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: error code OE does not finish whole cycle

Just resolved same problem...it is the pressure switch aka water level sensor.  OE is overflow error.  Pressure switch is located under top cover on front right hand side.  It is round and has a rubber tube leading down to the drum and a electrical connection to the board.  Paid maytag man to diagnose/install cost me about $150

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

  • 151 Answers

SOURCE: clothes come out from washer soaking wet

The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:

  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.


  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

Posted on May 03, 2009

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First are you sure the error code is 'LE' and not 'tE' which looks very similar. The LE is usually the motor position sensor. Common on older washers. Easy fix. Under $20 part. The tE error is usually the thermistor. Inexpensive part about $6, but can be more complicated to get to. Ad a comment to your question and my answer with error code and I'll reply with more info if needed.

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Machine worked fine last night. This morning spin not working. Have tested it empty, put it in spin program, a funny clicking noise and then nothing, then after a while indicator shows 01 - ie. finished!...


n most washers the F01 error indicates an control board problem. It is like an internal program error.

A power glitch can cause the problem.

One of the things to try is to enter and run a diagnostic cycle, or unplug the machine for 30 mins.

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F01 - There may be an internal problem with the control, attempt a Hard Reset.

Hard Reset - In some cases the control can be non-functioning or may not accept activation from the control panel. To clear and restart the control follow the these steps:

* Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off for 30 seconds.
* Reconnect the unit to the power source by turning the breaker back on or plugging the unit back into the wall outlet.
* Press the Pause/Cancel/Stop button twice to clear the "PF" in the display.
* Start a short cycle to check the operation of the machine by selecting a cycle and pressing and holding the start button until the machine starts.

The F01 generally indicates a failed electronic machine control board.
This error code can sometimes be caused by a glitch or power surge through the electrical lines.
You may be able to clear this code by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes.
If the code returns after plugging the washer back in, then the electronic machine control board will need to be replaced.

The procedure for accessing and replacing this control board is shown in this image...

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkwdftgtbkdgfrwxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/ksrttqdqrxkssrqtgsd/1/1303472/5961857/image12917img-or.jpg

Be sure to unplug the washer before accessing internal components.
When you access the control board, I recommend transferring the wires from the old control board to the new replacement control board one connection at a time.
Once you have all of the wires transferred, remove the old control board and mount the new control board in the washer.
Reassemble and test the washer.

The "F01" error code indicates a communication error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the EEPROM onboard the CCU.
The "F01" can also be displayed if the onboard "Pump Driver" fails to activate.
Generally in order to correct this failure will require replacing the CCU.
There is no way to test and verify if the control board has failed.
The technical data sheet basically states to replace the CCU.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkwdffkrdwtbgwsxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/ksskgsfwrxksrttqdqr/1/1303472/5961857/image12923img-or.gif


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question!$!$!$

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Will not spin under load


F01 - There may be an internal problem with the control, attempt a Hard Reset.

Hard Reset - In some cases the control can be non-functioning or may not accept activation from the control panel. To clear and restart the control follow the these steps:

* Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off for 30 seconds.
* Reconnect the unit to the power source by turning the breaker back on or plugging the unit back into the wall outlet.
* Press the Pause/Cancel/Stop button twice to clear the "PF" in the display.
* Start a short cycle to check the operation of the machine by selecting a cycle and pressing and holding the start button until the machine starts.

The F01 generally indicates a failed electronic machine control board.
This error code can sometimes be caused by a glitch or power surge through the electrical lines.
You may be able to clear this code by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes.
If the code returns after plugging the washer back in, then the electronic machine control board will need to be replaced.

The procedure for accessing and replacing this control board is shown in this image...

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkwdftgtbkdgfrwxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/ksrttqdqrxkssrqtgsd/1/1303472/5961857/image12917img-or.jpg

Be sure to unplug the washer before accessing internal components.
When you access the control board, I recommend transferring the wires from the old control board to the new replacement control board one connection at a time.
Once you have all of the wires transferred, remove the old control board and mount the new control board in the washer.
Reassemble and test the washer.

The "F01" error code indicates a communication error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the EEPROM onboard the CCU.
The "F01" can also be displayed if the onboard "Pump Driver" fails to activate.
Generally in order to correct this failure will require replacing the CCU.
There is no way to test and verify if the control board has failed.
The technical data sheet basically states to replace the CCU.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

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The code is UE

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• The washer has an imbalance
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• Add 1 or 2 similar items to help balance the load.
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Whirlpool Duet Front Loader won't get up to spin speed


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1 Answer

I got an F error code the washer won't start


F01 - There may be an internal problem with the control, attempt a Hard Reset.

Hard Reset - In some cases the control can be non-functioning or may not accept activation from the control panel. To clear and restart the control follow the these steps:

* Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off for 30 seconds.
* Reconnect the unit to the power source by turning the breaker back on or plugging the unit back into the wall outlet.
* Press the Pause/Cancel/Stop button twice to clear the "PF" in the display.
* Start a short cycle to check the operation of the machine by selecting a cycle and pressing and holding the start button until the machine starts.

The F01 generally indicates a failed electronic machine control board.
This error code can sometimes be caused by a glitch or power surge through the electrical lines.
You may be able to clear this code by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes.
If the code returns after plugging the washer back in, then the electronic machine control board will need to be replaced.

The procedure for accessing and replacing this control board is shown in this image...

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkwdftgtbkdgfrwxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/ksrttqdqrxkssrqtgsd/1/1303472/5961857/image12917img-or.jpg

Be sure to unplug the washer before accessing internal components.
When you access the control board, I recommend transferring the wires from the old control board to the new replacement control board one connection at a time.
Once you have all of the wires transferred, remove the old control board and mount the new control board in the washer.
Reassemble and test the washer.

The "F01" error code indicates a communication error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the EEPROM onboard the CCU.
The "F01" can also be displayed if the onboard "Pump Driver" fails to activate.
Generally in order to correct this failure will require replacing the CCU.
There is no way to test and verify if the control board has failed.
The technical data sheet basically states to replace the CCU.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

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