Question about Maytag Epic Z and Performance Series 2000 Washer and Dryer Stack Assembly Kit 8572546
I stopped the washer prior to the finishing of the spin cycle so I could put another load in. It had one minute left. I tried to start it with another load and it failed. Remaining water in the drum was shop vacced out but to no avail.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get 2 Free calls (no credit card required) and instant help on almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, appliances, handyman, and even pets).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Maytag washer
3E has something to do with the motor control. Apparently the design of
this machine allows a water leak either from the water intake box or
down a rubber hose which runs along with the motor wire harness. The
water tracks to the harness and motor and shorts the whole mess out.
a.k.a. fried motor.
pull the back plate off (3 screws) and look at the motor where the wire harness plugs into it. Notice a bunch of green stuff- that is corrosion from the electrical short circuit causing your problem. See the rust build up on the side rail below the motor (as there will be none on the side adjacent) this is indicative of a water leak.
Our machine started doing this within the first week and we had the "service" people come out and "fix" it, but it appeared they did nothing. When I opened the machine up I discovered the problem when I ohmed out the rotor contacts in the motor wire harness and found it to be open instead of the factory specs of appx 2.5 ohms.
Maytag (now Whirlpool) does not want to send me a new motor and harness because of their bad design. The machine is a sealed unit only 23 months old. Note to all...do not buy Maytag or Whirlpool. That Maytag repair man is sitting on his bum because the company does not care about their consumers and their cheaply made products (sold at high markups).
If you want pictures write me at email@example.com
also in my model I found the troubleshooting guide in the bottom front kick plate. It is a plastic piece you will have to insert a screwdriver into and "pop" off. This will show you how to enter the "secret" trouble shooting codes into the front control panel. And a definition of exactly what 3E means.
Posted on Dec 24, 2007
Thank you for the machine model number confirmation. Who ever offered up the clutch as a possible issue has a clue. Could be the Tub Displacement Sensor but from my experience 10 times out of 10 it’s the clutch. I’ll post this info as a solution, the next question is read the info look at the Service manual and see if you or someone you know that is handy can drop the clutch out of the machine and inspect. They can then evaluate the clutch to see if it’s what I call a soft failure, clean up and re-lube of the Clutch roller bearings. If the clutch roller bearings can be cleaned up and re-lubed and the clutch spring is not broken then you could be back in service today. If you call in a repair service and they have a clue and don’t shotgun parts into the machine the cost could be around $300+ for the clutch and labor. They won’t clean up and re-lube the clutch bearings. Please See this post for clutch maintenance it’s a recent post. I have some Pic’s that show the clutch and a replacement new clutch recommendation if it comes to that. I’m an owner of the machine and can offer phone support if you need. You can contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org and I can forward you a phone number. Post back anytime and I or someone will be there to help, I hope you can tolerate the down time, so many of these machines are junked for fix that is easy for the average DIY’er. Rich
I'll paste in the basic steps to follow;
Access and remove the Clutch for maintenance
Disconnect 120VAC power cord.
The Service Manual and Sears Parts Direct for reference.
Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.
Remove the front panel see page 41.
3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM
1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt.
5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the SM.
1. Lean the washer back and blocked in that position for a better reach angle. Rotate 3/8” clutch Pulley Bolt CW to remove clutch bolt.
2. Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.
3. Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch, inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. Inspect roller bearings clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with bearing grease.
4. Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in clutch hub.
5. Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.
6. Reseat clutch on spinner shaft and rock back and forth while lifting clutch with upward pressure to reseat clutch. When seated properly you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).
7. Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.
8. Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.
Here are some folks that did this maintenance with positive results.
Positive Fix 1/18
Positive Fix 3/4
Positive Fix 3/4 different Forum
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
"dc" means that the control board is trying to ramp up (that is, send a signal to the motor controller), but has encountered an unbalanced load and so shuts down. Specifically, "dc" means "distribute clothes".
I took this opportunity to upload a Tech and Troubleshooting manual for you. Here is the link for it. Read it carefully. You will be required to perform a "board output" test after placing the machine in "Service Mode".
I gotta tell ya, though. Based on my history with these, I highly suspect that the machine control board has failed. Let me know what you find, OK?
(And don't forget to rate this solution as "FixYA!", deal?
Posted on Apr 11, 2009
Just resolved same problem...it is the pressure switch aka water level sensor. OE is overflow error. Pressure switch is located under top cover on front right hand side. It is round and has a rubber tube leading down to the drum and a electrical connection to the board. Paid maytag man to diagnose/install cost me about $150
Posted on Apr 26, 2009
The clothes are wet after spinning
When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
Posted on May 03, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 08, 2016 | Maytag Washing Machines
Jun 24, 2017 | LG WT4870CW 4.5 Cu. Ft. Top Load White...
Aug 26, 2011 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer
n most washers the F01 error indicates an control board problem. It is like an internal program error.
A power glitch can cause the problem.
One of the things to try is to enter and run a diagnostic cycle, or unplug the machine for 30 mins.
Jan 24, 2011 | Bosch Classixx WFO 2866 Front Load Washer
Apr 08, 2010 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Oct 15, 2009 | Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer
Aug 20, 2009 | LG Washing Machines
May 20, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
Feb 15, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
589 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: