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Wiring diagram for Pass & Seymour Switch - Electrical Supplies

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

gotgeek2
  • 565 Answers

SOURCE: I have two pass & seymour 15A 660-wg switches

Yes. The incoming hot wire should connect to the sensor switch with a wirenut. Put another wire under that wirenut and jump it over to the fan switch.

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: Where can I purchase keys for Pass & Seymour

Grainger

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

SOURCE: pass and seymour ws 3000 Hooking up to basement I

You're right, green goes to ground.
Black wire connects to Hot wire from breaker box
Red goes to Load (fan, light, motor)

Ok which wire on the switch goes to the Load?
And which goes to Hot from breaker box?

You can test or you can simply hook up the device. If it doesn't work, swap the two wires.
It just won't work until the 2 wires are correct.

Posted on Oct 24, 2010

SOURCE: I am using a Pass & Seymour illuminated three

I answer questions for free
I work with timers and electrical devices.

If I understand correctly you replaced a 3-way switch.
The new switch has 3 screws (plus green ground screw)
You put the Hot wire on the dark screw correctly.
You attached the two travelers to the brass-colored screws.
The two travelers are red and white.
You connected the ground wire to the green screw.
The ground wire is not supposed to be connected to with the white wire, and I doubt it is because that would trip the breaker.
The lights are working correctly.

If you followed the formula above to the letter, then the lighted switch should light up.
My best guess at this point is that the lighted switch is defective.
The Pass and Seymour webpage does not have manuals to look at like Leviton and Lutron products.
As a result I can't pour over a manual and put a magnifying glass on the wiring and wording to see if there is something we've missed.
But it's just not that complicated ... the light switch should light up.

At this point, I suggest you re-read the instructions (just in case?) and then swap the switch for another one ... or get different brand.

Posted on Nov 04, 2010

SOURCE: How to install Pass & Seymour 5410CC10 sp2

The cord that runs to your light contains two wires.
The cord switch interrupts one wire.
The second wire runs uninterrupted between wall plug and light.

The photo below is not the same switch as yours, but it shows how one wire is interrupted and the other wire is uninterrupted.

geno_3245_26.jpg

Which wire do you want to interrupt?
Look at the wall plug.
Is the plug polarized, where one blade of the plug is wider?
If the plug is polarized, then one blade is wide and the other is narrower.
Each blade of the plug feeds one of the two wires going to lamp.
Locate the narrower blade, and the wire that comes from that side of plug.
The narrow-blade wire is the wire you want to interrupt when installing the cord switch.

If the plug is not polarized, then choose one wire.

Posted on Nov 09, 2010

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I am using a Pass & Seymour illuminated three way light switch. I wired my white and ground wire on one side and the hot wire black to the black painted screw and the red wire below to the brass...


I answer questions for free
I work with timers and electrical devices.

If I understand correctly you replaced a 3-way switch.
The new switch has 3 screws (plus green ground screw)
You put the Hot wire on the dark screw correctly.
You attached the two travelers to the brass-colored screws.
The two travelers are red and white.
You connected the ground wire to the green screw.
The ground wire is not supposed to be connected to with the white wire, and I doubt it is because that would trip the breaker.
The lights are working correctly.

If you followed the formula above to the letter, then the lighted switch should light up.
My best guess at this point is that the lighted switch is defective.
The Pass and Seymour webpage does not have manuals to look at like Leviton and Lutron products.
As a result I can't pour over a manual and put a magnifying glass on the wiring and wording to see if there is something we've missed.
But it's just not that complicated ... the light switch should light up.

At this point, I suggest you re-read the instructions (just in case?) and then swap the switch for another one ... or get different brand.

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Hello anonymous,

I am concerned in so many ways... (USA NEC assumed):
FIRST concern:
(after the obvious BATHROOM/GFCI issue) is the
NATIONAL ELECTRIC CODE for wire/device capacity
INSIDE your existing ELECTRIC box...

The CODE requires wires to have space ... aside
from the fact that it is just plain dangerous to
pack wires densely and pack them together tightly...

Then... of course... You have said nothing about the wire gauge/ampacity... (again assuming 14 Gauge/15 Amp)... you will have to calculate the fill for each wire and check the Cubic Inches Plus your device against the ELECTRICAL BOX rated capacity...

That is just the BASICs of SAFETY.


Looking for a diagram of your
"1595" Legrand Pass & Seymour I have failed miserably.

I have found what YOUR switch looks like...

From an old electrician's standpoint...
If you have EACH device wire separately thru
their respective switches...

There should be NO POWER to operate the FAN.

The FACT that there is ... Is highly PROBLEMATICE.

It would seem that a PREVIOUS ELECTRICIAN
has switched the NEUTRAL side of your
old light circuit... Easy to prove with a VOLT TESTER.

I Recommend KLIEN NCVT (non-contact volt tester)
Klein Tools NCVT 1 Non Contact Voltage Tester Electrical Tools Amazon com

A SWITCHED NEUTRAL
poses an EXTREME hazard in a bathroom
(any water) location but is EASY to fix...

Rip it ALL apart and properly configure all the EXISTING WIRES...

Do it right... Be safe.

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1 Answer

Don't know how to fit the wire into the inside of the switch


Since there are only 2 wires, it doesn't matter which wire goes where. Either way it will work.

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