Salt deposited in the valve damaged the rubber seal. I tried to soak it in vinegar, which helped some, but not enough for me. I took the old seal off and replaced it with a buna-n o-ring, but still leaks as before. I need to locate a new valve.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The problem that you describe is more likely the check valve. Follow the air discharge tube from the pump to the tank. The brass or aluminum fitting at the tank is the checkvalve. Clean debris in valve or replace valve with generic. Should cost about 20 dollars. Make sure that the air discharge tube is clean of carbon deposits so that the new valve will fail. Good luck
Very rare to have problems with rings. Blow-by would produce high pulsating pressure in the crankcase causing oil to blow out the oil filler plug/ dipstick. If normal crank pressure, suspect problem with valves or gaskets. Remove air filter cover and check for air blowing out of intake or very hot head or air discharge tube. Leaking valves or blown gasket will cause low volume/ low pressure and hot discharge air. Remove the in-tank checkvalve and look for carbon deposits /debris build-up. If the checkvalve and the interior or discharge hose are coated with oil deposits /carbon, most likely problem is valve plate/ gaskets /head. Good luck with your repair.
If this is happening when the finger valve is closed, there is a leak either in the rubber tubing or the inflation bulb. Try putting soapy water on the tubing and then on the bulb. Squeeze the bulb with just your thumb and forefinger, so that you can see any air bubbles. If the leak is in the rubber tubing, you may be able to repair it with a couple of laps of vinyl tape. If the bulb is leaking, that will have to be replaced.
Fill it with vinegar and leave to soak overnight/for two nights if really bad. Any parts which are impossible to fill with vinegar - lids/spouts, soak a cloth or tissue in vinegar and wrap/wedge into....and leave to soak overnight.
The ring fits just under the spray arm and the split is normal. When you tore the spray assembly apart, did you clean the screens at the bottom (if white hard-water deposit, soak in 50:50 hot water and white vinegar)? Make sure none of the ports in the deck are plugged with food deposits. Check both spray arms for plugged spray holes or split seams. The upper arm moves from water pressure alone--no motor. Make sure it spins freely by hand. We had to try different detergents to get away from a gritty deposit on glassware. Did you fix the leaking problem? Inspect the gasket seal around the door for damage or hardness and check the latch for holding the door closed firmly. Hope some of this helps!
Usually, a leak at the pressure switch unloader valve is caused by the checkvalve in the tank. The unloader valve at the pressure switch bleeds out the air from discharge tube after compressor reaches set pressure. This only takes a few seconds. If air continues to leak then air is leaking back into the discharge tube past the tank checkvalve. Follow the air discharge line from the compressor to the brass valve at the tank. The brass valve is the checkvalve that holds the pressure in the tank. There are usually two connections at this valve. One is the unloader tube to the pressure switch. Simple test for leaking checkvalve, with pressure in tank unplug or switch off the compressor and remove the small unloader line at the checkvalve(brass valve) and look/listen for leak. If leaking, remove the checkvalve and examine seat/check for debris keeping the valve slightly open. If it cannot be cleaned, order generic replacement from www.grainger.com. It will cost less than the factory checkvalve. Just pay attention to the thread sizes for easy fit. Good Luck on your repair and email if you have questions.
I have replaced countless checkvalves that were stuck open due to debris produced/ejected by the compressor. Most frequent problem was carbon deposits due to wrong type of oil in compessor. The carbon deposits form inside head and discharge hose. All carbon must be cleaned from head and hose when new checkvalve is installed. Use synthetic oil in compressor to prevent carbon deposit. Leaky valves and gaskets in the pump will also casue problems because this greatly increases the air temp discharged from the compressor. I use checkvalves pruchased from www.grainger.com. and not the sears valve. Good Luck
Slow fill problems can usually be attributed to a clogged or defective water inlet valve (also known as a mixing valve). If you live in an area that has hard water, or if you are using well water, there's a good chance you have sediment or rust build up in the water inlet valve. Sometimes a good cleaning is all that takes to correct this problem. The inlet valve is located where the fill hoses are connected. Accessing it will depend upon the make and model of you washer. Since you posted no model number, the instructions I'm providing are generic in nature. If you wish to clean the valve, do the following:
1. Unplug the washer and turn off the water supply at the taps.
2. Disconnect the fill hoses and inspect the sediment screens on the fill valve (located on the back of the washer).
3. Using cottom swabs, you can clean the sediment screens using some distilled vinegar. If the valve is heavily encrusted with hard water deposits, using a toothpick (along with the distilled vinegar) can help break up these deposits and clear the screens.
You may have to remove the entire inlet valve and let it soak in distilled vinegar to break up serious deposits. If it comes to that, open the washer to access the fill valve and disconnect the electrical connectors on the valve solenoids (there's usually two of them). Remove the rubber hose leading to the dispenser, and then remove the mounting screw(s) holding the valve in place. It comes out pretty easily. DO NOT submerge the entire valve when allowing it to soak. Keep the solenoid connectors as dry as possible. If the vinegar does not work, you may try some retail products that get rid of scale, rust and lime deposits. Although I do not get into the business of promoting any one product over another, CLR comes to mind as a product that does work well.
If you do not wish to go through all of this and/or cleaning does not work for you. It is recommended that you replace the valve. Let me know what you decide to and I can assist you further. I hope this is helpful to you.
PS A replacement water inlet valve generally costs in the neighborhood of $30 - $50.