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Hi Susan ! If you look under the fridge at the front you can see the front two feet at either side. Both of these feet are adjustable, a collar on a threaded PVC foot with normally a straight roller at the bottom. You will need to roll the fridge out a little and using some one to help tilt the fridge back a little to get your hand on to the collar. Some are able to be turned with just your fingers with out tilting the fridge but it is easier with the weight off them. If door self closes the fridge is tilting back, tilting forward the door will stay open. Now by loosening or typically threading the collar anti-clockwise the foot height will reduce and the fridge will become more level and the door will close slower. As you get it just right to your personal liking just wiggle the fridge a little and make sure all the feet are touching the ground. The use of a level and patience can have you set it up just right for you.
I hope this helps as myself being a fridgy like my fridge door a certain way, customers like sometimes know how they like it and there is the way the fridge is ideally installed.
The main thing that makes a fridge door shut is that it falls shut because it is set at a slight angle with the front of the machine higher than the back. You may find the solution is as simple as making the fridge tip back a tiny bit more by turning the front feet clockwise to screw them out of the chassis and make them longer, causing the fridge to tip back a little and the door to fall shut as it should.
The fridge needs to be leveled better...
When the doors swing open then gravity takes over and pulls the doors open the rest of the way...
to fix this adjust the legs of the fridge so that it leans just a bit away from the hinge side and back just a bit...then the doors will swing closed by themselves...
The back legs may have to be shimmed and the front leg adjustments are usually right behind the front cover at the floor...sometimes there are screws there to adjust the back legs from the front also...
The lower hinge on each door may have a door closing cam. It raises the door up ¼ inch when opening and this assist in closing the door. If it's wore out and doesn't work the door may not seal and the gasket can be damaged. Watch the operation of the door to see if it rises up when opened.
Leave the door shut and let the magnetic gasket hold the door in place. Put something between the bottom of the door and the floor to hold it in case it slips. Remove the bracket holding the pin and hinge assembly taking note of order of removal of parts. Slide new cams on. You probably need two.
TAKE A HAIR DRYER AND HEAT THE SEAL WITH IT OPEN THE DOOR SO YOU GET TO THE WHOLE THING GET PRETTY HOT THEN CLOSE THE DOOR AND DO NOT OPEN UNTIL THE SEAL COOLS IT SOUNDS CRAZY BU MY WIFE MADE A BELIEVER OUT OF ME I WAS LAUGHING UNTILL SHE DID IT AND IT WORKED OF COURSE SHE LOVED THAT BUT HEY EVERYBODY HAS SOMETHING TO CONTRIBUTE SOME TIMES
Just a guess, but I would check the gasket on the door. They can go bad or get distorted and bunch up and cause the door to bind and not close properly. Also check that the fridge is leveled properly. Will the door close if pushed? Will it stay closed?
Could be the air pressure created from shutting the refer door is popping open the other one. There are are channels between the two so cool air from the freezer gets to the refer compartment. Try this as a test... s l o w l y close the refer door and see if that keeps the other door from popping open. If that works then it's likely an air channel is frozen up somewhere and you may need to turn the unit off for a day or so to let it thaw out. Moisture from leaking door seals, or doors that were left slightly open overnight can be sucked in and freeze up the air channels. I don't know if you are sort of slamming the door shut or not but the doors need to be shut slowly due to how air tight the new refers are.