Question about Mamiya Instant Cameras

1 Answer

Taking apart and putting back the freznel screen of a Mamyia 220

When taking apart the Freznel screen of my C220 to clean it three small silver metal washers droppedout, but when replacing everything I was unsure of the correct positioning of three small metal washers, and two black cardboard spacers, one spacer is slightly thicker than the other.The spacers fit under the Mamyia logo and level out the focusing screen. Is an exploded diagram available to clarify exactly where they fit?.

Many thanks

Kridon Panteli

Posted by on

  • imaging817 May 14, 2009

    Many Thanks for your reply

    K.Panteli


×

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Champion:

    An expert who has answered 200 questions.

    Scholar:

    An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.

  • Expert
  • 216 Answers

Those are spacers for equal plane for all corners.

Without the service manual, then you are up the river without ...

Just try to put spacer(s) on one side more than the other and close it up. Now look thru the viewfinder with lenses attached and check for sharpness.

If you're doing lots of cloe-up or macro, then those spacers are needed. If you can't correct problem, just shoot at F5.6 or higher.

You will have to remove or add spacer(s) by using T & E methods.

eltroman
atdlee@netzero.com

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

! Protected card reads on my screen when I turn on camera..I tried taking card out several times and put back in


Take the memory card out of your camera and look at it. SD cards have a slide switch along one edge. The position farthest from the contacts locks the card, protecting it from writes. The position nearest the contacts unlocks the card.

May 21, 2011 | Fuji Instant Cameras

1 Answer

The camera was unused for several years.


Try to clean the battery contacts on the camera as it became rusty as well. Then install brand new batteries.

Mar 24, 2010 | Polaroid i-Zone Pocket Instant Camera

2 Answers

How do I replace drivebelt on sankyo dualux 1000 projector


Inside parts:
Small belt wheel (SBW)
Large belt wheel (LBW)
Motor Assembly (MA)
Fan Blades (FB)
Fan Blade Cover (FBC)
Make sure you have magnetic screwdrivers.
Remove MA - 4 screws.
Remove FBC - three screws
Loosen LBW and slide down shaft a small bit away from end. Need small Allen wrench.
Slip new belt around LBW (takes some fiddling).
Put LBW back to previous local and tighten.
Reattach FBC.
Put motor in place.
Stretch belt over FB and onto SBW. (It will make it.)
Screw in motor.
Good luck.

Feb 21, 2010 | Instant Cameras

1 Answer

I put new roll of film in the camera and it was sucked back into the film cannister and now can't unroll film to start


Well it is not a big problem. Visit a photo studio and tell then to for leaf out of the roll and load it in your camera. You can't take out that starting point of the roll at home. Because you don't have the small machine. After that put the roll back in your camera.
Now i am going to say most important things.
click few (4-5) snaps using a cover in front of your lens. Then click normally for taking photos.
Thanks.

Feb 02, 2010 | Instant Cameras

1 Answer

Pictures


It's quite complicated to explain in detail, and there are a number of different processes, but I can start by saying how the essential chemistry of B&W processing works.

A film emulsion contains tiny crystals of a silver halide (Silver chloride, bromide etc.) contained in a layer of gelatin, coated on a plastic backing. Silver halides are sensitive to light.

There are other layers such as an anti-reflection layer behind the light sensitive layer to prevent light being scattered back to produce a 'halo' around bright areas, (Anti-halation layer) and a scratch resistant layer on the front.

Additionally dye chemicals are added which enhance the halides sensitivity to red light, to which otherwise it would be insensitive. These are known as dye sensitisers.

Only imprefections in the crystals are actually sensitive, as these contain silver ions which are not fully bound to the halogen. When a photon interacts with the crystal near the sensitve site an electron is released which can reduce the ion to a single atom of silver.

These single atoms ar enot enough to produce a visible image, but comprise a latent image within the emulsion. In order to make the latent image visible we must amplify the latent image in some way. This is done chemically by a process known as development.

There are a number of chemicals formulations which can be used as developers (including urine!), but all are chemical reducing agents. (Opposite of oxidising agents.) These convert the silver halide to metallic silver.

It so happens that for many reducing agents metallic silver acts as a catalyst, so where there is silver the reaction proceeds faster than where there is not. Of course as more silver is produced the greater the catalytic action, so the develoment process accellerated as it progesses.

This forms clumps of silver around the original silver atoms. These clumps consist of very small grains of silver, finer than any powder and these appear black. These form a negative image. (Black where light fell on the film.)

(These tiny grains are not what photgraphers refer to as 'grain'. In fact the 'grain' in a photograph is more to do with the distribution of development sites, and the random nature of the arrival of individual photons.)

Most developers are realtively benign chemicals but some are toxic and carcinogenic. These are not used much these days but are still availble.

Unfortunatley this is quite a slow process, and there is a tendency to also reduce unexposed halides somewhat. This produces an overall 'fog' to the immage. To minimise this and speed the process up an accellerator is usally added.

Accellerators are alkalis. Some formulas use quite strong alkalis like sodium hydroxide, but others use rather innoccuos substances like borax.

Development continues until the developing chemical is removed or the chemicals are exhausted. If the film is developed too much than the silver clumps begin to overlap and you get a completly black area. Further development does not make those areas any blacker even if more silver is produced!


This process is of course conducted entirely in darkness.

Most formulations use both developer and acellerator together, but sometimes these are used separatley to give better controll of the negative density. Here the emulsion is soaked in the developer, and transferred to the accellerator bath. This limits the amount of developer in the negative so heavily exposed areas do not develop as much. This allow a scene with a wider range of brightness to be recorded.

(Note that the film itself can record a much wider range in the latent image, than can be developed.)

Normally development is stopped by immersing the film in an acidic bath, which reacts with the accellerator as well as washing away developer.

The anti-halation layer dyes are usually washed out during develpment.

Of course this still leaves undeveloped silver halides in the emulsion. These are removed by fixing the image.

This is necesary for two reasons. First in a film the halide crystals have a whilte milky appearance. You need light to shine through a film duing enlargement, so that's no good. Alxo the halide will eventually turn black on exposure to light.

Fixing the image usually is a matter of washing the negative in a soultion of sodium thiosuphate. (Comonly called 'hypo'.) Silver halides are only very poorly soluble in water, but sodium thiosulhpates affinity for soft metal ions overcomes this reaction with the silver, to produce sodium halide. If this is silver chloride you get salt!)

To get a print, you expose paper treated on one surface with an emulsion, to a projected image of the enlarger and develop that in a similar way.

So there you have it. Color is a bit more complicated involving layer with different sesitivity to colored light, and dyes which are produced by the action of delvelopers.

For more details start with http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photography

Jan 13, 2009 | Fuji Endeavor 200ix Zoom APS Point and...

1 Answer

'ERR"


Could be many different issues.
What camera is it?
When you put a lens on it, is the view finder quite dark?

Oct 27, 2008 | Instant Cameras

1 Answer

Product description of olympus XA1 Camera with Elec.Flash A9M


To open the camera, you need to close the lens, then with the rewind mechanism, flip open the handle and lift the whole rewind mechanism and the handle and it will open the back of the camera. I hope this helps.

Oct 11, 2008 | Instant Cameras

1 Answer

Mamyia rz 67 pro II


I've got the same problem :-( Help would be appreciated.

Apr 03, 2008 | Mamiya Instant Cameras

3 Answers

Broken flash


okay my holga flash was broken too....the batteries were working just fine cus when i turned it on, the little back light came on and the whining sound happened, but then click...no flash! so i took the back off and made a small repair and it worked!

so this is how to fix it (if its the same problem...i.e. everything electrical is working but the actual flash):

use a small screwdriver to remove the two small screws inside the camera (take out the frame and they are on the bottom and top). the front will pop off and you should be able to see the wiring.

ebbee78.jpg

where i circled in red was the problem. that curved metal piece at the bottom was too straight and was not making contact with the shutter (the top little metal prod sticking outta the circle) when i clicked it. so just bend it forward to how it looks in the picture...then do a practice click to make sure it makes contact. you can even try it with the batteries in, but be careful!! its electricity!

hope this helps!!

Aug 19, 2006 | Holga 120CFN Film Camera

Not finding what you are looking for?

Open Questions:

Instant Cameras Logo

Related Topics:

250 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Mamiya Instant Cameras Experts

kakima

Level 3 Expert

96417 Answers

JOHN TOPLISS

Level 2 Expert

135 Answers

Ric Donato

Level 2 Expert

225 Answers

Are you a Mamiya Instant Camera Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...