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Whirlpool ultimate care II, model LSQ8243HQO. Won't spin, loud noise

Washer is not spinning and was making a terrible noise. I took everything out of the washer (it was full of heavy towels) and tried it again. Washer still did not spin and made same noise

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: washer won't drain, makes loud noise

This problem, or some variation thereof evidently is very common with these Whirlpool Washers!  I have same problem.  So far, best I have found is at  http://applianceguru.com/forum2/5958.html#
diagnosis by someone who knows.  What William Burk says there makes sense.  However, to get to the drive block there's quite a bit of disassembly required.  I am stopped because I cannot get the spanner nut off.  Hope this gives you some help toward finding a more comprehensive answer



Posted on Jul 05, 2008

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mark_37388
  • 100 Answers

SOURCE: Washer won't spin, but making funny noise and water drains

You have a broke motor coupling broken between the motor and transmission the part is not expencive but a little hard to explain how to put it in.

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Ultimate Care Heavy Duty Washer will not spin

It sounds like you have a broken motor coupling. This is a very inexpensive and simple repair.

If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385252-replacing_motor_coupling_whirlpool_top
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSN300PWO Grinding/no spin/agitation

HI. the first action is to test the lid switch. The lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating.

If the lid switch is operational, i would move on to the next possible issue. This will be the motor coupler.

Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission
. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.

Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.

There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.

Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.

***(I would suggest to check the following while you are in the area for faults as well(((Clutch,motor,motor board,transmission))). inspect these areas thoroughly)

Ok, if all the above checks out ok and, there are no signs of damage to any of the above parts stated, this will confirm a timer control module malfunction. replace the control device(timer or control board) asap, if possible.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

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oldTech2332
  • 2341 Answers

SOURCE: I have the Whirlpool Ultimate

sounds to me like the motor coupling is broken,this youtube video will show you how to replace it
http://youtu.be/9K1KHEogf3c

Posted on Jul 22, 2011

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