Question about Coleman Powermate Powermate 5000W Generator

With no load on 240 volt output it measures 140 volts. What causes this?

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Bad capacitor in the alternator field or a short in the rotor / stator

Posted on Nov 15, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Generator output

Hi, You don't say whether this is under load or not but if not is within the acceptable range, which is +/- 10% . Generally speaking, voltage on a generator is not the issue but the load which it will carry, hence their wattage ratings. Measure your household voltage and you will see that it varies from day to day but usually stays within the limits and your electrical panel is rated in amperage. Hope this answers your question!

Posted on Feb 08, 2009

If you need 240 volts only, it should work. If the tanner uses both 120/240, (which I would expect), you will need 10/3 with ground (it appears in the jpeg that you are using 10/2 with ground).

For 240 volts, 10/2 has two conductors,. Measuring with a voltmeter between each leg you get 240 volts. With 10/3 the third conductor is a neutral (there is no neutral in a 120 volt circuit). This carries the unbalanced load between the two legs and allows the appliance to use 120 volts as well. The conductor coloring is usually black, red for the power legs and a white grounded conductor (with a bare, grounding conductor).

If the cord has four pins , it needs 10/3 with ground. If it has three pins (240 volt only) the recept is probably wired wrong.

For 240 volts, 10/2 has two conductors,. Measuring with a voltmeter between each leg you get 240 volts. With 10/3 the third conductor is a neutral (there is no neutral in a 120 volt circuit). This carries the unbalanced load between the two legs and allows the appliance to use 120 volts as well. The conductor coloring is usually black, red for the power legs and a white grounded conductor (with a bare, grounding conductor).

If the cord has four pins , it needs 10/3 with ground. If it has three pins (240 volt only) the recept is probably wired wrong.

Jun 16, 2017 | Electrical Supplies

The typical lousy power source for this system is likely defective. They will normally rise to 140-150% of nominal voltage (24V) and settle around the required voltage when loaded.

Check the supply (if separate) for a rating of voltage and current; for example: "24VDC/XXMa" where the 'XX' is the current that will either be in milliamperes or amperes.

To correctly measure the voltage, you must know first if it's output is AC or DC.

If this is a DC supply, it probably has a failed diode, if AC, the transformer is bad.

A less likely, but possible problem, is that the programmer itself has an internal failure and is overloading the supply.

If you have a meter with a separate 10A jack, and you can interrupt either side of the supply line, try measuring the load current.

This will however, only be possible if the 10A can measure both AC and DC or if you know that the supply output is DC.

Check the supply (if separate) for a rating of voltage and current; for example: "24VDC/XXMa" where the 'XX' is the current that will either be in milliamperes or amperes.

To correctly measure the voltage, you must know first if it's output is AC or DC.

If this is a DC supply, it probably has a failed diode, if AC, the transformer is bad.

A less likely, but possible problem, is that the programmer itself has an internal failure and is overloading the supply.

If you have a meter with a separate 10A jack, and you can interrupt either side of the supply line, try measuring the load current.

This will however, only be possible if the 10A can measure both AC and DC or if you know that the supply output is DC.

Nov 22, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

INSPECT BATTERY ELECTROLYTE LEVEL

INSPECT BATTERY CABLES/TERMINALS

LOAD TEST BATTERY,_______VOLTS @ 150 AMPS (Min SPEC 10.2 VOLTS @ 150 AMPS.)

INSPECT BELT(s),

TEST ALTERNATOR OUTPUT (ON THE VEHICLE,'NOT' BENCH TESTED),

1 _____AMPS @ 12 VOLTS @ 2500 RPM w/PLOW not ENGAGED

2 _____AMPS @ 12 VOLTS @ 2500 RPM w/PLOW ENGAGED ALT OUTPUT SPEC ????

INSPECT BATTERY CABLES/TERMINALS

LOAD TEST BATTERY,_______VOLTS @ 150 AMPS (Min SPEC 10.2 VOLTS @ 150 AMPS.)

INSPECT BELT(s),

TEST ALTERNATOR OUTPUT (ON THE VEHICLE,'NOT' BENCH TESTED),

1 _____AMPS @ 12 VOLTS @ 2500 RPM w/PLOW not ENGAGED

2 _____AMPS @ 12 VOLTS @ 2500 RPM w/PLOW ENGAGED ALT OUTPUT SPEC ????

Feb 04, 2014 | GMC Sierra Cars & Trucks

It is possible that the unit needs to see a battery load before it engages the charge circuit. To test this measure the voltage of the battery without the charger. Then attach the charger and measure the voltage again. If the charger is working the voltage should be 13 to 14 volts.

Jul 26, 2013 | HP Pavilion ze5185 Notebook

No it is not typical, you never indicated if you are measuring it under load or not. Repeat that test under 1/4 load and see if they even out.

Feb 03, 2013 | Kohler 12 kW Emergency Power System -...

So there is a problem. Where are you measuring voltage?

Say there is L1 - N - L2. Line1 to Neutral is 120 volts, Line2 to Neutral is also 120 volts, Line1 to Line2 is 240 volts. N or Neutral ( the grounded conductor ) is center tap between line 1 and 2.

With this system, the N wire carries the unbalanced load in amperes .

Now we are talking of L1 and L2 and amperes. When L1 and L2 are conducting 10 amperes each, N carries 0 amperes, Line1 and L2 are balanced. When L1 carries 10 amperes and L2 carries 5 amperes, Line1 N carries 5 amperes, the difference of L1 and L2. This is normal.

When there is a problem with a loose connection on N, there is a resistance and will not carry the unbalanced load normally, the voltages will Chang's under load, the problem will worsen with time, a fire hazard, connected loads may burn up from excessive voltage or not work at all.

Bottom line: Make sure the N line ( white wire ) is tight at every connection and inspect for overheating damage. You may have to open the generator connections panel to check there too.

Say there is L1 - N - L2. Line1 to Neutral is 120 volts, Line2 to Neutral is also 120 volts, Line1 to Line2 is 240 volts. N or Neutral ( the grounded conductor ) is center tap between line 1 and 2.

With this system, the N wire carries the unbalanced load in amperes .

Now we are talking of L1 and L2 and amperes. When L1 and L2 are conducting 10 amperes each, N carries 0 amperes, Line1 and L2 are balanced. When L1 carries 10 amperes and L2 carries 5 amperes, Line1 N carries 5 amperes, the difference of L1 and L2. This is normal.

When there is a problem with a loose connection on N, there is a resistance and will not carry the unbalanced load normally, the voltages will Chang's under load, the problem will worsen with time, a fire hazard, connected loads may burn up from excessive voltage or not work at all.

Bottom line: Make sure the N line ( white wire ) is tight at every connection and inspect for overheating damage. You may have to open the generator connections panel to check there too.

Aug 06, 2017 | Electrical Supplies

Ohm's law tells us that: volts = amps x resistance and watts =volts x amps. Watts (300) = volts (240) x Amps (?); or 300 / 240 = 1.25 Amps That means the inverter can supply up to 1.25 Amps to a 240 volt load.

The primary is 12 volts, this is just 1/20th of the secondary 240 volt output. Since the best you can ever get is 100% efficiency -this means you'll need to supply 20 times the current. 1.25 Amps (at 240V) x 20 = 25 Amps (at 12V). As a check, from above Ohm's law that states Watts=Volts X Amps we get: 12VDC x 25Amps = 300Watts. Check!

Some side notes. The Ohms law used above is for DC circuits and purely resistive loads on AC circuits. I do not know what your 1.25 A @ 240VAC load is - but I suspect it won't be purely resistive. Also, since we're working with an electronic inverter as opposed to a transformer and DC rectifier there are some things that push losses higher. You might need to provide a 30 Amp 12 VDC source voltage in order to provide the 1.25A @ 240VAC output. Lastly, I wouldn't not run the output at maximum for long periods of time - or at all. 1 Amp @ 240VAC would be much better.

I hope this answered your question & good luck! Please rate my reply - thank you.

The primary is 12 volts, this is just 1/20th of the secondary 240 volt output. Since the best you can ever get is 100% efficiency -this means you'll need to supply 20 times the current. 1.25 Amps (at 240V) x 20 = 25 Amps (at 12V). As a check, from above Ohm's law that states Watts=Volts X Amps we get: 12VDC x 25Amps = 300Watts. Check!

Some side notes. The Ohms law used above is for DC circuits and purely resistive loads on AC circuits. I do not know what your 1.25 A @ 240VAC load is - but I suspect it won't be purely resistive. Also, since we're working with an electronic inverter as opposed to a transformer and DC rectifier there are some things that push losses higher. You might need to provide a 30 Amp 12 VDC source voltage in order to provide the 1.25A @ 240VAC output. Lastly, I wouldn't not run the output at maximum for long periods of time - or at all. 1 Amp @ 240VAC would be much better.

I hope this answered your question & good luck! Please rate my reply - thank you.

Mar 09, 2011 | Electronics - Others

There are different brands of gas generators with 3500 Watts and 240 volts output that you can order from this site plus shipment in your country.

http://www.thefind.com/query.php?query=gas+generators+3500+Watts+240+volts

I hope that solve your problem

Please give this solution a good ratings!

Thank you for using Fixya.

http://www.thefind.com/query.php?query=gas+generators+3500+Watts+240+volts

I hope that solve your problem

Please give this solution a good ratings!

Thank you for using Fixya.

Aug 20, 2010 | Computers & Internet

The reason for the 120/240 volt outlet is to be able to run things like large electric heaters or even your clothes dryer as they all require 240 volts. If you use it as 240 volts you will not have maximum current output on your other outlets so you wouldn't be able to plug anything really big in. And yes you can only use is as a 120V output if you would like but you will need a special attachment or extension cord. I'm going to leave you with two reference pages I looked up that you should have a look at.

http://www.powermate.com/generators/product_detail.php?model=PM0435003&cat_id=3&w=59

http://www.powermate.com/accessories/product_detail.php?cat_id=9&model=PA0650192

http://www.powermate.com/generators/product_detail.php?model=PM0435003&cat_id=3&w=59

http://www.powermate.com/accessories/product_detail.php?cat_id=9&model=PA0650192

May 24, 2010 | Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W...

Check for 24 volts AC at the coil. If you do not have 24 volts at the coil (with AC turned on at your thermostat), then your problem is not with your contactor, but rather a control problem. If you have 24 volts at the coil, check for 240 volts on the LINE side (commonly marked L1 & L2) of your contactor. If you do not have 240 volts, check for open fuse or tripped or bad circuit breaker. If you have 240 volts, check for 240 volts at the LOAD side of your contactor (Commonly marked T1 & T2). With 24 volts on your coil and 240 volts on the LINE side, you should have 240 volts on the LOAD side. If not, the contactor is not making contact.

You can also perform a continuity test as shown in this video:

You can also perform a continuity test as shown in this video:

May 23, 2010 | Ruud UAKA030 Air Conditioner

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