Question about Fisher and Paykel Dishwashers
If the display is blank then that does not necessarily mean there is no power.Please check the panel located at top inside the door. If that too is blank then the controller could be faulty or the power coming to the controller could have cut off. One reason might be the heater fuse is blown. This is located within the heater element and the whole heater assembly needs to be replaced. Alternatively, the power filter is blown. This is located at the base of the dish drawer assembly under the drawer. If you are not familiar with repairing dishwashers, you will need to call the technician.
Posted on Nov 05, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
you have to remove the bottom drawer and remove the water from the base.theres two push in tabs on the bottom sides dd603 or if its a dd602/601 theres plugs that pull out remove them and the front panel the drawer will lift out far enough to get access.but you may find its leaking.hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 20, 2008
SOURCE: dish drawer leaks Fisher Paykel
When water accumulates in the bottom it triggers an error code and it keeps running. There is a water sensor in the bottom. I pull out the bottom drawer, mop up the water and use a hair dryer to dry the water (the more you mop up the less you need the hair dryer). Be careful to not get any of the plastic too hot. Kill the power before messing with the unit. The first time I did this it took 20 minutes to dry out. I have gotten more proficient and it take about 5 minutes now.
I had a water leak which was due to the rinse agent cap not being completely sealed. Water leaked out of a small hole in the front (I'm guessing an air vent but don't know for sure) and flooded the bottom.
I also had a leak due to having too tall a dish in the drawer and the top not sealing. I currently have a leak on the top drawer of unknown origin, but the bottom drawer still works.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 10, 2008
F1 indicates a problem with the Flood sensor. I cleaned all the filters etc. removed the drawer viewed under the drawer, it was dry. There is nothing further I can do, so called the Appliances repair person and booked an appointment for him to determine if an outlet hose is blocked or has a hole in it or whatever. Thanks for all the suggestions Blokes. I'm technically challenged. Happy New Year
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
First have the unit turned off. Then
open up the drawer that,s giving you trouble.
The badge ought to be lit.
Now simultaneously press the static touch pads on each end of the led status lites (the ones on the drawer top?) (Cycle Select, and Eco-sensor pads)
Hold them for about 5 seconds.Now If you have a metal front machine, the badge display will either show HP or LP. Assuming you have normal water pressure about 50 - 70 psi you want to select the HP setting.
Do that by pressing the start button till you get what you want, then press power off to lock the setting in.
Posted on Mar 06, 2010
Testimonial: "problem solved thank you very much for the info"
Make sure that the retaining tabs on either side of the drawer at the lower front are engaged properly. They sometimes don't positively engage and you will feel the difference when the drawer is pushed. Undo the tabs and re-engage them a couple of times to check. The drawer should run smoothly without resistance when they are engaged correctly. Check how the lower drawer moves to compare.
If the drawer is returning smoothly but feels like it's striking resistance towards the rear just before it's fully home, it's likely that the hoses are kinking/fouling behind the drawer and/or that the linkage support is broken.
If you have this older style white plastic linkage rods that hold the hoses, I would strongly recommend replacing it. It's the white plastic rod that has clamps attached to it with all the power, inlet and drainage hoses running through it.
You can get the 'retro fit linkage support' from an authorised F&P parts supplier. This is a retro fit that has specifically been designed to overcome the shortfalls of the original plastic linkage support. This consists of a metal rod and mounting plate with takes over the function of the plastic drainage support.
There are detailed instrucitons with the retro fit support which explains how to fit it. It was well under $100 when I bought one and worth the investment.
Good luck and remember always turn the power off before attempting any repairs.
Posted on Jul 10, 2010
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