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My dryer Bosch maxx 7 doesn't work

My dryer Bosch maxx 7 works just for a few minutes and than switches itself off.Than is overally off for half an hour. After all everything repeats. does anyone know what is the problem? thanks a lot for reaction.

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  • Dryers Master
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That is a bad motor. It is overheating and the overload is shutting it down. Check to see if there is lint buildup on the motor. If not, you will need a new motor.

Posted on Nov 05, 2012

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My Bosch Maxx6 Sensitive dryer start to work in every program you put it,but after 3or4minutes it stops and shows on the little screen F:09and makes the signal beep-beep like it has finished drying.I cleaned the filters,I did everything,but it's the same problem.What can I do to solve this problem?

Posted on Apr 07, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Turning Off before clothes are dry...

Repair of a Kenmore Electric Dryer Model 110.62942100
Dryer not heating

I just spent several hours repairing my electric clothes dryer, and wanted to share my experience with others that may wish to do a similar repair. Some of my time was spent reading online postings similar to this one. The majority of my time was spent driving a few times to the Sears Parts Outlet, until I finally got all of the right parts. I could have saved myself a lot of time and effort by doing some simple testing up front. And these tests are real simple, which I will explain below. I wish I knew then what I know now about the repair and troubleshooting steps. It was actually quite easy.

First, the Owner’s Manual is vague about the repair. Under troubleshooting, there is the category of “Not Drying Satisfactorily” with a possible cause that “One fuse is blown or circuit breaker is tripped. The dryer will appear to operate, but you will not get any heat.” The solution says “Replace fuse or reset breaker”. In my case, the circuit breaker was obviously not tripped since the blower motor and controls were still working on the dryer. With that, it felt like the Thermal Fuse 3390719 was the culprit.

Start by unplugging the dryer. Then, the Toe Panel at the front bottom of the dryer comes off easily by inserting a flat head screwdriver along the top edge of the panel, about 4” from the left and the right sides. Pull forward as the screwdriver presses on the retaining clips. The panel is supported by two clips at the bottom, and will then just lift off.

What I found when the toe panel was removed was several years of lint, dust, and animal hair. A surprising amount all over. Having seen this, I suggest that part of Spring cleaning is to remove the toe panel and vacuum the inside of a dryer. Next, to reach the thermal fuse easier, remove the black metal lint duct assembly. Start by removing the lint screen from inside the dryer. Then, remove the two ¼” sheet metal screws on the left and the right of the duct. Now, the only thing holding the lint duct in place is a metal clip at the bottom left, which is pinched in place to the dryer frame. I used a flat head screwdriver to pop it off. The lint duct assembly can now be removed. Here also, I was surprised at how much lint had built up inside the duct. Clean it out thoroughly. Any build up can restrict air flow and waste energy, or be a direct cause to the No Heat problems of the dryer due to poor air flow and heat build up.

With the lint duct out of the way, the thermal fuse is accessible on the top right of the blower housing, as well as the Thermistor 3976615 on its right. What I should have done right here is take the blue wires off of the thermal fuse connectors, and tested it in place for continuity with the fuse still in place. Clean off any dust built up on the inner face of the fuse itself. A basic tester sounded a beep when I touched both connectors, which indicates continuity – or that it is still a good fuse. Install new fuse if needed, and reconnect the wires.

I would do a little more testing first prior to attempting to turn the dryer back on. After all, if the fuse blew, there was a reason. There may still be other things to consider, and you don’t want to risk blowing a brand new fuse.

At this point, I firmly recommend removing the Heater Box and Wire Heater Element assembly. I say this because it actually becomes easier to clean out burnt lint as well as test a few more things. There was enough lint all around and inside this and in the back of the assembly that could have caused overheating due to poor sensor readings.

Start by removing the heat plate at the front. Then, disconnect the six wires from the three devices: heater element, Thermal Cut-Off 3977394 and the Thermostat 3390291. I wrote down the color sequence of the wires to make certain to put them back on the same way. Next, remove the two screws at the bottom of the mounting plate that holds the assembly in place. The heat assembly should now wiggle around some, and be connected at the back of the dryer. There are no screws at the back – all you need to do is rotate the heater assembly counter clockwise about a quarter turn, and it should come out. The entire heater assembly can now be removed from the dryer.

With the Greenlee, I tested for continuity on all three devices: Heater Element, Thermal Cut-Off, and the Thermostat. All three should return an audible beep from the tester, indicating continuity exists. In my case, only the Heater Element was bad and actually had a break in it from overheating. One screw holds the heater element in the housing, so it is easily removed. I had to press on the housing a little to unbind the sides of the heater element, and then it slid right out. The housing can now be cleaned out. Assuming the thermal cut-off and the thermostat tested fine for continuity, all I would do is reach inside the heater housing and clean off the lint and dust build up on these devices, since they appear to be working. Install the new heater element.

While I had everything apart, I cleaned out the flexible duct in the back, vacuumed everywhere inside and out, and even used compressed air to clean out any remaining lint and dust that I could. Reassemble the heater box into the dryer in reverse order. Make sure all of the wires are properly reconnected to all of the devices. Make sure everything is screwed back together properly. Now, reassemble the lint duct by attaching the clip to the dryer and setting the duct in place, and then screwing the two screws back in place. Plug the dryer in and turn it on. If all went well, the heater element should glow orange and there should be heat

Posted on Jul 23, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Bosch maxx 7 sensitive dryer wich stops everytime



Technician just solved that annoying problem. My dryer is few months old and without pump, so condensed water is dripping to tank by gravity. During drying cloth is collected on filter and condenser, but some amount of cloth goes into pipes and canals on the bottom of dryer and clogged non-return valve where tank is inserted. Side panel ha has to be removed, canals and valve cleaned. To prevent problem technician suggested condenser and filter cleaning after every use. Valve can be removed from bottom without removing side panel.

Posted on Feb 22, 2011

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: bosch maxx wtl 6300 dryer when

Hi Guys...
At least I can shed some light on how to open the bottom part.
When you are looking into the dryer with the door open, take a look at the bottom hinge of the door. There is what looks like to be button popped out slightly.. 
Place your thumb on it and press. This should open the bottom part of the dryer.  Then clear out the gap between where the lint filter connects to the other units below it (when the door is closed...)
Hope this makes sense... there seems to be a sensor there..  I just cleaned mine so praying that the beeps stop.. Its been driving us mad for the last 8 months!

Posted on Oct 25, 2008

  • 97 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Dryer taking hours to dry a load

Hello Friend, Your solution is simple. It sounds like your dryer is working properly, and your actual problem is a blockage somewhere in your 4 inch exhaust tubing. Check it and make sure it is not clogged up with excessive lint. Also if your tubing is clear you need to check your connection where it travels thru the wall etc. It would be a good idea to find the actual location where it exits to the ouside and check for good airflow. Your dryer is equiped with a safety thermistat and if you are not getting the proper exhaust flow the burner will cut off and restart in the manner that your's is doing. I Hope I have helped you, Tim. And please don't forget to give me your rating for my help.

Posted on Jul 11, 2009

SOURCE: Bosch dryer warning sounder for container full will not stop

Hi
You need to remove the left side panel, this is the side where the drain container is, once removed you will see the drain pump with two pipes coming from it, remove the pipes and top cover, disconnect the wiring, remove the pump unit with the clip, clean the float unit and pump, also remove the congealed mess in the water trouth as this is what holds the float up and makes the machine think the drain container is full.
I bet you will find this will cure the problems you are having, it did with mine.

Posted on Apr 01, 2010

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