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Track power is not recommended for this uncoupler. Use an aux fixed supply of at least 10 to 13VAC for the supply. You have to move a jumper on the bottom of the track to do this. Then there will be four wires needed. Two for the aux power (hot and common) and the other two which go to the pushbutton switch.
Note: Same goes for Lionel FasTrack Remote switches. Run the switches from a 10 to 12 VAC aux supply. There is a jumper you remove on the bottom of the switch to connect an aux supply.
Place your two new type CB1270 batteries on their sides, one on top of the other in front of you with the battery connectors closest to you and with the battery connectors to your left. Connect the short (2 inch) jumper cable between the two center battery posts (1 red/1 black). Slide the battery stack into the chassis with the battery posts to your left as you face the front of the UPS and be careful that the battery posts do not touch the metal chassis. When the batteries have been slid completely into the chassis, connect the heavy red wire from the circuit board to the red battery connector at the bottom of the battery stack and the heavy black wire from the circuit board to the top black battery connector. If you have doubts about your wiring, use a DC voltmeter set to the 50v range and touch the red probe to the red battery post at the bottom of the battery stack while touching the black probe to the black battery post at the top of the stack. The reading on your meter should be somewhere between +24 and +26v depending on the charge level of your batteries.
what u need to do is count how many wires are cut and will the wires reach eachother like do you need extra wiring to make up the differance all the wires are in colors like blue and red black and white 2 colors per wire some wires are a single colre ie blu blk rd yl match up youre wires to each other blu to blu red to red etc you will need **** connectors u can get at any automotive parts store or even walmart will have these u will need 1 **** connector per broken/cut wire all u do is strip the end of each wire about 3-8ths long slide one end into the **** connector and crimp that side then strip the other wire of the same color about3-8ths of an inch slide it in to the corresponding color **** connector
I have a Fabyka Range Hood and know three other people who have had this exact problem (i.e both lights go out simulatneously but fan works fine). In my case I was able to pin it down to the transformer used by the halogen lights. This is an electronic transformer so it is less tolerant of power surges and such.
In the case of Fabyka the transformer is a black box connected to the inside of the hood with sticky tape with a black and white wire and two red wires. It is only used for the lights.
It is connected to the AC power via a black and white wire. you can disconnect this and us an LED power tester (about $2-$5 at most hardware stores) and see if you have power when you hit the switch.
In my case it is a 70W 120v to 12v halogen transformer. You can by a replacement off Amazon for about $12 including shipping or you can by a new one from Fabyka for about $30. I would suggest getting a slightly higher wattage transformer (I bought a 105watt for a dollar more).
You will need to disconnect the power before replacing but it is an easy fix.
1. Disconnect the AC power connector (black and white wires.) 2. The red wires coming out are the 12volt lines. If there is a connector, you can disconnect this, if not, you may need to cut these off. 3. Pull the tranformer off the back of the inside of the hood. 4. Cut the connectors off the old transformer. (Unless you buy Fabyka's.) 5. Connect them to the new transformer using wire connectors or crimps. (Make sure you connect black to black, white to white, and red to red.) 6. Make sure you have no exposed wires. 7. Connect to the corresponding connectors inside the hood. Connect the AC connector last. 8. Verify that the lights work properly. 9. Use sticky tape (or Gorilla tape) to attach the connector to the inside of the hood. 10. Enjoy the light.
Funny, I came here because I just opened up the switch case on my MM875. Hold the switch so the terminals are on top. Call the black switch (the part you push in to power up the mower) north. The north post gets white (metal connector). The west post gets red (plastic connector). The east post gets the black that comes from the mower's motor (plastic connector). The south post gets the black that comes from the outlet (metal connector) (Black Plastic Switch) White (Metal) Red (Plastic) Black (Plastic--from motor)) Black (Metal--from outlet)
Appart from the wire clips what type of connectors are there? are they RCA like on a TV?
If you are driving these speakers with an external amplifier then the red and black cable clips are your safest bet.
these connections are designed to carry an amplified signal. Unlike the RCA connections which are normally Line level.
If you are looking at the external connection end with it in a "V" position, on the right - the upper one is green & the lower one is red. On the left - the upper one is yellow & the lower one is black (or the big bunch of copper wires). Be sure you are reconnecting an exact pin set up - an s-video is not the same (unfortunately). If you found a replacement antenna or a correct replacement part, please let me know where. I have to repair mine too.