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Hello. Not sure what ballast you are looking for but I am guessing a Fluorescent light replacement ballast. Normally in a 2 tune balleast there are a BLACK and WHITE, These are Hot and Common. 2 Yellows go to the one end of the tubes. The 2 Blue wires go to the end of one of the tubes and the 2 red wires go the end of the other tube
Black to Black, White to White. 2 yellow to Tube 1 and 2 yellow to Tube 2. 2 Blue to Tube 1 and 2 Red to Tube 2.
Hope this helps..

Posted on Nov 04, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a T12 fluorescent light fixture and replaced the bulbs and ballast. I have double checked all the wiring connections. I get the bulbs to light when I move the bulbs, but only for a second.


Your description sounds like the connectors for the tubes. Also RECHECK wiring. Different on newer ballasts. See below...

Turn off fixture, unplug, or deactivate fuse...

Pull out bulbs and the tin fixture cover/reflector.
Extract the bulb connector. Go to hardware and buy 4 more, and just replace them. The connections fail where the wire connects and the rigours of bulb replacements damage this piece. TONS easier to get new pieces.

ALSO!!!! many new (fancy schmancy) ballasts WIRE UP completely differently from the old ballast. Follow the wiring diagram on the NEW ballast. This detail trips up many.

Doc

Sep 13, 2016 | Photography

1 Answer

How to release the wires from all the tomb stone connectors on a 4 bulb T5 fixture in order to change the ballast?


If you are sure the ballast is gone, just cut the wire as close as possible to the ballast, throw the old ballast and buy a same wiring ballast, use wiring nuts to connect the wire from the new ballast to the wire from the tomb stone socket. DO NOT TRY TO take the wire out from tomb stone lampholder.

Below link is for your reference.

http://www.bulbspro.com/electrical/sockets/fluorescent-sockets.html

http://www.bulbspro.com/ballasts/ballasts/fluorescent-ballasts.html

Aug 28, 2013 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

How to connect a 3 floresent bulb ballast to 277 voltage power source


first you need to know that the ballast is 277 volts or you will fry it, 120 volt ballast will not work on a 277 volt system, i suggest that you need to get an electrician to help you with this, if you hook it up wrong it will cause a problem

Nov 19, 2011 | Home

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I have a 4 ft 2 lamp flourescent system. I am changing the ballast. The existing wiring has blue / red / yellow / black & white wires. I have a new ballast (yes I confirmed at the store it is the...


The first thiing I suggest is checking the installation instructions (either included with the ballast or on-line) of the ballast you just purchased. Many fluorescent ballasts require that the lamps be wired in series - which I believe is what you had before. One lamp connects between the red & the yellow, the other connects between the yellow & the blue. Other fluorescent ballasts require that the lamps be wired in parallel - which may be what you have now (both lamps connect between the red & the blue). The installation instruction sheets should designate the appropriate wiring configuration.

That being said, just double-check one thing: Make sure the new ballast is rated for 2-lamps. Ballasts rated for 1-lamp will only include the red & the blue (no yellow). So I know you sad you already checked with the destributor, but double-check that one point.

May 15, 2011 | Electrical Supplies

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I am replacing one of the two ancient ballasts in a four tube fixture that has four F96T12 75W tubes. How do I connect the two blue wires in the new ballast? The old fixture has only one blue wire per...


Hi,

I don't believe you have the correct ballast for your light. Your old ballast was the old iron ballasts they used to use. They still are available but you have to search around to find them.

Be sure to match the tube wattage, length and diameter as closely as possible.

Here is a website that has a good explanation of ballasts, the old iron ballasts and the newer rapid start ballasts: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/flamp.htm#fb
Section II. deals with ballasts.

I hope this helps. If it does, I'd appreciate a 4 thumbs up. Thanks,

Handie andie

Apr 15, 2011 | Garden

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Need to hook this up to a lutron eco-t528-277-2 ballast which only has a hot,dimmed hot and neutral


If I understand correctly, you have Leviton florescent dimmer

And you want to connect dimmer to Lutron ECO-series ballast

This is the ballast with 3 wires: Hot dimmed, Neutral and Hot
02b5a79.jpg

Is this your dimmer???? Has Black, White, Red, Yellow-red, & Orange

3103a3a.jpg


Here's how to do it:
Dimmer yellow-red is not used except for 3-way switch >> cap it off with wire nut
Dimmer orange wire connects to ballast Dimmed Hot
Dimmer red wire connects to ballast Hot
Dimmer white wire connects to ballast Neutral

Those are your wires going to ballast. As you can see, you need 3 wires going to florescent fixture

Next, let's focus on Dimmer:
Dimmer green wire goes to bare ground wire
Dimmer black wire connects to Hot from breaker box (we'll test for that next)
Finally the Dimmer white wire connects to ballast Neutral as discussed above BUT is also has to connect to Neutral from breaker box

This means the Dimmer white wire is connected to 2 wires >> one wire goes to florescent fixture and the other wire comes from breaker box


So which wires come from breaker box??
It should be a black and white wire.
Let's test to find Hot and Neutral that come from breaker box.

Mark your wires.
Disconnect all the wires and separate from each other
Turn on power
Use ordinary tester
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands stay away from electricity
Power is on
Test each wire to bare copper wire
When tester lights up, that is Hot from breaker box ... this wire connects to Dimmer black wire
Now, test the hot wire to each of the other wires
When tester lights up, that is Neutral wire ... this wire connects to Dimmer white wire, and also connects to Ballast neutral.

Connect one wire at a time, and it will work.

Oct 04, 2010 | Leviton Decora Light Dimmer Switch

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HOW TO CHECK BALLAST LAMP FOR 62HM95


Ballast Board Powers Lamp, the 2 plugs on Lamp connect into Ballast
board just follow the wires from where lamp plugs into.
Does Ballast have a ark coming from a componet on board and does the main capacitor Look Vented or puffed up on top?
Remove Lamp turn TV on see if Ballast has a ark coming from a Big Whit/blue writing on it spark cap?

Feb 19, 2010 | Toshiba 62HM95 62" DLP HDTV

2 Answers

Wire connection from lighting ballast


What you do is cut the wires from the old ballast that feed to the fixture end connectors then 'wire nut' the new ballast wires to the old wires.

Oct 02, 2009 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Connect ballast to light


black to black and white to white, the green wire is the ground. the lighter colored wire is most likely for european connection if it is a switchable ballast.

Jan 27, 2009 | Hydrofarm Flco95w Grow Light System

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Ballast is loose and not connecting to the new lamp . . . Any suggestions?


whats a bulb? whats a ballast?

try calling an expert for I don't even know what you mean.

Apr 28, 2008 | Mitsubishi WD-62725 62" Rear Projection...

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I'm hoping to get some clarification as to whether the below is correct or whether I have been taken for a ride. My LG was picked up by a repair service because it started displaying horizonal lines with the picture hazily in the background. I undertook some research and learned that in most cases of the boards needed replacing and it wasn't a panel issue (usually panel issues are associated with vertical lines). After having my TV for 5 days the repair service advised that it required a new power board and a small repair required on another board. They repaired the small repair and I was going to purchase a new power board however the TV has been returned to me dead. It now doesn't even turn on. The power/channel/indicator lights at the bottom flash on then switch off automatically. After getting consumer affairs involved, I finally received a call from the sub contractor and aside from a number of different excuses given based on my questioning of each explanation, all were contrary to the initial diagnosis discussed with me in early June. I documented the conversation which I summarise as follows: - he contacted numerous times however I never received any voicemail. I asked why - after "numerous phone calls" he didn't send a txt msg to which he replied that he's not allowed to send messages. - he initially alleged that the power board was repaired and video board needed replacing which I was quoted for. I corrected him advising that I was told and quoted for a new power board ($530) and the video board was to be repaired. He then changed his story agreeing with me and alleged that found and apparently quoted me $445 for a generic power board but I declined....Just to clarify, I never received this 2nd quote which is evidenced within the emails and messages I sent after receiving no response over a number of weeks. - he continued to claim that the TV now has panel problems and is now not repairable. - I recited the discussion the owner had with me which was consistent with the information when he provided me with the original quote of $530. He then altered his story replying that "this is a rare case... The owner doesn't know what he's saying". - When I challenged why I was quoted for a power board when he is now claiming there are panel issues, his response was that a new power board was to test if the panel was cracked!! - I replied saying that the TV was delivered to them with horizontal lines and even after testing should've been returned with horizonal lines however is now dead. - his excuse changed again advising that during testing he short circuited the TV and replacing the power board would continue to short circuit the video board..When I again questioned WHY then was i quoted for a new power board (as per the owners conversation with me) he returned back to stating that it was a rare case! - I told him about the screws missing in the back panel to which he commented that "they" wouldn't have put them back in because "they" assumed I would just dispose of the TV. What I find interesting is that this was his understanding whilst I was led to believe the TV was repaired (pending a new power board). It now makes sense as to why the driver who delivered the TV literally dropped it off and ran advising that he didn't know anything. I never received a service report and asked for it again however am yet to see it. Based on this information, can anybody shed light on what they've done to the TV? Prior to them taking the TV the horizontal lines were consistent with had a faint picture in the background and didn't alter at all. They're claiming that they did nothing and the TV - claiming that the reason why the panel doesn't turn on is because it was kept on while they were testing.

Sep 25, 2017 | LG Televison & Video

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