Question about Cadet Manufacturing Heaters
I think the high temp heat sensors are tripping , the unit will start back up on its own after a while then shut off again. can you replace these little sensors mounted infront of the heating coils ? ....if so where can I get then for this model.......... THANKS...Walt
Check regulator on the unit.
Check pilot unit on the heater
use soapy water to check for leaks if see bubbles turn off main gas supply valve.
always turn off gas supply before any checks or repairs are made
when all else failes call your local gas provider to check heater and gas supply
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
There are dip switches on the main board.. When you remove the lower panel on the air handler there are instructions to where the dip switches should be for your units fan control. if the switches are in the correct configuration.. The Thermostat may be malfunctioning or not wired properly. and last.. and most expensive.. the motherboard may also be failing.
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
Is there a setting on the thermostat for Auto or Fan? If so, make sure it is in the Auto setting. You will have a contactor that turns on the elements and a relay for the fan. Follow the wiring diagram to see which relay energizes the fan then unplug it to see if the fan stops.
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
You can make sure it is not the thermostat by crossing or jumping the R and W terminals (or associated wires) together. This will keep the furnace calling for heat. As it is approaching set temperature, get in front of the furnace and inspect the air filter to make sure it is clean, watch the control module for any error codes that may be turning off the system prematurely.
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.
What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
Posted on Mar 07, 2010
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