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Cadet heater x102 tunning itself off before reaching temp set

I think the high temp heat sensors are tripping , the unit will start back up on its own after a while then shut off again. can you replace these little sensors mounted infront of the heating coils ? ....if so where can I get then for this model.......... THANKS...Walt

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  • 26 Answers

SOURCE: Pilot goes out after heating cycle

Check regulator on the unit.
Check pilot unit on the heater
use soapy water to check for leaks if see bubbles turn off main gas supply valve.
always turn off gas supply before any checks or repairs are made
when all else failes call your local gas provider to check heater and gas supply

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: electric furnace/heater pump/fan unit won't shut off

There are dip switches on the main board.. When you remove the lower panel on the air handler there are instructions to where the dip switches should be for your units fan control. if the switches are in the correct configuration.. The Thermostat may be malfunctioning or not wired properly. and last.. and most expensive.. the motherboard may also be failing.

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

  • 1904 Answers

SOURCE: shuts off when switched to low and smells when running.

clean the burner and the orifice you can use a air line or blow off a vacum cleaner

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

  • 1904 Answers

SOURCE: Gas heater shuts off & won't come back on

sounds like the thermostat replaceing it should help you could try cleaning the old one they can get dust it them

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

Therinnaiguy
  • 1420 Answers

SOURCE: Rheem RHQA Heater:Blower works but no heat.

Is there a setting on the thermostat for Auto or Fan? If so, make sure it is in the Auto setting. You will have a contactor that turns on the elements and a relay for the fan. Follow the wiring diagram to see which relay energizes the fan then unplug it to see if the fan stops.

Posted on Nov 03, 2009

Therinnaiguy
  • 1420 Answers

SOURCE: Furnace cuts off before reaching set temp.

You can make sure it is not the thermostat by crossing or jumping the R and W terminals (or associated wires) together. This will keep the furnace calling for heat. As it is approaching set temperature, get in front of the furnace and inspect the air filter to make sure it is clean, watch the control module for any error codes that may be turning off the system prematurely.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Posted on Mar 07, 2010

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1 Answer

I have a Lennox Whisper Heat that when a call for heat comes, the pilot lights as it should, then after about 30 seconds the blower fan comes on, then its about another minute before the burners light....


Yes it should go in this sequence, first exhaust fan, after establishing air flow you get a pilot, after signal from pilot is established you get main burners, then they have to reach a set temperature on the high limit and then the blower comes in. Now you have several over heat safety sensors one of them could be tripped check by powering the furnace down and see if they have a reset button on them, some do some do not. If not it should be the sensors closest to the heat exchanger and blower assembly use a volt ohm meter and check them should be normally open until temp is established then closed. This is easier done than it is to describe, now locate the high limit switch and bulb and see if it is open across the contacts it should be until it hits temp then it closes to start the blower. Hope this helps instead of confusing the hell out of you. Take your time locate the items then test.

Dec 19, 2010 | Heaters

1 Answer

Have model MD300TGA with blower.Blower is set on auto but doesnt kick on.When should blower start up after room has reached desired temp. and heater has shut off?


There should be a limit switch and once the heater reaches the set temperature the blower gets signal from the limit and that turns on the blower. If you are not getting the blower until after the room is up to temp then it is coming on it may be the low limit is bad and it is cooling itself down on the high limit. If you are unsure of this please consult a heating service person, this is a serious problem that a trained service person should deal with. This can lead to a house fire!

Dec 10, 2010 | Procom Heaters

1 Answer

Furnace runs for about 1-2 min to heat when time for fan stage.. shuts down


the fan may need replacing it may be faulty, but on the ither hand how long since furnace serviced it may be over temping before fan kicks in which means needs the air flow looking at! air flow on a majority of heaters is important if you don't have enough the heater will high temp and shut down, but it sounds if it may be the fan itself if the heaters turning off before fan starts it could be because of a faulty sensor or fan motor ceased and not spinning causing it to trip so firstly look at fan and see if you can see why its faulting if it is also i would check your airflow makes sure that clean enough to get good air flow and if ducted heating check the return air to unit and if has filter take out and try running there could be a lot of reasons for this but usually its air flow or fan if you are not electrically minded i would seek a qualified repair agent for furnace

Nov 28, 2010 | Heaters

1 Answer

I have a dyno glo rmc-fa100dlx forced air heater. It will light and work for a few minutes, up to about 5, then it will stop heating and the fan will keep blowing. any ideas? thanks!


If the unit comes on and runs but then shuts down, that sounds like an indication of a high limit trip.

Most, if not all, furnaces have high limit switches that keep a constant check on the temp inside the furnace or air handler. On most systems, once this high limit switch has been made (got to hot), the limit switch breaks control voltage to the heating device (strips, gas, fuel, etc.etc..). The blower motor continues to run until the high limit has dropped in temp and reset itself.

On some models, the high limit is a manual reset, meaning you need to reset the switch yourself or shut the unit off and then back on to reset it.


Check all filters and replace as necessary. Check the coils and fan blades for dirt build-up and cleanliness. Check motor belt (if applicable). If all these fail to solve the problem, then your issue either lies within the blower motor itself not moving enough air for proper heat transfer. Or the high limit switch itself is failing.

Jan 09, 2010 | Heaters

1 Answer

My goodman furnace model gms95 has gone ape. when the thermostate calls for heat, the furnace kicks on and starts to cycle but it wont stay on long enough to reach the set temp, before it kicks off. and it...


It sounds like your furnace is cycling off because your high temperature limit is tripping. This could be caused by a restriction of intake or outlet airflow. First thing to check is your intake air filter, clean or replace as needed. If that doesn't help, make sure your warm air registers are open, a rule of thumb is at least 60% of the total registers need to be open for adequate airflow. The high temp limits will reset themselves after they cool so that would explain it taking a few "cycles" to reach desired temperature. Good luck and please rate my answer if it was helpful.  

Jan 05, 2010 | Goodman Heaters

1 Answer

Rheem RHQA Heater:Blower works but no heat.


Is there a setting on the thermostat for Auto or Fan? If so, make sure it is in the Auto setting. You will have a contactor that turns on the elements and a relay for the fan. Follow the wiring diagram to see which relay energizes the fan then unplug it to see if the fan stops.

Nov 02, 2009 | Heaters

1 Answer

I keep getting the EE12 readout though the temp is not reached


You have an over heat problem. If your heater has been in service for some time all you need to do is clean the screen on the back of the heater. It the aluminum pull out screen on the back. Look at the heater when it is running for about 6 minutes to be sure the circulating fan motor comes on.

If your unit is brand new the plastic cover on the circuit board may be laying over the over heat sensor. If this is the case you will have to remove the front and top panel and reposition the cover.

Tom Hawkins
hawkins111@gci.net

Mar 28, 2009 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater: Laser...

2 Answers

Vornado heater doesn't work on high setting but only at low setting


Dust on the inside of the unit can cause the overload switch to shut many vornados down. Blowing the dust out of the unit with compressed air or a blower may help.

Another problem that causes vornados to stop working (light on - no heat no fan) is when one of the bearings starts to go bad in the unit. This causes the fan to be slower and less effective and the unit’s inability to move the heat away from the thermal overload switch again causes it to shut down.

Though you could remove the front and rear bearings and try to get replacements if it's even replaceable ... Once the bearing starts to go bad there is little that can be done ... HOWEVER, here is one solution to get more life out of the unit.

First, use a blower to blow all the dust out of the unit.
Then, because it is typically the front bearing that goes bad first, lay the vornado on it’s back (so the unit would be blowing air up toward the ceiling), this will relieve the front bearing somewhat and rely more on the rear bearing which tends to last longer.

The vornados I’ve had are all thermistor units ... that is, they don’t just turn on and off when the set temp is reached but in fact slow themselves down (both heat and fan) to keep some level of air circulation in the room. This is a good thing by the way.
There are usually two toggle switches .... one is a heat switch - usually Low & High .... the other is the thermistor switch (this sometimes is labeled “fan”) - usually Auto & High.

Once the unit is on its back ... Now, change the settings as follows:
Turn the Heat switch to LOW
Turn the Fan switch to HIGH
Turn the dial (with the temperature in degrees on it) to the lowest setting - which is somewhere around 60’ish.

Now turn the unit on and it should stay working.
Three things that could cause it to turn back off ...
You turn the Fan switch back to Auto.
You turn the Heat switch back to High
You turn the temperature selection dial too high ... though, you can cautiously turn the dial up a few degrees at a time ... the unit will start shutting down again when you set the temp too high ... then just dial it back down ... unplug for a couple minutes, then turn back on.

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9 Answers

Rinnai 1004 - Temp on thermostat reads 10 deg cooler than actual, keeps running


Behind the unit near the floor level, is a yellow wire with a black bulb at the end. This is the actual sensor for returning air. If there is cool air infiltrating the area where it is located, it will keep the unit running until the return air reaches temperature. You could also have a bad sensor but highly unlikely. Make sure there is no air infiltration influencing the sensor. Also, you can unclip the sensor and pull out a few more inches of wire to locate it higher up away from the floor. Tie it up with a wire tie.

Rinnai it testing a remote thermostat but as of yet, there is no plans to offer one.

Nov 24, 2007 | Rinnai RHFE-1004FA 38,400 BTU Energy Saver...

2 Answers

No Heat!


Sometimes too much dust around the heating elements can cause the heater to switch off to prevent a fire. Check for dust build up first. You can try using a can of compressed air that can be found at many electronic stores.

Oct 26, 2007 | Vornado EH1-0014-01 Compact Heater

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