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It is attached with 2-screws or 2-nails. Depending on who installed it. I970's, I'm betting on 2-nails. If you remove the cover, you will see where the nails are located on the inside back wall of the heater compartment and are attached to the baseboard. Be sure to turn the circuit breaker for the heater to the OFF position, be for attempting to unwire and move the heater. The circuit breaker should remain OFF until the heater is reinstalled.
Not sure that would pass code. But, you may want to check with the local building inspections dept in your area, before doing it. The other down side will be, the heat will start 12" of the floor rather than floor level. As you are aware, heat rises, so that would mean the lower 12" to the floor is going to remain cold. Want feel very good on bare feet that just jumped out of bed.
You are correct that these heaters use a two-wire 240 volt supply, and the neutral is not needed.
2000 watts = 240 volt x Amps ==> Amps = 8.3 amps
30 amps x .8 safety factor = 24 amps
24 amps / 8.3 amps = 2.9 heaters per 30 amp breaker (3 heaters should be okay)
More info, pls let me know.
P.S. Where does the 2880-watt number come from ?
P.P.S. There has to be a ground bus-bar in the panel -- if it's a main panel (not a sub-panel) the ground buss and the neutral buss are connected in the panel. Could you clarify what you have in the panel.
Baseboard such as Slant-fin is made with a bracket that will allow you to run a 3/4" dia copper pipe back over the top of the finned area as a return pipe giving you a supply and a return on the same side. Both the finned pipe and the housing can be cut to any length and come in a 3' section from the factory.
you must really love your hydro co
those heaters are a huge draw on your bill
why not install radiant heat they are cheep now in compairison
the unit is a central mount run the line in a loop arround basement and conect all the heaters in drop lines off the main line small thermostat valve for each room to control heat
cost is more for unit but savings are greater too they now make a light duty units designed for your porpose
single direct electric heaters are pigs on the hydro bell if you have gas or electric it is cheeper to run a small boiler or heat on demand system
The biggest wasters of electrical energy are Heat and A/c, water heaters,dryers and ranges. The more you insulate the less you have to cool or heat. If you live in a warm climate, consider installing an attic fan that runs on a thermostat or timer. During the summer allow it to run, during winter turn it off. Ceiling fans in rooms that are occupied create the illusion of being cooler, allowing the thermostat to be turned up.I'm not sure of the exact numbers but any thermostat setting on your a/c below 78 is more inefficient so try kicking the a/c up and the heat down. I'm a Florida boy so I can't tell you much about baseboard heaters. I know that anything that heats things up cost a lot in energy.
Consider installing a hot water heater timer. Commonly called a "Little Grey Box". Whenever your water heater is not actually being used it is still heating the water. A big waster. Once installed set the timer to cycle the water heater off during times when you commonly don't use it. Overnight,when your at work etc....
Somewhat antiquated, but a clothesline always uses 100% less energy than a clothes dryer. :) Short of this, try to fill the dryer all the way and make sure your dryer vent and lint trap are clear.
Microwaves draw 1/3 the energy of a range and run for 1/10 of the time. Microwave as many things as you can. In our house we have started microwaving canned veggies and boxed side dishes and such.
These are the big ones I've done at my house. A lot of the other things seemed to be more work than they are worth. Some actually end up costing you more if you don't own the house for decades.
There are many sites you can visit such as your local power company and possibly your local government pages.
Good luck. I'm in the same boat with the high power bill.
When you install the baseboard heater make sure the bottom part which is the all thing must sit over the floor and touch the tiles or carpet and use 2 or 3 wood screw against the wall. That is it and do not put any kind of paper or cotton or material things above the cover. Beside that you are ok and it is not like an electric wall heater.
measure the room, then multiply the length by the width to get the square feet you want to heat. multiply this by 10 and that is the watts you need to heat the room assuming you are using standard 220/240v baseboards.
I believe you interpretation of the code is a bit skewed in that the fundamental concern is to not route power cords over a heat source which might cause the insulation on that wire to exceed its rated operating temp and fail. The heaters themselves have shrowds over them so there are no exposed surfaces hot enough to melt wire insulation and when you think about it ..2000 watts disipated over a long baseboard section is not that hot. If I were you, I would go ahead and install them and not worry about the warning.. The warning also removes any liability from the heater manufacturer in the event something happens.. Common sense would dictate that you wouldn't intentionally drape power cords all over the heaters... Just use common sense and not worry about it..