Question about Whirlpool Duet 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity Plus Electric Dryer

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Whirlpool duet dryer stuch on steam mode and clothes are wetter at end of drying cycle

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 9,472 Answers

You need to replace the water valve.

Posted on Nov 05, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Master_Tech
  • 770 Answers

SOURCE: e-2 error code on whirlpool duet dryer

“E2” flashes if the thermistor has shorted.

The thermistor monitors the exhaust temperature
and cycles the high-limit thermostat on
and off to maintain the desired temperature.
1. Turn the dryer off but keep the electrical
supply connected.
2. Make sure that the dryer is empty and that
the lint screen is clean.
3. Close the dryer door.
4. Select Heavy Duty, Timed Dry, More Time
or Less Time, End of Cycle Signal (Louder)
and Start.
5. If error codes E1 or E2 flash on the display
after 1 minute and the dryer turns off,
the thermistor, or the wire harness, is either
shorted or open. Check the wire connections
at the thermistor or the machine
control electronics board. If wiring checks
okay, replace the thermistor.
6. If the dryer seems to operate normally, remove
the exhaust vent and start the dryer.
7. Select the desired temperature cycle to be
tested, and select 20 minutes of Timed Dry
heat using the More Time or Less Time
pushbuttons.

Posted on Feb 25, 2008

  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer WED9600 Beeping during drying

Dear Customer

Please perform the following



please rate this,thank u

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Whirlpool Duet

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.&^$%#$

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Steam Dryer Beeping

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.!@#$%^

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

jnchahn
  • 252 Answers

SOURCE: my brand new (2 weeks) Duet dryer seems to be

If it is brand new. It should have full factory warranty. I would called the place that you bought it from and have them fix it.

Posted on May 07, 2011

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1 Answer

My Whirlpool Duet DRYER--the clothes are wetter than when I put them in & there is now water sitting in the bottom. It does have a steam setting, but I'm not using that one. It's 4 years old.


Check your exhaust vent! If you have an obstruction, the steamy air will have no where to go, then your air-conditioning temps inside can cause the water to condense in the vent tube... Even if the vent is just open to the hot summer air and the clothes sit in the machine the difference in temps between inside and outside can cause these symptoms...

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2 things are needed to dry clothes. 1 is good air flow. Check to make sure that the dryer vent is not clogged or partially clogged with lint. Also make sure there are no kinks in the vent hose. With the dryer running you should feel good air flow blowing out of the outside house vent. The 2nd thing a dryer needs heat. Check to see that the dryer feels warm to hot when you reach in to tough the clothes. It is possible that the heat element has partially failed. Another thing to investigate is how well the laundry machine is spinning out the water in the spin cycle. This spin cycle is used to get as much water out as possible prior to placing the clothes in the dryer. The wetter the clothes when they come out of the laundry, the longer it takes to dry them.

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Things are not drying on a regular cycle like they use to.


Most likely cause is a partially blocked waste water filter. If the filter is blocked, the water wont drain away as well as it should, so the clothes are wetter at the start of the dry cycle than they should be. Ergo, they end up wetter at the end of the dry cycle. Find and clean your filter, this will probably fix the issue. If it doesn't then you may have a problem with the heating element on the dryer. The fact that you say they are not drying like they used to suggests that they are drying to some extent, heater elements tend to either work or fail, rayther than nnot work well, so if you have some drying, but its not as good as it should be, I would put my money on a blocked filter.

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