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Lots of videos here about that problem. maytag dryer thermal fuse replacement YouTube
Which thermal fuse. The one on the heater or the one on the lint filter housing? If it was the one on the heater did you replace the thermostat too.
Is the dryer vent blocked, has too many elbows, or too long or otherwise restricted, or is the dryer overloaded.
The cycling thermostat must also be replaced when replacing the thermal fuse. The cycling thermostat's failure to cycle off the heating element results in overheating of the dryer which consequently blows the thermal fuse open.
Replacing only the thermal fuse should the dryer stops running and
fails to start will result in its premature blowing or even the thermal
cut-out (cut-off) located on the heater duct. Like the cycling thermostat, the high-limit thermostat must also be replaced once the thermal cut-out blows open. Refer to the parts diagram in the link below and look for item numbers 31(thermal cut-off), 34(hi-limit thermostat), 39(thermal fuse), and 41(cycling thermostat.
Sounds like a blown thermal fuse problem which is caused by blocked lint duct and vent or a faulty cycling thermostat. The exhaust air temperature rises when there's a blockage in the duct/vent or when the cycling thermostat fails to cycle off properly. The thermal fuse blows when the temperature reaches the fuse rating and terminates power to the motor. The dryer will not start and no dryer function works. Click on the link below for the detailed troubleshooting instructions.
It is indeed a belt issue if the dryer blows hot air, which means the motor is running, but the drum does not turn. Otherwise, the thermal fuse (part number 3392519) mounted on the blower has failed. This thermal fuse is wired in series with the motor circuit and its failure results in the motor not running and the dryer not working at all.
Remove the dryer real panel to access the blower housing and check the
continuity of the thermal fuse. Grab a volt-ohmmeter and set it to the R
X 1 scale then disconnect one wire from the thermal fuse terminals then
check the continuity of the thermal fuse. Replace the thermal fuse
should it read open.
The temperature of the air being exhausted is monitored by the cycling thermostat and the thermal fuse mounted on the blower housing. The thermal fuse, which is wired in series with the motor circuit, fails when the cycling thermostat fails to regulate the exhaust air temperature. Failure of the thermal fuse results in the motor not running and the dryer not working at all.
Remove the dryer real panel to access the blower housing and check the continuity of the thermal fuse. Grab a volt-ohmmeter and set it to the R X 1 scale then disconnect one wire from the thermal fuse terminals then check the continuity of the thermal fuse. Replace the thermal fuse should it read open.
Indicate the exact model number of the dryer for specific troubleshooting and repair advice if you need further assistance and for the exact part numbers.
The thermal fuse (part number 3390719) is blown causing the motor not to run. This thermal fuse is located on the blower housing beside the thermistor (part number 8577274) and it is wired in series with the motor thereby cutting power to the motor when it fails. The failure of the thermal fuse is due the failed thermistor; these requires both the thermal fuse and the thermistor to be replace.
Access to the thermal fuse and the thermistor for replacement or testing requires the removal of the lower front access panel which is secured to the front panel by two retaining clips positioned about three inches away from the sides. Pry the clips to release it and remove the lower front access panel. The thermal fuse and the thermistor can now be accessed.
Using a volt-ohmmeter, check the continuity of the thermal fuse which is to the left of the thermistor. Replace the thermal fuse if it reads open together with the thermistor.
Remove the mounting screws and mount the new parts in place. Disconnect the wires from the old failed parts and connect it to the corresponding component. Reinstall the lower front access panel back into position.
Have you cleaned the lint out of the airways and the heat exchanger area? The lint filter traps most of the lint but not all, the airways and especially the area where the heating element is still fills up with lint. To get it out, you'll have to take the back off the dryer and open up the enclosure for the heating element and vacuum it out. The lint clogs the airway, which restricts the airflow, which lets the heating element get too hot, which is why the thermal fuse shuts it off. Otherwise, it would catch fire (and in some cases, still does). It should be good for another few years when you get the lint out. Good luck.
Fuse and element failure is related to lack of air passing over the element. The drum and fan should run even if the heater is inoperative. Find out what is stopping them, then work on heat. If motor is running, there should be air flow--pull vent hose from wall outlet--should be brisk air flow. If not, remove the lint screen and check again. If now ok, soak the lint screen in hot water and detergent. If drum does not turn, check the drive belt and if it sits properly on motor pulley.
Change your cycling thermostat. When your cycling thermostat fails, then the reponsibility of your heating element to shut down goes to the high-limit thermal shut off (closest to heat element) and the thermal fuse. Your cycling thermostat should shut down heat element when it detects about 140* air in the blower housing. Yours can't detect that anymore so it lets your dryer heat up and up till you blow the thermal. new cycling thermostat and thermal