Question about Air Tools & Compressors
Compressor side if engine will pump to 125 but when running valve open from tank to tool will drop dwn to 30 cfm unless you cut valve part shut
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
your regulator internal filter could well be blocked ,isuggest that you drain the tank fully and remove you regulator,check that tank is clear of rust or scale if all is clear then strip and clean your regulator
assembly or replace with new,problem should be gone all the best
this might be a silly question but the needle on your pressure guage couldnt be stuck?,have you drained your reciever?
Posted on Dec 08, 2008
The pressure switch has snap action contacts that are opened by a diaphragm pushing against a spring mechanism. Unplug the compressor and remove the cover to the switch and look for the contacts. Make sure that they are not welded together from use. Move the on/off lever to see if they open and close. You may have welded contacts or broken mechanism within switch. A factory replacement is expensive, however if you are a tinker-er you can use a lower price generic pressure switch available on ebay. Switches are sold by pressure range, you need a 120#. Fittings may need tweaking. Enjoy
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
SOURCE: unloader valves
Yes, your compressor will work just fine with a Load Genie continuous run unloader from www.grainger.com. The part number is 4tk14 with a cost of about 45.00. This unloader has a built in check valve so you can remove the present in-tank checkvalve and save it for later use. All that you need to do is install the unloader at the tank and compressed air in to top of valve. (you may have to buy extra fittings to make it work with your tubing size) Adjust valve to open just before the pressure switch cut-off setting. The unloader will bypass the compressed air and will have less stress on the motor. You will not need to use the present unloader at the pressure switch. The only caution is to manually unload the Load Genie upon initial start if there is pressure in the line. Good Luck with your project.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
It could very well be the valve plate however before you order parts take a look at the cylinders. Unplug the unit, remove the cover from crank side and turn the compressor by hand till the/a piston is at top of stroke. Examine upper cylinder for scratches /wear or failed vinyl piston ring. On oil-free compressors, dirt and grit is sucked-in from the bottom of the cylinder and causes leaks between cylinder wall and piston. If scratched, air pressure is leaking down thru cylinder wall. Failed reed valves cause a pulsation at the intake port (air seems to be pumped out the intake). If you see a model number anywhere on the pump that begins with " WL", your pump is made by Campbell Hausfeld. Parts can be ordered from www.chpower.com. other-wise order parts from sears parts. Cylinder kits are around $40. Good Luck on the repair and email if you have questions.
Posted on Apr 02, 2009
I would use an ajustable wrenck to try and open the valve. Being at the bottom and in the water, this is a common occurrence. to replace the valve, there is a Hex nut outer fitting (part of the valve) that you have to remove right by the valve "T" handle. Put a wrench on this and remove the complete valve. It too will be very hard to remove. When you install the new valve, use some anti-seize compound to make future removal easier.
Posted on May 31, 2009
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