Idle screw backed out all the way, throtle is closed, air cleaner is clean.
Engine still runs away at very , very high RPM. so high of RPM the kill switch won't shut it off. I used the chain on a log to slow the engine down and then the kill switch works.
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There is no fixed carburetor setting on these engines, just two screws to adjust low-end and high-end operation. Special tool may be required, there are about a half-dozen screw head standards. Check eBay for tool. Get the engine to run and idle fast (idle adjust) so it doesn't stall, adjust low-end screw so that engine doesn't hesitate or sputter when accelerated. Adjust high-end screw to run fast and smooth on full throtle. Readjust idle to normal.
Open the carburetor area cover and remove the air cleaner so that you can observe the throttle arm and the idle speed screw which stops throttle movement to set idle speed. If the throttle arm doesn't come back completely to the screw, then likely, the throttle trigger is jammed with sawdust/dirt that prevents the throttle arm from returning. Disassemble the trigger assembly making notes of part placement as you go. You will usually find a plug of sawdust in the trigger mechanism. Recheck the throttle arm motion after putting the trigger back together. You may have to advance the idle speed screw several turns CW to be able to keep the engine running when the throttle works correctly. Idle speed should be set so that the engine continues to run, but the chain doesn't try to turn. Hope this helps!
Which idle screw are you adjusting, the idle jet (L) or the idle speed screw which sets the throttle stop position. Adjust the idle speed screw while watching the throttle stop position so that it is pushed away somewhat. Adjust the L jet needle CW to stop (lightly), then back out 1-1/2 turns CCW. This should allow the engine to idle after warm up. Turn the needle CW while running for better idle, yet it should allow the engine to 'follow the throttle'. If this doesn't work as described, then check the fuel filter, air filter, and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for decay or other damage. You may need to remove the carburetor and clean it inside and out with spray carburetor cleaner. For further insight, go to: http://www.drystacked.com for a 12 page article on Walbro brand carburetor theory and troubleshooting. This material applies in general to other brands of carburetor as well. Hope this helps!
Check the air cleaner and muffler for plugging. One screw adjusts the idle stop (idle speed) position and the H and L jet screws set fuel mixture for high speed and idle speed mixture respectively. Turn both jet screws CW to stops (lightly) then back each out CCW 1-1/2 turns. This is a basic setting and should allow the engine to start and run. Start the engine and allow to warm up. Pull the throttle full on and adjust H CW until the engine starts to speed up, but 4-strokes. Correct adjustment is when the engine 4--strokes running free, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L needle CW until the engine idles fairly well, but allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust the idle speed screw so that the chain stops turning, but the engine will continue to run. Hope this helps!
Make sure the air cleaner is clean or replaced and the muffler is not plugged. Set both screws to CW stops (lightly), then back out each CCW 1-1/2 turns. Start engine and allow to warm up. Pull throttle full on, and adjust H needle CW until the engine speeds up, but still 4-strokes. The correct point is when the engine 4-strokes, but 2-strokes when a cutting load is applied. Let idle and adjust L for smoother running, yet allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust idle speed screw so that engine continues to run, but doesn't try to move the chain. Hope this helps.
Initial setting for a Husqvarna; "H" and "L" screws at 1 turn CCW form lightly seated. Then tune for performance like this: Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly. Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run. There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full – may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too. HTH Lou
close to the carb you will find two tiny screws. They are labeled H and L. L sets the idle speed. H sets the max RPM. Hold the throttle wide open and turn the H screw. When you find the very top end, back it down some or it will be running too lean. That would make it run hot, and provides less lubrication. Could result in engine failure if you run it too lean.
First, check the air filter and clean it well. Then make sure the spark plug is clean and gapped properly.
Then prime, start it up, and allow it to idle, even using the trigger to make it fast idle if you can. Using a small thin screwdiver, turn the high speed idle screw on the carb in small increments to the right, kepping the speed up on the trhrottle.
The idea is to screw it out until it sputters, then screw it a half turn back in. If it doesn't smooth out when turning it to the right, try going to the left.
Afterwards you may find it doesn't run at low throttle well. If not, try the same thing starting to turn left until it smooths out. If it doesn't, screw to the right. Again, the idea is to go until it sounds rough, then back off a half turn.
You should be able to adjust it to the point where you can open the throttle all the way with smooth sure throttle increase.
ok here goes. you are write to wind out the screws 1 1/4 turns +/-
you have 2 scews for the carb jets, the other is the idle speed adjuster. it has a conical shaft which simply open the throtle more as you screw it in. wind this in so that it will run a bit fast . if you can, start the saw. Without pulling the throttle, slowly turn the "low" jet in , or out untill the saw runs faster. if it starts running too fast, adjust the idle speed scew down a little. do this untill it is running best. adjust the idle speed down until the cahin just stops moving. the low speed is now set. now pull the trigger and run the saw full throttle. adjust the "high" jet in or out slightly until it is running fastest. Note..if you turn either screw in too far, the engine will stall.
I hope this helps,
Another thing that could cause problems is if there is an air gap between the carb and the cylinder. check that fixing screws are tight. check that the gasket is ok. some saws have a small rubber manifold between the carb and the cylinder. if this manifold is perferated or damaged,it will let air into the engine, and therefore will not run right.
Turn both H and L adjustment screws CW to stops (lightly), then back out CCW 1-1/2 turns. Engine should idle and run fairly fast with these settings. If it won't, then remove the carburetor and disassemble it. Clean all metal parts with spray carburetor cleaner, and blow out with compressed air. Check the condition of the rubber and plastic parts for stiffness, holes or cracks. Re-kit if any found bad. Check the fuel lines for condition. Install the H and L needles as above. Start the engine--it should now idle and run up. Warm the engine up, then apply full throttle and adjust the H needle (probably CW) to get the engine up to maximum 4-stroking speed, but it should smooth out immediately with a light load (cutting). Then drop to idle and adjust L for best idle, yet rich enough to allow engine to follow the throttle. Adjust the idle speed a little below where the chain stops moving.