Wiring my peavey 112xt subs with my peavey 2xt tops
Hi im using a pv 2600 amp and having loads of problems with the set up i have a set of 112xt subs with a built in crossover im connecting my cables from amp to subs then a speakon cable from bottoms to tops however getting only a very sluggish sound from bins and nothing through the tops please help ,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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for your subs and amp the best way would be for the speakers to be wired in series1ch (mono or bridged)to have a 4 ohm load to your amp stable at 2 ohms
see pic for wiring diagram for 2 1 ohm dvc subs wired in series.
you will need more than one speaker wire for wiring the subwoofers coils(positive & negative terminals) together
hope this helps :~)
First disconnect the CD head unit from the sub amp and see if the other amp works. If yes, the problem is the wires to the amp, the amp itself, or the subs/sub wiring. If no, the problem is the head unit--probably an internal short. If the other amp works with the sub amp disconnected, reconnect the sub amp to the head unit, but disconnect the sub wires from the amp. Try the CD player. If the amp goes to protect with no speaker wires attached, the amp is bad. If the amp is OK, the problem is the subs or sub wires. Hook the wires up to the amp again, but disconnect them from the speakers. Try the player again. If the amp goes to protect, the problem is the amp wiring. If not, the problem is the subs. Check the impedance of each sub using an ohmmeter to determine which amp is out of spec. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using Fixya.
I know loads of ppl who have had the same problem. Are you getting an output from ur headunit RCA's? Sometimes you need to turn the sub RCA's on via ur headunit. I would make sure im getting an output from the headunit first.
The settings you have will not break anything and may sound OK.
But they may not be optimum for getting the best bass from your system. The SubSonic setting filters out frequencies below the threshold of hearing allowing the amp to put more power into the frequencies that can be heard. So, it should be set to about the same frequency that your enclosure is tuned for or just a little lower. If your enclosure is tuned for 35Hz, then the subsonic should be close to maximum.
Similarily, the low pass sends all frequencies below the setting to the subs, (other than those blocked by the subsonic filter) and is commonly referred to as the "crossover" frequency. Typical crossover frequencies for subwoofers are 60Hz, 80Hz and 100Hz. For a ported enclosure, lower is probably better.
The phase shift should be set to the position that best synchronizes the bass with the music. Because of the additional wiring required for the subs, the signal to them is sometimes slightly delayed causing the bass to be "out-of-sync" with the rest of the music. The thump of the bass comes just a little sooner or later than expected. If the bass sounds out of phase, turn the phase shift on, otherwise leave it off.
The "gain" or level control allows you to match the amps input to your head units subwoofer output. The best setting is usually as high as possible without distortion. Set it by turning up the head unit volume to about 3/4 maximum and then advance the amp gain until your subs just begin to distort. Then back it off slightly.
These settings should allow your amp to put the most power into the frequencies that your subwoofers are designed for and hence produce the loudest and lowest bass.
Start by checking and making sure that you have excellent connections at power,ground, and signal. Depending on the voltage output of your rca wires if you are running rca's to your amp typicaly your amp gain should be only at half - you may be clipping the signal if you have the amp set too high. On your deck you will want your bass settings at only half -again too much boost will cause clipping at the amp. with all your settings adjusted and all possible connections checked- the only thing left to check is the compatibility of your subs in relation to the amp-by that im referring to the overall resistance-measured in OHMS that you are placing on the amp.Your amp is probably rated at about 150wattsx2 at 4 ohms or 200+watts x 2 into 2 ohms or 400-460watts into a 4 ohm bridged load. Look on the magnet of the speakers and find out if you have single coils or dual coils and see what the ohms(resistance) of each sub (or coils) are rated at- ideally you would want a set of dual voice coil 4ohm+4ohm per sub- that way you can match the subs better with your amp.---- Heres a scenario that may or may not apply to you- i see it all the time so im going to share it with you---- If you have a set of single voice coil 4 ohm subs and you are trying to run them wired in parallel to the amp in bridged -then that is why you amp is shutting down- you will have to wire the subs in series until you either get different subs that will yield an overall 4 ohm load -or find a different amp that will take a 2 ohm load - okay for now try wiring the subs in series and see if it still sends out an overcurrent light on you-good luck
You can connect them in a series/parallel configuration. Put two of them in series and then connect the last one in parallel across the two in series. This would give you an impeadance of around 2.7 ohms. Only do this if your amp is stable at 3 ohms or less. I am not familiar with the specs of your amp. If your amp is only 4 ohm stable you can not do this.
This would also give you half the power on the two subs in series as the power for the one that is parallel. The two in series would be sharing the total output signal, where-as the one in parallel would get the entire output signal from the amp.
if you were to connect a fourth sub woofer in this configuration it could give you a 4 ohm load, by adding the fourth sub in series with the single sub that is in parallel. or in other words, yu have two sets of 2 sub woofers each in series. That gives you two 8 ohm loads (two 4 ohm subs in series is 8 ohms). Then you take the two sets of subs and parallel them (two 8 ohm loads in parallel equals 4 ohms).
If i had a picture to show you it would make sense, two subs in series that are in parallel with two subs in series.
My recommendation would be to double check the back of you crossover and make sure everything is hooked up correctly. If you crossover is convertible like my DBX223 xl is from Stero to Mono and Three way to two way the connections on the back changes roles.
Overheating in amplifiers is often caused by a speaker load of too low impedance. If your L7 is a dual 4-ohm voice coil, and if you're using the amplifier in bridged mode, that may be causing your problem. Dual 4-ohm subs, with the voice coils wired in parallel, present a 2-ohm load to the amp. Your amp is capable of running a 2 ohm load in 2-channel mode, but not bridged mode.
The best fix with your equipment would be to re-wire the sub's voice coils in series, resulting in an 8-ohm load. The amplifier's power output will drop sharply, but you won't have problems with overheating in that configuration. There's a good chance that you'll still be able to get all the volume you want, even with an 8-ohm setup; otherwise you'll probably want to switch to a mono amp designed for a 2-ohm load.