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Maytag dryer cycling thermostat

Terminal resistance

Posted by Anonymous on

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

docjohn174
  • 943 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool dryer LER5656EZ3 no heat

i would agree

Posted on Sep 27, 2008

skrbin
  • 121 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 90 Series Model 11060912990 Dryer won't start

check motor (you have 2.4 Kohm ) very high read
for motor must be lower.Check capacitor if hawe.

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

SOURCE: maytag electric dryer won't stop running.

temp selection switch is defective, replace.
nbcrca:)

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

machinetech7
  • 1344 Answers

SOURCE: Gas dryer won't get hot

You will have to remove the back panel to access this part. Be sure that you unplug the machine before starting. Once the back panel has been taken off and placed aside the thermal switch will be located on the left lower side near the blower housing . It will be thin and long and located near the cycling thermostat that has for prongs on it. On certain machines, the thermal fuse is located in the front. To access this you must remove the kickplate, which can be done by pushing the clips, one on each side jsut above the top of the kickplate, in between the top and abottom portion. The part numbers are the same for either style dryer. To test this part you can either take the wires off it and tie them together then plug the machine back in and see if it heats, or you can use amultimeter and check to see if there is continuity, if there is its good, if not, bad. The thermal fuse will usually be white, and if located in the back, be thin and long with two wires on it, left and right. If in the bottom front, it will be front center on the exhaust duct. In some cases the ignitor or the gas coils will go bad. Here is a good process of elimination.
1)Verify that the thermal fuse is good. If you don't have a meter bypass it and turn the machine on. If heats, thermal fuse is bad, if not leave connected and continue
2)When the dryer starts and thermal fuse bypassed, the ignitor should start to get hot and glow, if your thermal fuse is in the back you are going to have to have to the top of the dryer up to see down inside near the front for the glow. You can do this by taking the lint trap out and removing the two screws and popping the top up. If the ignitor comes on more than likely the gas coils are bad and if it doesn't the ignitior is bad. (this is while the thermal fuse is bypassed so the ignitor has power to it regardless)

Posted on May 25, 2012

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1 Answer

My maytag neptune stackable washer continually stops in mid-cycle--is this a common problem as I have heard??


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity it should show OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale at 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200) ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to create a fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g

http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.

GOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMP7BW1lLs4







Dryer venting issues slow drying, fire flare ups, to hot, noise and clothes How to clean your clothes dryer How to make it hot again How to Check Dryer Thermistor eHow Kenmore Electric Dryer Not Heating What to Test and How to Test

Apr 17, 2017 | Maytag Washing Machines

1 Answer

How to fix Maytag dryer MED9600SQ0


Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum 9 this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

fix-maytag-dryer-med9600sq0-hdpcwx0uwo4iizhnlkec22xy-5-0.jpg

fix-maytag-dryer-med9600sq0-hdpcwx0uwo4iizhnlkec22xy-5-2.jpg

fix-maytag-dryer-med9600sq0-hdpcwx0uwo4iizhnlkec22xy-5-5.jpg

Jan 26, 2016 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer stops heating after ten minutes all sensors and thermostat have been change


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!!

May 03, 2015 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Not drying code AR?


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!!

Apr 10, 2015 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

I have a maytag Neptune dryer mdg9700aww and its throwing a code 02 and 03 and 10. Can you please help.


O2 is a not heating error. Unplug the dryer and check the heating system components. For an electric dryer, check the house circuit breakers to see if one has tripped. For a gas dryer, make sure that the gas supply cut-off valve is fully open.

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Mar 09, 2015 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Can someone help on a Maytag Neptune dryer MDG6800aw not heating up?I've changed the ignitor and it runs but after around 10-15 minutes I hear a grind like a stuck switch and the dryer is not heating up....


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Mar 07, 2015 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

My maytag neptune dryer is taking twice as long to dry cloths. i've had it 5 years & it's gas.


Clogged Vent
If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.
Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:
The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.
When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)
The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.
This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But...if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.
Cycling thermostat
Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork . This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2. These 2 terminals should have continuity. If not replace the thermostat.
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Oct 05, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

How do I diagnose a problem with a dryer that works but is not getting hot? It's a Maytag MDE2600AYW


Since the dryer runs, the thermal fuses are fine making a possible open circuit condition in any of the heating element, the cycling thermostat, and the high-limit thermostat. Remove the front panel to access the cycling thermostat on the blower housing, the high-limit thermostat on the heating element enclosure, and the heating element itself. Once accessed, check the continuity of the high-limit thermostat and the large terminals of the cycling thermostat. There should be continuity on both parts. Use a volt-ohmmeter and set it to the R X 1 scale. Continuity means zero resistance. Replace the part found with no continuity, i.e., open.

Check the resistance of the heating element using the same volt-ohmmeter set to the R X 1 scale. Replace the heating element should its resistance reads infinite (open).

The front panel can be removed by removing the four screws located vertically along the inside lip of the door opening. These screws hold the front panel to the front shroud assembly.

Once the four screws are removed, grasp and press in on the upper edges of the front panel posts then twist it inward to release the clips holding it to the cabinet. Tilt the top of the front panel and move it away from the dryer. Reinstall it in reverse of the removal steps.

May 23, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

No Heat.Which terminals on the cycling thermostat do you need to check to test it.


Check the continuity of the cycling thermostat using an ohmmeter set to X1. Disconnect one wire from the cycling thermostat terminals then connect one test lead of the ohmmeter to each terminal. The reading is zero ohms for an apparently good thermostat; further test is required to check its operation.

Unscrew the cycling thermostat from the heater housing and pull it out of the dryer. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers or similar tool, hold the thermostat over a burner and verify if it clicks when heated. Carefully check the continuity immediately before it clicks again. The ohmmeter reading is infinite (open) and zero ohms when the thermostat cools down and clicks again. A good cycling thermostat cycles off when heated, and on when it cools down.

Every heating circuit component in the heater housing need to be checked when the dryer is not heating. Set the ohmmeter to X1 and measure the resistance between the heating element terminals. The resistance depends on the model of your washer. Replace it when the ohmmeter reading is infinite (open).

The thermal cut-off fails when the cycling thermostat fails to cycle off. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off. Disconnect one wire from its terminals and connect one ohmmeter test lead to each of the terminals. The resistance is zero for a good thermal cut-off.

A blown thermal cut-off is an indication of a failed cycling thermostat. The cycling thermostat must also be replaced when the thermal cut-off is blown. Just unscrew the blown component and screw the new component in place. Specify the brand and model number of your washer for the specific replacement parts.

Warning: Disconnect power to the dryer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.

Mar 23, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Maytag elec. neptune dryer won't heat


The first thing I would check would be your high limit thermostat. It is located near the heater and is wired in series with the heater. The contacts in a high limit thermostat remain closed at temperatures below 250 degrees. The contacts will open and interrupt the circuit to the heater when the operating thermostat, thermistor or electronic control fails to cycle properly. The most common condition that causes the high limit thermostat to operate are vent restrictions, blower failure or a defective operating thermostat or thermistor.
If those are good, then,

Check your dryer heater. With both heater power terminals disconnected you can check for resistance. The typical dryer heater resistance is around 20 Ohms.
If you can not read resistance on the dryer heater then it is an open circuit and needs replaced. Also if your meter indicated an electrical path between either of the heater terminals to the heater frame (ground) then it’s bad. The heater must be isolated from its mounting frame.



Jul 06, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

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