Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
On this design, the front would be the area you would need to remove. Start by unplugging the machine. On the console, you will see 2 screws on either side of the front of the console. Remove these 2 screws with a phillips screwdriver. After you do this, grasp the console on either side, gently pull the front bottom out, then when it releases, flip the console up, and swing it back over the rear of the unit. On either side of the top, you will see a gold latch. Put a regular screwdriver in the groove along the front of these latches, down in the hole in the top, and pop it out. Do this to the other side as well. Grab the cabinet, and gently swing the top back towards you until the bottom slides out. Then set the cabinet aside. On this model, there are no belts. The drive system is made up of a motor, a drive coupler, and transmission. The drive coupler is between the transmission and motor. Sounds like you may have a problem with the basket drive system, which is located between the transmission and outer tub. This can be replaced, but will take a special spanner nut wrench to remove the inner basket and drive block. Let me know if this helps you out some or need me to break it down a little more for you. Good Luck!!! Jimster
Posted on Sep 05, 2007
sounds like perhaps you dissconnected the door latch assy,and never reconnected??? hte unit will not spin/drain with the door latch not making contact
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
Replace the timer.
This is a neutral drain machine. If there is no natural pause in the timer at the end of the rinse cycle the timer is bad.
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
I contacted partsdepotonline.com. They were very helpful. The problem is a broken coupler. Part #100017 from Parts Depot. Part #275753A from Kenmore. Parts Dept is cheaper.
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on how to bypass the lid switch and on the transmission.
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
If everything else works OK,, including the drain, and the timer moves, the problem could be in the transmission / gearcase.
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again.
The Sears site for your washer may have a sub-component section on the gearcase with a part number for the Neutral Drain Assembly repair kit.
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.
The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.
You don't have to remove the drum.
You can also see this site for removing the transmission.
ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged
the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
With ours, all told, it cost less than $30 (including new 80-90 weight gear oil) vs. about $170 for a new transmission.
The job is a bit complicated and messy but not too difficult.
Posted on Dec 14, 2009
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