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Where can i get a replacement Wen # 720 battery and charging stand. this is for a cordless drill.

I was given this tool set and i need a battery and charging stand

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  • windsorguzzi Dec 22, 2013

    Hi jerry oneal, I want to help you with your problem, but I need more information from you. What make and model is it? Can you please add details in the comment box?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: skil cordless drill model 2362 - won't charge

I have the same problem. The guys at Batterries Plus told me that 7.2 volt battereis are not easily replaced and definately not through them. If you left it charging for to long (ie over a week when you were gone like me) then the battery is never gonna charge again. You might as well find the same model of dril at skil's reconditioned site for around $40 or buy a brand new one for $60 or $70

Posted on May 09, 2009

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SOURCE: Need to replace power cord to battery charger of cordless drill

it takes a 24V DC 200mA  The one I have is a Ktec Model KA12D240020034U

Posted on Aug 29, 2009

  • 583 Answers

SOURCE: Delta cordless power tool batteries, #CL180B

battery world or the like will be able to supply new ones or repack your own

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

lcdpayless
  • 25 Answers

SOURCE: my ryobi 14.4v cordless drill won't turn on. The

use
AC / DC Power Adapter Replaces Ryobi One+ Batteryhttp://lcdpayless.com/ryobi_one_power_adapter.php

Posted on Jan 29, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Delta cordless power tool batteries CL 180B

My batteries also would not charge and I thought it was the charger. I then used some fine sandpaper and cleaned up the connectors on the batteries and I now have one charging. I will try the other one as soon as the first one is done. It looks like the charger doesn't contact the battery in the same places as the tools and they get dirty. I love my set and don't want to loose them. I just don't use them enough to need charging often.

Posted on Aug 11, 2010

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One of my Ryobi 18v battery packs (1400672) won't charge, the chargers red and yellow lights stay on. How can I trick it into charging?


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Oct 22, 2009 | Ryobi Drills

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It doesn't run even with a charged battery pack.


dear T,     The problem here is not your driver, but what you are asking it to do.  A good rule of thumb for carpentry jobs is "Always use the right tool for the job!" I work in the carpentry shop at the metropolitan opera in New York.  We use 14.4v and 18v cordless driver drills only.  However, you should know that cordless tools are to be used for small, short jobs.  Once you subject a cordless tool to constant, repetitive tasks that require lots of power, the tool will suffer performance problems and may fail.  Your broken bit indicates that you are expecting this tool to do more work than it can handle.    When driving long (2-1/2" or longer) screws into very hard (most decks are made of pressure treated lumber at least 1" thick) material, the proper tool is a corded drill.  This tool is made to deliver constant force for long service cycles.   When driving screws over 2" into hard woods or other dense material, any cordless drill is only good for less than 6 cycles of use.  A 12 volt battery will give out after several drive cycles under this type of demand.    Unfortunately I think you have depleted your batteries life expectancy.  Most Ni-Cd batteries will only last 1 to 2 years under normal wear.  I think your batteries will need replacement or repair.  Good Ni-Cd repair centers are hard to find, but with determination and persistence, you may find a battery recycler who will replace the cells in your batteries for a fee of about 1/2 the cost of new batteries.  DeWalt batteries are not cheap, so you will have to determine your best choice.  To drive several screws into your deck, I would recommend a corded drill.  It will stand up better under the demand.      As for broken bits, heavy use will always take a toll on your bits.  They will break less if they fit the fastener perfectly.   Also care must be taken to drive the fasteners in perfectly straight, perpendicular to the work surface.    Remember the adage, "Always use the right tool for the job!".  Take one of the fasteners with you when you but new driver bits.  Check for the best fit to the fastener you want to use.   For decades the standard drive bit has been the "phillips" bit.  At the Met we only use "Robertson" drive or square tip wood screws.  They cost more but slip less, and the bits rarely break. Always select a bit that best fits your fastener.    I hope this solution brings you success in your projects.  Best Regards,  Michael Mittelsdorf

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