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Ltd temp flashes on control panel with an f on one of the burners

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On our glass top GE Profile stove, the burners do not stay on - they keep turning off and then on again before coming to full temp. Extra long time, for example, for water to boil.


They cycle off once they have reached the temp that you set, then come back on to keep that temp, my suggestion is increase the set temp.

Dec 01, 2013 | Cooktops

1 Answer

I am experiencing some problem with the controls on the cooktop. When turning the dial to the desired temp, sometimes the burner comes on, sometimes it does not. Some of the burners only engage when we...


I haven't heard of this problem before. If you do press down and the hotplate starts to work we know that the hotplates are okay. The only thing this could be is an internal problem inside the hotplate controller, possibly with the contacts. The controllers will need replacing.

Mar 04, 2011 | Whirlpool GJC3034 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

I have an Amana smoothtop AK2H35 the large dual burner seems to overheat. It gets so hot, that everything burns, when I turn the temp down, the burner does not turn off, though eventually, it does turn...


Hello there
I will answer this in 2 sections for testing the burners and the thermostate
Surface Burner Testing:

In order to test the surface burner on your electric range, the following steps should be taken:

  1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!


  2. Remove the surface burner from the stovetop. On most electric ranges this can be done by pulling the burner up and out of its plug-in receptacle. Other models have the burner directly wired to the cooktop. To remove this type of burner, undo the screw that secures the burner to the cooktop, remove the clips that secure the insulators to the burner terminals, and carefully unscrew the wires from the terminals. Take care not to bend these terminals.


  3. Visually inspect the burner - often there will be small holes or bubbles on the surface of a defective element.


  4. Now that you have removed the burner, you can test it using your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1 and touch the test leads to the two burner terminals. The VOM should show continuity. Typical burner readings should be somewhere between 19 and 115 ohms, depending on the range manufacturer. If there is no continuity, the burner is defective. To test for a grounded (or shorted) burner, place one test lead on the outside surface of the burner and the other test lead on each burner terminal in turn. If there is continuity at either terminal, the burner is defective.


  5. If the burner is defective, replace with a new one by reversing the removal procedure (step 2 above). If replacing a wired-in burner, make sure that you install the wires on the correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram

Oven Thermostat Testing:

An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.

  1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!


  2. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model:
    1. On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.
    2. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components.
    3. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel.
    4. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you.
    5. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.


  3. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.

    Adjusting the thermostat:

  4. Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.


  5. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.

Dec 01, 2010 | Amana Cooktops

1 Answer

Wirlpool elect range GR465LXLS, cant control heat on dbl burner


yes it is your control infinite switch the knob swicht that goes from 1 to 10 or min to max thanks from gilles

Mar 13, 2009 | GE Cooktops

1 Answer

Burners light but never stop clicking


HI!!! You seem to have a faulty control board.Check with the manucfacture to see if you dont have a service flash for that model .Good luck..

Feb 01, 2009 | GE Monogram ZGU48N4GHSS / ZGU48L4GHSS...

1 Answer

Hob not working


replace the hob. the f1 error is not sensing a temp change and if the burner is broke it wont sense it.

Dec 05, 2008 | Cooktops

1 Answer

On light flashes


i would replace the custom control kit. elemnt usually fine that contorol kit is a new circuit board that only controls that one burner

Mar 09, 2008 | Jenn-Air 35 in. JEC9536 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

Maytag, precision control 500 [canada]


the infamous "custom control kit" its an electronic board that only control that one precision temp burner all other elements ar regular switches, if thats the one where the sound os coming form replace the control. .nothing else to do

Dec 26, 2007 | Maytag MEC5430BDS Electric Cooktop

2 Answers

Ignite problem


imfornu, under each burner control is a valve and a switch that controls the spark to each burner. Sometimes these switches become wet or short out. In this case it sounds like yours is shorted in the closed position and therefore the spark. These switches run on a harness across each burner control valve..I believe the part number is PG220020, you can look it up on the net to get an idea of what it looks like...Catriver..post back.

Sep 05, 2006 | Viking 31 in. VGSU101 Gas Cooktop

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