Question about Coleman Powermate Portable Generator PM0435003
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: powermate 6250 no spark
The engines used on the Powermates have a low oil shutdown system that can be troublesome. Try this:
1 - Make sure there is enough oil in the crankcase. The oli level needs to be all the way up to the bottom of the threads in the oil fill hole.
2 - Still no spark? Replace the spark plug with a new one (properly gapped), then spray something like brake cleaner into the carb. Pull the rope and see if you hear any detonations from the engine. If the engine tries to start but won't you need to look at the fuel system, then the ignition.
3 - If you proved there isn't any spark happening, look under the plastic cover where the kill switch is located. You'll find a small metal box with wires coming out of it. Find the wire that goes from the box to the kill switch and disconnect it at the switch. Mark things as needed so that you'll remember where to put them back. Give the rope a gentle pull and see if we have a working ignition, if it does have spark there is something wrong in the low oil shutdown mechanism.
4 - If you've convinced yourself that the low oil shutdown is misbehaving try changing this oil and flushing out the crankcase. Look for any evidence of debris that would have made the oil level float bind. As a final test reconnect the wire we took off the switch and disconnect the one that goes from the module to the oil sensor on the side of the engine, if you don't get a spark with the sonsor disconnected you probably have a bad module.
5 - If we didn't get ignition with the low oil shutdown disconnected from the kill switch, reconnect the wire we took off and then disconnect the (usually black) wire that leads down inside the engine. This is the kill wire for the ignition module. If you get the engine to start with this wore disconnected you may have a shorted kill switch, test it with an ohm meter.
6 - if there still isn't a spark with the kill wire disconnected you may have a bad ignition module. You have to take off the carb, then the blower housing to get to it. Check that the kill wire isn't shorted to the block anywhere, and that the module has the proper gap and orientation before replacing it, The modules say "cyl side" on the side that should face into the engine. A regular business card or a playing card ought to just fit between the magnet on the flywheel and the module, too loose would cause a loss of ignition. You get extra points if you use a feeler guage to set the gap to 0.010 inches.
7 - Ignition modules are available from a bunch of different places, your local Briggs supplier will want to know the model, type, and code numbers located on the side of the valve cover in order to be sure which parts you need,
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Posted on Dec 01, 2008
Assuming that you intend to someday put it back together, do this:
1 - Make it safe by taking the wire off the spark plug and getting all of the gas out of the tank.
2 - Remove the stator part of the generator. There are 4 long bolts with 7/16 inch heads that hold it onto the adapter plate at the engine end of things and a 1/2 incher holding the end away from the engine down on the frame. Some generators have more than 1 frame mount, these are harder to get out, I use a channel lock pliers to hold the rubber mount and a socket to remove the nylock nut. When it's all loose, pull the molex plug out of the distribution panel (where the outlets are) and then gently slip the stator off of the rotor. Try not to break the windings.
3 - Support the engine/rotor assembly by placing a block of wood, stone, or metal under the rear of the engine.
4 - Take the long bolt out of the end of the rotor. Use a 6 point socket for this so as not to mess up the bolt head. This is also much easier with an air ratchet. The rotor shaft has an "innie" cone shape milled into it and the engine has a corresponding "outie" bevel that fits inside the rotor shaft. This is called a tapered shaft mounting. You can get the rotor off of the engine shaft one of 2 ways...
The "official" method:
Get the kit from Briggs and Stratton, tap threads into the inner surface of the bolt hole, insert the appropriate threaded rod and torque it to pull the rotor free. This only takes one tech.
The "redneck" metohd:
You need a friend you trust to swing a hammer, a fairly heavy hammer (I use an 8 lb sledge), and a chunk of 4 X 4 wood long enough to act as a punch when placed against the rotor laminations. Turn the rotor so that the laminations are horizontal. Put the 4 X 4 against them as far away from the engine as you can without breaking the plastic parts of the rotor. While holding the 4 X 4 tightly against the rotor, have the other guy whack the other end of the 4 X 4 sharply and with a good amount of force. Then rotate the rotor 180 degrees and whack the heck out of the other side. Repeat this process until the rotor pops off of the enigne shaft.
My old shop mate and I got good enough at this to take the rotor off in 2 whacks every time.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
SOURCE: 5000w gen. no powe out put
when engine runs but no power is produced ...there are three things you need to check:
1- brushes may be shattered.(open the generating unit cover(from the stator and rotor side) and you'll find it..if it is shattered..then replace it.
2- breaker...to test this disfunction...connect the two wires(the one going to it and the one coming out of it) together and try again...if it generated power..then the breaker is out of order...either replace it...or keep it connected directly (DON'T leave any naked wires)
3- AVR open the generatng unit cove again.you'll find the AVR (screwed to the rotor holder) here is a picture of an AVR: if it is burnt out...replace it..
IF you tried the 3 things i wrote and none of them worked, then you have a problem with the stator or the rotor...but that is very rare to happen...it's probably one of the three///..
Posted on Oct 26, 2009
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