Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
CHECK your stand pipe hasn't fell over (the one the drain hose goes to when emptying)If not,Either the pressure switch is broke or there is a hole or split in the pressure switch rubber hose.This switch stops the water when it reaches required level.
Posted on Aug 16, 2007
“F20” on display
(Water Inlet Problem—no water or insufficient
water supply) Select PAUSE/CANCEL twice to cancel the cycle
Unplug washer or disconnect power. Check the following: Are water faucets completely turned on?
Are screens at inlet hose connection to washer
clogged? Are water inlet hoses kinked? Are water inlet hoses frozen?
Do rate the solution.
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
The clothes are wet after spinning
When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
I would recommend you check your lid switch. Slamming the washer lid will only compound the issue and eventually will cause the lid to warp and additionally break the lid strike (if equipped). Due to the frequency of use, the lid switch does wear out and it is the most common cause of these symptoms. Its also an inexpensive repair. If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle or drain, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunctuion. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.
If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.
NOTE: On this type of lid switch the lid hinge has a small rod that is used as an acutator to toggle the switch. In many cases, you can adjust the rod by bending it if the switch is not making contact.
If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
If parts are needed, a replacement can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price.
This is a very simple repair, that usually costs about $25 to $35 to repair yourself. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
SOURCE: Squeeky agitation (loud)
there are 4 rods that the tub hangs from. the plastic pieces at the top of the rods are supposed to wear in, but many of them continue to squeak. had the same problem with mine for the last 4 years. in year 1, the GE repair guy said this is common and showed where to lubricate. open the front panel (stick a screwdriver or stiff butter knife to depress the 2 clips.) you'll see the rods. (altho the back ones are kind of hidden). a quick spray of silicon will quiet the squeak. usually lasts about a year.
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
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