Question about Electrical Supplies
It got stuck a few weeks ago and I used an alan wrench to unstick it according to the instructions. Seemed to work great for a few weeks, now it started leaking.
Where is it leaking?
If bearing rusts out, the unit can start sticking, and water begins dripping down into the motor cavity.
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Posted on Nov 04, 2012
I had same problems before. So I bought Ins?nkerator evolut?on excel and now I don't have any problem. The Insinkerator Evolution Excel is simply the best!!!! This year for Thanksgiving, a guest was helping in the kitchen and put a large amount of potato peels down the disposer. I was concerned because not only was the disposer jammed full of potato peels, but there were a bunch of peels in the sink waiting to be stuffed into the disposer. (This has happened with our old disposer and I got the privilege of trying to unclog a clogged sink - not a fun thing to do with a house full of company). I watched her turn on the disposer and to my amazement they were all disposed of without a jam. At this point the Evolution Excel was worth every penny I paid for it. My only complaint about this disposer is that is almost too quiet. When you turn it on, you can barely hear it run. I have to remind myself to insure it has been turned off because you get a quiet hum when it is running, not like the old disposer that was LOUD. This is great if you have a sleeping baby, etc where you don't want to wake up the neighbors when you run the disposer. Best Garbage Disposal Reviews 2016 Ultimate Guide
Posted on Jul 21, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There is a problem with the motor starter. Electric motors that large have three sets of coils: the stator, rotor, and starter coil. The stator coil doesn't move but it induces a magnetic field around the rotor coil. The rotor coil is wound around the shaft that turns the grinding wheel and induces a magnetic field that interacts with the stator's field and causes rotation. The problem is, it takes a lot of energy to start a motor that big turning and it needs a little extra oomph. The starer coil can't simply run all the time. I'm not sure why but my guess is heat and overload issues. Anyway, there's a switch mounted on the motor's shaft that reacts with centrifugal motion. When you turn the disposer, the shaft is not moving and the switch is ON. That switch, when turned on, powers the starter coil that helps the motor get started moving. When the shaft gets up to speed, the centrifugal force throws that switch outwards, which turns off the power to the starter coil. The humming when you turn on the disposer tells us that at least one of the coils is running just fine. There's a chance that one of the coils is burned open or something, but moving parts fail first, so I would say take a look at that switch. It probably just has some gunk stuck on it, in which case check for signs of leakage, and just buy a new disposer if it has leaked. Otherwise that switch is probably the problem.
There's a chance you can do this without removing it from the sink, but probably not. Open the wiring door on the bottom and unhook the three wires. Open the strain releif and pull the cable out. Look to see if there's any way you remove the bottom of the disposer, but I doubt it. Look inside the wiring hole and pull out the cardboard inside. There you can see part of the motor. There's a chance you can see the problem from there and possibly that starter switch. You'll probabl have to get at it from the top though.
To take it apart, turn off the breaker and wall switch. Unscrew the nut or plate from the drain line and remove the drain line. now look up around the sink opening and look for a ring with three protrusions that are curled in little sideways tubes. Put your dejamming wrench in the hole or tap with a hammer to the left to disengage the disposer from the sink. By ready for it to fall, it's heavy. Now loosen the screws around the top of the disposer right above where the name label is. If there is a plastic vanity around your disposer, which there is not for this one, pop it open with the tabs on the side and take it off. This thing is hard to get back on right though. Lift off the top of the disposer and you should be looking at the gridning wheel. Now loosen the bolt that holds the griding wheel to the motor. You'll probably have to insert that wrench into dejamming hole so the whole shaft doesn't turn. I'm not sure what'll be below that griding wheel but you'll probably find a way to open up the bottom and slide out the whole motor. Be careful you don't damage any seals, you're dealing with water and electricity here. After you fix the problem just do the reverse to put it back together. Knowing me I would test it to see if it ran after I thought I fixed the problem but before I put it all the way together, but only after checking to make sure nothing would shock me, come loose from a part of the machine if it did come on, and I would make sure it was secured and away from me when I applied power because this is a big motor and it's gonna **** hard when it starts. Now would also be a good time to take apart the assembly that holds the disposer to the sink and replace the dried cracked plumber's putty with fresh putty, or, better yet, silicone adhesive that lasts forever. You can also spiff up your disposer by replacing the rubber splash gasket that you can get at a hardware store for a few dollars.
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
be sure you have 110v if its a 110volt unit sometimes when dropped they tend to lock up run some water and see what happens no results return product
Posted on Apr 12, 2010
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