Question about GE Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I finally called GE about the non-working LED's and the temperature fluctuation. It's a known problem as many consumers have posted online. I called 800-386-1215 several times. What I found is I'd get different menu options nearly each time I called. The way I got to a 'helpful' human follows: Call above number; you will/may here a voice that states only 'for recalled appliances press 9' (may also have options for repair or parts) PRESS 0; next menu PRESS 5; you'll hear 'for less than 1 yr old press 1' and 'for more than 1 yr press 2'. In my case I pressed 2, then got a menu with 'for refrigerators PRESS 2'. Spoke to a woman who never denied that GE has a motherboard problem. She offered to provide a free motherboard but no labor. I asked (to be sure) if I would have to pay labor, she said yes or I could have $400 off a new crappy GE fridge. She said I would have to have a repairman come to diagnose the problem, then order the part and then come back to repair. I then said, 'You're telling me that I have to pay for TWO service calls to repair a known GE defect???? How much should I expect to pay for these TWO service calls???' She then asked me to hold, then came back on the line and told me that GE would pay the labor for the repair.
I also asked if GE was willing to do anything about the 25 cent door latch that cracked after 11 months (and is attached to the door gasket a $228.00 part) or the rusting wire freezer baskets and was told no. Hey, worth a try! The fact that they said no ensures that I will continue on my crusade to warn anyone who'll listen not to buy GE! Keep calling, after I got the right menu the wait was short the whole call was less than 15 minutes.
Posted on Sep 17, 2008
If the problem disappears (for a while) when the freezer reaches 32F, then I know what the problem is.
The GE Profile refrigerators (and likely other models as well) often don't defrost properly, especially in humid climates. So they can develop ice buildup internally, especially if the air vents at the back of the freezer are blocked by frozen food. Once that happens, that ice can interfere with the cold air circulation booster fan that runs when the freezer temperature is too warm. Then you get a LOUD buzzing noise from the fan blades, as they bang into the ice.
The immediate "solution" is to be sure nothing blocks the air vents, and then to melt the ice that interferes with the fan. You can turn the fridge off for a while (with the food removed so it doesn't spoil), and/or get a hair dryer and heat the inside back of the freezer, until the ice melts and falls away from the fan. (Just be careful not to block the nozzle of the hair dryer, or it may burn out from overheating!)
But the ultimate solution is to buy another refrigerator, one that is NOT a GE! And that makes me sad, because GE used to make GREAT refrigerators. My last GE refrigerator is nearly 20 years old, and still works well, and it does so QUIETLY.
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
refrigerators have 2 coils. the evaporator coil and the condensing coil. one is on the bottom of the fridg and one is on the back or inside behind a false panel. these coils must be kept clean or if the condensing coil cannot reject the heat absorbed by the evaporator, the box temp will stay high and if the evap coil cant absorb heat the box temp stays low running the risk of freezing
Posted on Nov 27, 2009
it;s probably not going through the defrost cycle or its getting stuck in defrost .. on the back of frig the is a metal cover plate . in side you will find the main board . replace it . it runs the compressor and defrost and controls tempt . this is a very common problem . the new boards are better . and they cost a litle more . mm hope this helped / feed back pls .
Posted on Feb 04, 2010
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