Its feeding from A 90 amp double pole breaker, then it feeds into a 60 amp and 2 20 amp sub feed panel that powers the heater, pump and timer. Where should I install the GFI or GFI's to get the proper protection.
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Re: I need to install a GFI breaker on a Baptistry.
You could install a standard GFCI in line at each component ( heater, pump & timer) or you could install AFCI breakers similar to what are required in many residential codes (provide the same protection at the panel not at the location... http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/afcifac8.PDF
The AFCI breakers will need to match your panel type (siemens, GE or Square-D) and the amperage/configuration.
I would install them at the lowest level (closest to the components) in the system to reduce possibility of fire in the wiring between the components and the afci breaker.
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If you have (90) 50w lamps = 4500 watts total. Assuming a 120/240 panel, if you put 1/2 on one "side" of the panel and the other 1/2 on the other "side" of the panel, that would be 2250 watts on each half. The generator should be rated *at least* 125% of the load; 4500w x 1.25 = 5625W. Using a 4500W generator on this load will cause it to overheat and shorten its life as it is running at 100% of capacity all the time..
One half of the panel is 120V to neutral, and the other is 120V to neutral - or 240V between both circuit breaker terminals. Ohms law for DC circuits and purely resistive AC circuits says Volts x Amps = Watts; or Watts / Volts = Amps. So, 2250W / 120V = 18.75A on each pole of a 2 pole circuit breaker that feeds the sub panel. A #12 copper wire is rated for 20 amps; but as per National Electrical Code - must be de-rated to 80% of rating which means it is good up to 16 amps maximum. A #10 copper wire is rated for 30 amps, but it too must be derated to 80%, making it good for 24 amps maximum. So, if you are going to feed a sub panel supplying (90) 50watt lamps, you will need to run a #10/3 copper cable from a two pole 30 amp circuit breaker at the generator to a 120/240 volt "main lug only" sub panel rated for at least 30 amps.
Divide your load evenly across the sub panel - (4) 15 amps circuits via (2) two pole 15 amp circuit breakers on each "side" of the panel if you run (2) 14/3 cables out to the lights - or (4) single pole 15 amp circuit breakers if you run (4) 14/2 cables out to the lights. No circuit breaker terminal should have more than 23 lamps that means you have (2) w/ 22 lamps and (2) with 23 lamps. The circuit w/ 23 lamps will draw 23 lamps x 50w = 1150W. 1150W / 120V = 9.6A. The 22 lamp load will be 22 x 50w = 1100W. 110W / 120V = 9.2A. Which is well within the 12A maximum allowed (after derating as required by code) by a #14 copper wire rated for 15A.
If your question is in regards to a standard home panel system with a 120/240 feed the single pole arc fault breaker are rated for that installation. The 120 voltage is nominal and covers a range, usually +- 5%. So your 127 is within range for the 120 volt breaker.
GFCI's are really temperamental. They are this way for a reason. It seems like you have something that is tripping this. I would try using a regular 50 amp breaker, and then see what happens. You can also try process of elimination. Shut everything down, then bring power up - one item/circuit, appliance, etc. at a time. This will narrow down your problem. Also, if you have a refrig/freezer on this GFCI, this could be tripping it too. Any appliance, etc. that has a motor - usually leaks to ground just enough for the GFCI breaker to sense, and trip it. I hope some of these solution's will help you...Good Luck!
The breaker must engage TWO bus bars in the panel, in addition to the a neutral connection. If the breaker is aligned to engage only one of the bus bars, only one of the terminals will be powered at the breaker terminal screw (most likely the top).
Some electrical panels have covers that have numbers and spaces stamped for circuit breakers at the bottom; when in reality, there is no bus bar to connect. Make sure you are not attempting to install into a space that lacks both bus bars.
If unable to get 240 volts out of the breaker without the load wires connected, there may be an issue internally with it. If after connecting the load wires, one side fails again, it may be detecting a ground fault or an over current situation but due to an internal failure is unable to trip both poles of the breaker. This breaker should be replaced.
When Working with Household Electricity you want to always keep in mind that the BLACK wire ALWAYS carries DEATH. What I mean by this is that working with a Single Phase Circuit (one that uses 120VAC) the only wire that should be carrying a voltage is the BLACK one, the other 2 wires (typically the White Neutral and Green Ground) should both be electrically connected to Earth Ground (usually by being attached to your water pipe.)
It is also possible that your hot tub may use more than 20 Amps.
This is a sub-feed lug, should you ever decide to add a sub-panel in your house. So when landing your feed wires to this panel, use the larger lug. Good Luck, and feel free to ask me anymore question's that you may. - Jim
I see you're looking for a 3 pole 30 amp Siemens BL cir. brkr.? I don't believe they make a this type of breaker in a 3 pole. In a 2 pole yes, but not a 3 pole. Also, I see on top of your message, it says Siemens #MP120GF 20 amp SP GFI Breaker. Now, if this is what you're looking for, I do know they have one. If you're working out of a home, I'm sure you have a 240 volt service, and a 3 pole wouldn't work here anyway. I'm just checking, but do feel free to contact me for this, or any other questions you may have. Good Luck to you, and I hope I was able to help you in some way. - Jim
The total panel ampacity should be rated first by your load, then by the main breaker. if you are feeding it out of another box, it will probably be a double 100amp. In that case you will probably use 100amp SER cable.