Question about Whirlpool Gold 24 in. Built-In Dishwasher Dishwasher

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Hole in tube

I was drilling a screw out of the bottom plate and accidently ran the bit into the bottom of the tube, now I havea leak. How can I repair this?

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  • mgrantham Jan 05, 2009

    Actually, I meant to type tub, not tube, so YES, I did drill a hole in the tub. Dumb, YES, I know. It's a small hole, about the diamater of a toothpick. I am going to use some aqua marine epoxy to try and fix it.

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Replace the tube ,i hoppe you did not drill in the body of the dishwasher ,but if so try PVC epoxy ,you ken get it in any plumbing supply store

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • arturjbober Jan 05, 2009

    epoxy ken fix almost anything good lack .Artur.

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How do you attach the feet to the sofa? Came without pre-drilled or tapped starter holes or a diagram.


Are you sure there are no existing holes? I have seen where they are actually covered by the material/felt that they staple to the bottom. On the other hand, if it doesn't have holes, try this. I will assume that the feet have a course type wood screw thread. Take a piece of cardboard and cut it to a 4" X 4" square, this should be enough to cover the corner of the sofa. (if not make it as big as needed) Locate the wood corner of the sofa and mark that area on the cardboard. Now you have a template for your feet. Given the center of the wood location on the cardboard, punch a hole through it. This is where you will have to hold the cardboard to the bottom and with a drill, mark a hole on the sofa. Repeat this for as many legs it has. Now judging what size screw the feet have is a matter of gauging it, like stick it into a straw, or next to a pencil. You want a drill bit smaller than the screw size. (15% smaller is good) When you drill the sofa wood, I suggest measuring the screw of the foot and mark the drill bit for that depth. (a small piece of masking tape around the bit will do fine- blue painters tape works better) Once you have drilled all required holes for the feet, proceed to screw them on. If they are a bit tight, or not going all the way in, use your drill bit and make minor adjustments to the depth or diameter of the drilled hole.

Dec 30, 2014 | Furniture

1 Answer

Replace shower door


Hi

You did not mention any additional information about your problem except replacing shower door.However use basic hand tools to complete the job.

Try this following general steps :-
1. Remove the doors by lifting up on one door at a time and then pulling each out. The top of the door has rollers attached to it, and the rollers rest on the inside of the top rail of the frame. Set the doors aside.
2. With your drill, remove the two screws on each end of the top rail, located on the inside of the shower frame. Then lift off the top rail of the shower frame.
3. Use your box knife to cut the caulk on the side and bottom rails of the shower frame. Shower frames are caulked on the outside where they meet with the walls and floor of the shower.
4. Use your drill to remove the screws from the side rails. There will be two screws on each rail, securing it to the shower stall. Then, take the rails out. Remove the screws from the bottom rail and take it out.
5. Use your tape measure to measure the old side rails, top rail and bottom rail. With a pencil, mark the lengths on each new rail. Use your hacksaw to cut each rail. Hold a side rail in the exact location where the old rail was located. With your pencil, mark the screw holes on the shower wall. The new shower frame screw holes may not line up with the old shower frame screw holes. Use your drill and 3/16-inch drill bit to drill new holes if necessary. If the shower walls are ceramic, use the concrete drill bit. If the shower walls are fiberglass, use the multipurpose 3/16-inch drill bit.
6. Insert the 3/16-inch anchors into the holes that you drilled. Put the side rail into position and insert the screws into the holes. Use your drill and Phillips head drill bit to tighten the screws. Place the bottom rail into position and mark the holes. Drill new holes if necessary and install the anchors. Insert only one screw at the end where you installed the first side rail. Lift up the loose end of the bottom rail and slide the second side rail into place. Mark the holes. Remove the side rail and drill the new holes using the 3/16-inch drill bit. Insert the anchors and put the side rail back into place. Insert the screws and tighten with your drill using the Phillips head drill bit.
7. Set the top rail directly onto the side rails. In each end of the top rail, insert the two self-drilling screws until the top is secured to the sides. Insert the tube of clear caulk into the caulking gun. Cut the end off of the tube with your box knife. Caulk the side rails and the bottom rail to the shower walls on the outside of the shower. Re-hang the shower doors by lifting each door and placing the rollers on the inside of the top rail.
Also giving you some links from where you can find a detailed information regarding replacing shower doors.
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-replace-a-shower-door/index.html
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,214441,00.html
Thanks for contacting fixya.com
Please do get back to us for further query.

Jan 20, 2012 | Home

1 Answer

The wheelchair is a manual invacare ser num.07ae002124. Four upholstry scerws broke in half with one half still stuck in the frame of the chair. Do I have to drill them out or can I just replace the hole...


This problem happens quite often with the upholstery screws for manual wheelchairs. The threaded screw goes into a riv-nut captivated on the tubular frame. The riv-nut is applied with a rivet like tool. The screws usually break off or get stuck in the riv-nut.
The more difficult repair when this happens is with an expensive and not readily available tool to replace the riv-nut after is is drilled out of the frame.
The easier and less expensive method involves the following:
Spray a large amount of WD-40 on the broken screw. Using a small drill bit that is smaller than the screw, drill the screw into the riv-nut in the forward direction. The downward force while you are drilling with the WD 40 will do all the work. Do not try to back out the screw with an easy out or extractor (harder, more expensive, requires specialized tools, may damage the rivnut). This usually does not work and involves the difficult rivnut replacement described above. By drilling forward into the riv-nut the screw will advance forward into the frame and drop into the tube. ( No need to fish out the broken piece).
If the threads are damaged in the riv-nut use a sheet metal screw, if the threads are intact use a 10-32 threaded screw. ( If you have a 10-32 tap use it to repair the threads that are damaged)
If after all this work the broken screw does not cooperate, you can use a drill bit slightly larger than the screw to drill it out and use a sheet metal screw in its place.
With 4 screws to practice on you will be a pro by the second screw.
The additional disclaimer for this repair is as follows:
If you can't get it to work with any of these methods your final trick is to drill all the way through the top and bottom of the tube. Run a 10-32 bolt through the washer, upholstery, and both sides of the tube and thread a nut on the end. Hope this helps.

Feb 05, 2011 | Health & Beauty

1 Answer

Is there someone (a professional) who will accept porcelain plates to drill to make a 2 or 3 tiered serving piece? Preferably on the east coast (near Philadelphia?)


You can do it your self stay away from the cordless drills get a carbide drill bit and a tube fill it with some water so it covers the peice of porcelain you want the hole in. Ihave know idia what a 2 or 3 tiered serving piece is. But if its made out of porcelain but if you have a high speed drill and bit and you can keep the peice cool you can drill perfect holes in it. It may take some time if the hole is 1/2 inch or more depending on how thick the meteral is put a peice of wood under the peice so you don't drill through the bottom of the tube. But small holes 1/4of an inch are much quicker to do. I dought you can find anyone else to do this for you And it sounds vary artsy but this how its done with tile and you can drill perfect holes in porcelain just go slow and steady and keep it under water at all times. good luck

Jan 02, 2011 | Dewalt DC920KA Heavy Duty Xrp 18V Cordless...

1 Answer

How do I bolt down Sentry Safe S3310 to the floor?


All of the instructions can also be found at www.SentrySafeShop.com

The link is:
http://www.sentrysafeshop.com//kb_results.asp?ID=7

Required Tools:
Drill, Wrench, 7/16" (11.0mm) bit, for wood anchoring: 9/32" (7.20mm) bit, for masonry
anchoring: 3/8" (9.5Omm) masonry drill bit.
The steps are as follows:
1. Tip the safe on its right side. (Door hinges horizontal with the floor)
2. Unlock the safe and open the door.
3. Look on the bottom (outside) of the safe for two indentations in opposite corners. Using a
7/16" (11.0mm) bit, drill a hole through each indentation perpendicular to the bottom of the
safe.
4. Close the door and tip the safe upright. Place it where desired and reopen the door.
5. Use a screw or drill bit to mark the floor through both holes.
6. Move the safe aside to clear both marked spots for drilling.
7. Drill into the floor:
a. For wood:
i. Using a 9/32" (7.2mm) bit drill a hole 2 Y2" (64mm) deep in each marked
spot.
b. For masonry:
i. Using a 3/8" (9.50 mm) bit drill a hole 2 Y2" (64mm) deep in each marked
spot.
ii. Install a masonry anchor in each hole.
8. Replace the safe in the desired position, with the holes in the safe aligned with those in
the floor.
9. Securing the safe:
a. For wood:
i. Pass each lag screw through a washer, then through the safe and into a hole. .
ii. Tighten with a wrench. ,
b. For masonry:
i. Pass each lag screw through a washer, then through the safe and into a
masonry anchor.
ii. Tighten with a wrench.

Jun 27, 2010 | Sentry FIRE-SAFE Combination Safe DS3431,...

1 Answer

Knobs wrinkle on my LG LGR30855ST range.


The plastic shaft on the knobs split and loosen. I have the solution for that, but I need one metal insert that goes over the gas valve shaft and into the knob. For those that have the split knobs. This a bit of work but it works great. Remove the two screws from the back of each knob. Go to a hardware store and find the thin brass tubing that most have. Pick the tube that just about fits over the plastic shaft. It will fit over the tip but will not slide down the shaft all the way. Now pick a brass washer that the tube almost fits into. (You have to do a bit of tooling on both the washer and the plastic shafts. What you will end up with is a brass tube soldered to the washer that fits over the plastic shaft and is screwed to the metal insert in the knob from the inside. First take the tube and file across the top of the tube to make teeth. Now slide the cutter tube down each shaft while rotating it. This cuts the shaft to exactley fit the tube. Drill the washer to also exactly fit tube and cut or file the washer to fit into the knob at the bottom of the shaft. Cut the tubes to length, press fit them into each washer (this should be very tight and solder each washer to the tubes. Place the soldered unit on to the plastic shaft of the knob. Drill two number 4/40 size screw holes into the washer. One on each side of the shaft. Just start the drill into the metal insert. Do not drill through now. Remove the metal insert. (take a small screw driver and put it into the space on either side of the metal part of the knob. Not between the metal and the plastic knob though. that may break the plastic. The metal insert comes out fairly easy. Once it is out finish drilling the holes with a 4/40 tap drill. Tap the drilled hole with a 4/40 tap to make threads. Screw the tube and washer assembly to the metal insert. The screws should be flush with the back of the metal insert. Place the metal insert back in the knob. You now have a sleeved knob that will never break again. This is how it should have been made in the first place. I did this in a few hours on a Sunday afternoon. The parts including the 4/40 drill and tape were about $13. It is not as hard as it reads. LG has a quality issue, but does not want to step up to it.

Oct 19, 2009 | LG LRG30855ST Stainless Steel Gas Range

1 Answer

Coffee leaking into grounds drawer


On top of the Brew Group is an arm that dispenses the coffee into the cup. Did you remove the arm? There are two screws that secure the arm to the top of the Brew Group. When you remove the two screws you'll find a spring that's inserted into a hole. Be carefull. There is a ball below the spring in the bottom of the hole. Don't loose it. At the top of the hole where the plate for the arm mounts and covers the hole, there should be an o-ring gasket. If you removed the arm while cleaning and didn't put the o-ring back in, you'll get this problem.

Oct 02, 2009 | Saeco Vienna SuperAutomatica Coffee...

2 Answers

Drill hole in China Plate


Normally you would use a masonry bit to drill into ceramics eg tiles or bricks. if the plate is glazed it is better to stick some masking tape or adhesive backed paper on the area to be drilled to stop the drill bit slipping around. also i would be inclined to use a hand turned drill or a small battery powered drill if you have one to avoid breakage of the plate.

Oct 13, 2008 | Dewalt DC920KA Heavy Duty Xrp 18V Cordless...

2 Answers

Leaks


Same problem here. I did get it apart and there are two metal water lines each connected by a rubber fitting that is just slipped on. My guess is that as the rubber connectors get old they start leaking water. I'm going to try putting a small worm clamp on the bottom half of the rubber connectors to see if it stops the leaking.

Jan 13, 2007 | Braun FlavorSelect KF 180 Coffee Maker

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