Question about Frigidaire FEF336BC Electric Kitchen Range

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Thanks, however I have a new issue

You were right. There was a short. When I pushed the element back it contacted the back cover. After replacing the wire connector and powering up I am getting no heating. Did I blow a fuse or damage the board ?

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Thats possiable.but most common is the breaker trips[house breaker]push both 50 amp stove breaker all the way to off.push ,off direction to make sure resetts,then to on.if still no work you can do visiual inspection,but other wise need volt meter

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

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Tip

Broiler element does not get hot enough.


I did some work recently on a free-standing electric range.
The broiler element was heating up just a little. It was not getting red hot.
The range was practically new.
I discovered the crimp-on spade terminals to the broiler element had lost their springiness and were not making good contact with the element terminals. The ends of the wires going to the broiler element also showed signs of excess heating due to resistive contacts.
I bought a pack of new, high temperature crimp terminals at the appliance parts store, stripped the wires, and crimped the terminals on.
The original crimp terminals were right-angle. The new crimp terminals are straight. I didn't have a specialized tool for right-angle crimps. The straight crimps worked fine.
Just make sure there's plenty of clearance between the rear cover and the wires coming off the crimps to the Calrod.
Broil element now works great.
By the way, other ranges I've worked on use screw-on terminals instead of press-fit spade terminals. Not sure if press-fit spade terminals hold up after many years of service.
Maybe if an emergency repair needs to be done, could try drilling a hole carefully through the assembled spade terminal and putting in a 4-40 screw to recover the contact without having to buy replacement terminals.

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I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL ACCUBAKE RANGE, THE OVEN AND BROILER DOES NOT WORK. CHANGED SPARK MODULE AND STILL DOESN'T WORK. ANY SOLUTIONS?????


There are four other things to check on the oven, you will have to run a test on the broiler element, oven thermostat, selector switch and the oven cycling relay.
To test the broiler element, To access the broil element located on the roof of the oven cavity, first open the oven and remove the oven racks. Remove the screws that secure the element to the oven, remove the holding brackets from the element and slide the element forward.
There is normally a small amount of excess wiring attached to the terminals on the element that allow a little room for maneuverability (you may have to tilt the element to get the terminals through the holes). Look for loose or disconnected wires and if there is no sign of burning; reconnect the wiring to the back of the terminal. If a terminal end is damaged, replace it with a terminal end designed specifically for oven use only.
To test the broil element, remove the wires from the broil element terminals by removing the screws from the terminal or pulling the wires off the broil element terminal. Remember to label the wires for reinstallation.
Visually check the entire element for signs of burn.
Test the broiler element for continuity. Using the ohmmeter, set the range scale on R x 1 and place the probes on the element terminals. There should be continuity, with readings ranging from 19 to 115 ohms, however readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and according to unit size and the wattage, be sure to check your manual for the manufacturer's specifications.
If there are any signs of element burning, or if there is no continuity, replace the element.
To test for a grounded broil element, place one probe on the element outer surface and the other on the element terminal as in the ground test for the baking element. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced. Be sure to test both terminals.
To test a dual broil element, remove the wires from their terminals. Using the ohmmeter, set the range on R x 1. Place the probes on terminals A and C to check for continuity, followed by terminals B and C. To test for a grounded element, place one probe on the element outer surface. With the other probe, touch terminal A, followed by B and then C. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced.
To install a new broil element, simply reverse the disassembly procedures and reassemble, being sure to follow the wiring diagram and install the wires to the correct terminals
To test the oven thermostat: Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
To test the selector switch: In order to gain access to the oven selector dial, first move the range away from the wall and remove the back cover panel by undoing the retaining screws. This will expose the back of the oven selector dial. Note: There are many styles of ranges. If this does not describe your range, refer to your owner's manual for instructions on gaining access to your oven selector dial. Now you can begin to test each pair of switch contacts for continuity with your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1, and touch one test lead to each terminal of the switch contacts to be tested. There will be several pairs of contacts, one pair for each setting (eg. broil, bake, etc.). Refer carefully to your wiring diagram (often placed on the inside of the access panel) when testing. It is a good idea to label the wires as you test and only remove one pair of wires at a time. If there is no continuity between any pair of contacts, the switch is defective and must be replaced. To install a new oven selector dial switch, remove the old switch from the control panel by undoing the nut or screws holding the switch in place, leaving all wires attached. Transfer the wires one at a time from the old switch to the correct terminal of the new switch. Check your wiring diagram to make sure all wires are on the correct terminals. Now mount the new switch to the back of the control panel and replace the cover.
To test the oven cycling relay: In order to gain access to the oven cycling relay, refer to your owner's manual. Removing the back panel of the range accesses most relays, but some ranges locate the relay under the oven compartment where the utility drawer is usually located. Now you can test the relay using your VOM. First, label each wire attached to the relay and remove them from the relay terminals. Using your VOM's ohmmeter function, set the range to R x 1 and touch one test lead to the terminal marked L and the other test lead to terminal H2. There should be NO continuity. Next, test the terminals marked H1 and H2. Again, there should be NO continuity. Finally, test the S and R terminals. Continuity should exist between these two terminals. If your relay does not pass all these tests, it is defective and should be replaced. To remove the relay, undo the two screws securing it to the range and replace with the correct new relay. Refer to your wiring diagram and labeled wires to ensure that the wires are on the correct terminals. Now replace the back panel or drawer and test the oven.
Hope this was helpful to you. Thanks for using fixya.

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1 Answer

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Sorry, I don't have a service manual, but I can give you the general procedure for removing the bottom element (replacing is the reverse procedure).
  1. Unplug the oven
  2. Pull it away from the wall far enough so you can work behind it see what you are doing.
  3. Remove the screws from the back panel behind the oven. Sometimes there are additional plates, covers or baffles that need to be removed to let the back come off. Make notes as you go if you are concerned you may not be able to keep track of everything for reassembly. This is the hardest part of the job.
  4. Take a peek inside the oven at the back where the element attaches to the wall. If there are screws holding the element there, remove them. You will be looking for the corresponding location behind the oven in the next step.
  5. Identify the two wires going to the oven heating element terminals. They are almost always attached to the element with screws, but a few may use push-on terminals. Disconnect these wires. If push-on terminals are used, do not pull them off by pulling on the wires; grasp the terminals themselves and pull while holding the element terminals with needle-nose pliers. If necessary, polish or replace any burned terminal connectors.
  6. Remove the old element and do any needed cleanup inside the oven.
  7. Set the new element in place and reverse steps 5-1.
Almost all electric ranges have a wiring diagram somewhere in the back, sometimes on the inside of the back cover. If you find it, look for the item marked "oven heating element" or a similar name (not broiler or upper oven element, of course). There should be abbreviations next to it for the colors of the wires, with the solid color listed first followed by the stripe color (e. g., RED/GRY for a red wire with a grey stripe). This will help you confirm that you have the correct wires (it is unlikely that there will be anything else in that area of the oven except the connector for the power cord). If you get mixed up about which wire goes to which terminal on the element, don't worry, it works the same either way in this case.

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I have a Maytag MER5770AAW replacin element



We provide free diagnostic information when you tell us what brand and model number you are having issues with.
We are available from 7 AM – 7 PM CST. We also provide part removal/installation instructions for our customers when parts are purchased through us.
It is our goal to get you back up and running again ASAP, so please contact us when you need us to help you.
We look forward to hearing you and hope that you have a terrific day. Thank you, Ella
http://www.fixya.com/repair/d499389-accurate_appliance_repair_service

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I have a Frigidaire self cleaning electric oven. I heard a two pops and this tripped the circuit breaker. I can't reset the circuit breaker because the pops occur again and trip the breaker again. Any...


Sounds like a shorted wire or something grounding.
Slide out range and unplug and take off bake and look around for a short either at the bake or broil element ot at the terminal where the cord connects.

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1 Answer

Baking element


oh bleep, right? well, if you're lucky this will get you going again. 1. disconnect power to range. 2. remove back metal cover just above range power cord (usually 5 quarter inch hex screws) 3. look for burnt off wire leading to/from bake element. If yes, 4. strip ends of broken wire and splice with ceramic wire nut if no 4. bad news. replace ERC (electronic range control) you fried something on the board. It's got the clock display and all the electronics behind it.

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3 Answers

Avanti er24aw1


Call avantiproducts.com sales (service didn't work) and get a replacement bake element. It was about $35 including shipping. Download the manual from the site and study the structure. Uncover the back cover using standard phillips screw. TO DO THIS, SHUT DOWN YOUR HOME BREAKER AND MAKE SURE THE OVEN OPERATION LUMP DOES NOT LIGHT. OTHERWISE YOU WILL BE EXPOSED TO HIGH VOLTAGE. Additionaly use multimeter to make sure the voltage is not there. Remove back inner cover. You can't remove this inner cover completely because of the thermostat line but try to make a work space in the lower part of the oven. The bottom element cover can be uncovered readily without any screw or pin. At this point you have access to baking element from the bottom of the oven. Loosen two nuts to remove the bad element. Reverse the procedure to install the new element.

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1 Answer

Problem w/burners & lights after self clean


You may want to re-seat the right two cooking elements, in case there is poor electrical contact. When you have them removed, clean the contacts with denatured 91% alcohol and a Q-tip. The removal procedure follows.
First, unplug the range.
LIFT–UP PORCELAIN COOKTOP 
To lift:  When cool, grasp the cooktop front 
edge.  Gently lift up until the two support rods 
snap into place. 
To lower:  Hold the cooktop front edge and 
carefully push back on each support rod to 
release.  Then lower the top into place. 
COIL ELEMENTS 
➢When an element is on, it will cycle on 
and off to maintain the heat setting. 
➢Coil elements are self-cleaning. Do not 
immerse in water. 
To remove:  When cool, raise element.  Carefully pull out and away from receptacle. 
Check them for damage. They do wear out.
To replace:  Insert element terminals into receptacle.  Guide the element into place. Press down on the outer edge of element until it sits level on drip bowl. 
COIL ELEMENT SURFACE 
➢ On Canadian models, the two front elements will not operate during self-clean.To prevent the risk of electric shock or fire, never line drip bowls with aluminum foil.


If that does work, you may have a faulty control panel. In that case, call Maytag at the number below. 

Maytag Customer Service
533 Benson Road
Benton Harbor,MI 49022 

(800)688-9900 U.S.
(800)688-2002 Canada 

Dec 03, 2007 | Maytag MER6772 Gemini Electric Kitchen...

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