Question about Kitchen Ranges
I unplugged the stove and then replugged it back in. oven and buttons do not work however the stove top elements work but the F1 code reapears
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
We had those same symptoms with our range out of the box. It was a problem with the PC board and it was fixed under warranty.
Posted on May 28, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore electric range
You need a new mother-board.
I had the same issue, it overheated my kitchen in a matter of minutes. If I didn't turn off the circuit-breaker, I probably would have had a fire - the heat being emitted was intense. The cost is running around $300. with tax and delivery. I'm not sure if I want to repair or purchase a new oven.
Posted on Sep 25, 2008
The manual to this oven is here: http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%203196274.pdf
That should fix almost any problem you have
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
On ranges where the electronic control and keypad are permanently attached to each other (ie. not separately replaceable) like on your range, a faulty oven sensor or problem in the sensor's wiring circuit can cause that error code on some models.
Most oven sensors used these days should read about 1100 ohms when at room temperature.
Here are some juicy pearls of appliantology wisdom from our friends at Maytag for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here’s a simple explanation of what’s going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (1.e., not cooking) mode or
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor gotsta be within spec or it will cause the F1 code. As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode. This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven. The resistance isn’t high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit). The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms. The fault code is generated when this doesn’t happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness, harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad. If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously. If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle), remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes, then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner. The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied, the surface material can break down causing shorts. If you’re gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel –don’t spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
Most likely culprit: Temp Sensor
That cylindrical object is the sensor. It's two wires connect to the ERC. You can remove those wires from the ERC and test the resistance with an OhmMeter.
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Posted on May 07, 2009
Did this solve the problem I have the same problem
The surface burner light goes on but the burners only get
Posted on Nov 12, 2009
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